gadget Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 I've just replaced my leaky clutch master, and replaced the slave whilst i was at it. The original land rover fitted master and slave were AP branded. I've replaced with AP master and TRW slave, using the original push rod. Since the change i've got the same amount of free play as before (I've always though it was too much but that's by the by) but the bite point is now much lower than it was prior. Pedal feels fine, travel is normal and the clutch is fully disengaging. Just a sanity check query to see if you expect this kind of change after a cylinder swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 I know that my experience with many cars (not just LRs) is that when you change something, you think it is different, but if there isn't any clear way of proving where it was previously (i.e. by having measured it) your brain can play tricks on you. So after a while you wonder if it is really different or did I not remember the original properly! There are some exceptions, but it may not be as different as you think? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 6 minutes ago, Puffernutter said: There are some exceptions, but it may not be as different as you think? True, i can't tell you by how much it has changed. It's entirely possible that the difference is miniscule and i'm interpreting it as a large change. I'm sure it would feel normal after a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawl12 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Is it possible you've still got some air left in the system after bleeding? That would give the same symptom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 It is certainly possible that there is still air in the system, but i think it's unlikely. The last time i had to deal with the clutch hydraulics i learned that having the nose up and waiting a little to let the air collect at the top of the slave were sufficient to purge air. I'm going to bleed it again shortly though just to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 Is the toe board clearance set up correctly since you reinstalled the master? The procedure should be in RAVE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 New components so will definitely be a bit different if you think the old ones where worn/bypassing a bitty. I'd go through the procedure of re-setting the pedal clearance etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 When i swapped the master i didn't see any obvious method of adjustment. Workshop manual doesn't appear to mention pedal adjustment. The manual has: 1. Top up reservoir. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle. 3. Connect tube to bleed screw on clutch slave cylinder and submerge free end in a clear container containing brake fluid. 4. Loosen bleed screw, then apply steady pressure to the clutch pedal, depressing it through its full stroke. Allow the pedal to return unassisted. 5. Repeat the procedure until a flow of clean, air- free fluid is purged into the container. 6. Hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the clutch bleed screw to 9 Nm (7 lbf.ft). 7. Check and top up reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.