L19MUD Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 I have a 300tdi in a Defender challenge truck that has not been used for quite some time. When I originally tried to get it running (after bleeding up) I had a problem with it running flat out which appeared to have been the governor sticking in the pump. After repeated starts and gentle tapping of the pump I managed to get her running normally and easily from the first turn of the key. Fast forward a few weeks of total inactivity and I now have a starting problem where it appears that fuel is running back. I can easily bleed back up to the fuel filter using the lift pump but then it takes and age to get fuel coming out of the injector pipes. The spill pipes were all totally shot and the normal cause of this so I replaced those, I have inspected all of the pipes in the engine bay (but not yet at the tank) and all seem good. Once I manage to start her up after much cranking it runs fine and seems to have normal power (no rad fitted at the moment so can't run for long). As soon as I turn it off it will then be just as difficult to start as the first time, just seconds after stopping. How is fuel running back so quickly without any obvious sign of a leak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 I've had similar caused by anything from a rusty porous pick up pipe, chaffed lines, leaking diaphragm in lift pump, leaking joints on filter housing, porous filter housing, bad leak off pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) I've also had similar on my 200Tdi. Mine sat on my drive for a couple of years and I would start it and run it every couple of months or so. I used to crack the injector pipes off to bleed it but it seemed very random as to whether it would start or not. In the end I replaced the stop solenoid on the pump, it was working intermittently. No problems after that. Edited May 14, 2019 by markyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 1 hour ago, Eightpot said: I've had similar caused by anything from a rusty porous pick up pipe, chaffed lines, leaking diaphragm in lift pump, leaking joints on filter housing, porous filter housing, bad leak off pipes. leaking joints on filter housing, porous filter housing, bad leak off pipes. - I have checked/resolved all of these rusty porous pick up pipe, chaffed lines, leaking diaphragm in lift pump, - I will go through these next. Lift pump seems unlikely as it pumps really well when bleeding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 1 hour ago, markyboy said: I've also had similar on my 200Tdi. Mine sat on my drive for a couple of years and I would start it and run it every couple of months or so. I used to crack the injector pipes off to bleed it but it seemed very random as to whether it would start or not. In the end I replaced the stop solenoid on the pump, it was working intermittently. No problems after that. I think you may be onto something here. To not start immediately after running fine points more to a hard fault like a stuck solenoid as opposed to an air leak, They are cheap and easy to change so I will start there Pity it is an auto otherwise I could pull the plunger out and test it and then just stall it in gear. Suppose I could stall it by blocking the air intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 If you have the concealed imobilised solenoid you should be able to check the solenoid just by turning the ignition on/off- or get an assistant to do it while you listen. If its an earlier simple solenoid with spade connector just unplug and reconnect a couple of times with ignition on. If it isnt clicking, it isnt moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 On 5/14/2019 at 5:00 PM, Eightpot said: If its an earlier simple solenoid with spade connector just unplug and reconnect a couple of times with ignition on. If it isnt clicking, it isnt moving. Didn't think of this - tried it and its clearly operating as you provide and remove power to it This has not been a priority this week so further investigation will have to wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 21 minutes ago, L19MUD said: Didn't think of this - tried it and its clearly operating as you provide and remove power to it This has not been a priority this week so further investigation will have to wait Just a caveat, my solenoid would click, but the plunger could not have been operating normally as it still wouldn't start. I'm not saying yours isn't working, a click would usually suggest it is, but mine was clicking but still not working. Go figure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 7 hours ago, markyboy said: Just a caveat, my solenoid would click, but the plunger could not have been operating normally as it still wouldn't start. I'm not saying yours isn't working, a click would usually suggest it is, but mine was clicking but still not working. Go figure? given the low cost and ease of changing I may just swap it then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Could be theres some crud in there stopping it closing fully, worth taking it off for a look and clean at least. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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