DC_ Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Afternoon guys, so after a tinker and a check I discovered the rear right hand side of my crossmember is very bad. It’s solid everywhere else apart from this section. What would be the best option to repair? Can you buy sections? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 I would replace the whole thing. The other sections will only be a couple of years behind. To replace that section is 25% of the whole thing. You could fabricate something to go just in that bit but it'd probably take longer than replacing the whole crossmember. I've not seen any part-crossmember sections premade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 As said above - replace the rear 1/4 and be done with.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 The rest of it is in very good nick, not sure if my budget this year would stretch to a full replacement but something I’ll ponder for next year. Is it an easy enough job? Went here ver to my mates for another opinion too, I think a bit of fabricating for now is the way to go...... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR-HIPPO Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 (edited) OK, so if a new section is not an option, from the rot in your pictures, I think lopping the complete corner section off and starting again would be the path of least resistance. If I wanted to get that corner through a few more MOTs without throwing cash at it, and doing all the work myself, I would: Unbolt and remove the lifting eye. Unbolt the body mount. Cut the whole rotten corner section of the crossmember off, flush with the chassis rail. Clean up and if necessary repair the last few inches of chassis rail where the old corner section was removed. From a bit of sheet steel, fold the shape of the rear face, and bottom edges of the removed section. Cut a length of 2 1/2 inch ish box section the same length as the top edge of the removed section. Weld one end of the box section to the cleaned up end of the chassis rail, so that in sits where the original top edge of the removed section used to sit. Weld the new folded sheet rear face / bottom edges section on to the back of the box section, and to the end of the chassis rail / remaining, rear face of the crossmember. (weld the top and bottom corners of the box section to the sheet steel) The new section should now be the same shape (viewed from behind the vehicle) as the removed section. Cut the removed rusty chassis section away from the body mount, and bolt the mount back on to the tub, then weld it on to the rear face of the new section of crossmember. From the rear the repair should now look like the original section, but without the jacking point and various bolt holes. I am not saying that this is the correct / only / best way to repair this, I am just presenting it as an option, and as an example of something that I would consider doing myself. Hope this helps, Hippo. Edited May 7, 2019 by MR-HIPPO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Just some extra info. for you... https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102716-rear-chassis-cross-member-replacement-from-where/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-929188 Cost for removing, welding in place, wiring, waxoiling inside and out €400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 Thanks guys, I’ll have a read over things when I’m in from work. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Definitely make a good assessment before commiting time and/or finance. I spent a day doing a repair to the rear crossmember on my 90 only to find terminal rust on the main chassis rails around the A-frame crossmember mounts. I ended up swapping the chassis. Mine had had a replacement rear crossmember already however, so the chassis was further gone by comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 The Chassis seems to be in good condition, I’m always having a tinker and checking on things. This weekend weather permitting I’ll get under and have a real good look. So far doing a section repair is winning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 So the rest of it is looking OK, other side will be getting a good rub down too but it ain’t no where near as bad..... just to weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 That crossmember could be replaced properly as the rest of the chassis is good. By properly I mean just replacing the crossmember exactly as it was built without extensions which in my view are a bit of a bodge - it’s a bit more work but the bare crossmember is cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 Third pic down at the bottom looks a bit crusty on that chassis leg, might be worth a poke around to see what more comes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 Chassis good, all scrubbed down and freshly coated in oxide. It’s a fix for now and if it gets any worse then new crossmember it’ll need to be at some point. 😊👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 Wee update on the repairs...... crossmember is now fully solid, took the NATO hitch off today along with the electrics tow connector. Surface rust only, all grinded down and coated in red oxide for now. No wonder these things rust, to try gain access to the back section is a mare !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 9, 2019 Share Posted June 9, 2019 Note that red oxide is just a primer (and not a very good one compared to modern paints) which needs a top coat to stop moisture getting through and rusting the metal underneath.... Slap some chassis black on it and it will last much, much longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 12 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Note that red oxide is just a primer (and not a very good one compared to modern paints) which needs a top coat to stop moisture getting through and rusting the metal underneath.... Slap some chassis black on it and it will last much, much longer Three coats on so far Bowie and I’ll get some chassis black to top it off 😊👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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