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Clutch bite changed since cylinders changed?

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I've just replaced my leaky clutch master, and replaced the slave whilst i was at it.
The original land rover fitted master and slave were AP branded. I've replaced with AP master and TRW slave, using the original push rod.

Since the change i've got the same amount of free play as before (I've always though it was too much but that's by the by) but the bite point is now much lower than it was prior.
Pedal feels fine, travel is normal and the clutch is fully disengaging.

Just a sanity check query to see if you expect this kind of change after a cylinder swap?

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I know that my experience with many cars (not just LRs) is that when you change something, you think it is different, but if there isn't any clear way of proving where it was previously (i.e. by having measured it) your brain can play tricks on you.  So after a while you wonder if it is really different or did I not remember the original properly!

There are some exceptions, but it may not be as different as you think?

Cheers

Peter

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6 minutes ago, Puffernutter said:

There are some exceptions, but it may not be as different as you think?

True, i can't tell you by how much it has changed. It's entirely possible that the difference is miniscule and i'm interpreting it as a large change.

I'm sure it would feel normal after a week or so.

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Is it possible you've still got some air left in the system after bleeding? 

That would give the same symptom. 

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It is certainly possible that there is still air in the system, but i think it's unlikely.
The last time i had to deal with the clutch hydraulics i learned that having the nose up and waiting a little to let the air collect at the top of the slave were sufficient to purge air.

I'm going to bleed it again shortly though just to be sure.

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Is the toe board clearance set up correctly since you reinstalled the master?  The procedure should be in RAVE.

 

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New components so will definitely be a bit different if you think the old ones where worn/bypassing a bitty. I'd go through the procedure of re-setting the pedal clearance etc.

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When i swapped the master i didn't see any obvious method of adjustment.

Workshop manual doesn't appear to mention pedal adjustment. The manual has:

1. Top up reservoir.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle.
3. Connect tube to bleed screw on clutch slave
cylinder and submerge free end in a clear
container containing brake fluid.
4. Loosen bleed screw, then apply steady
pressure to the clutch pedal, depressing it
through its full stroke. Allow the pedal to return
unassisted.
5. Repeat the procedure until a flow of clean, air-
free fluid is purged into the container.
6. Hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the
clutch bleed screw to 9 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
7. Check and top up reservoir.

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