EDIS 8 and all that?

[HoSS]

BTW - bit of inside info. A relation of mine is service manager at a Ford dealer.

Hw told me that early model coil packs have a much higher failure rate than later. Told me its much better to source them from a zetec model.

chris- you mention 'product range' do you have a buisiness in the EDIs stuff?

[Chris Good]

BTW - bit of inside info. A relation of mine is service manager at a Ford dealer.

Hw told me that early model coil packs have a much higher failure rate than later. Told me its much better to source them from a zetec model.

That's the reverse of what I've seen in the many hundreds that passed through here. On the zetecs the plastic splits next to one of the bolt holes, I'm not sure why but it only ever happens on the zetec powered mondeos. The cracks aren't always apparent until you've cleaned up the coils and as a result of this we generate a large pile of otherwise fully functional coil packs that go in the bin Coil packs from other models are generally fine.

chris- you mention 'product range' do you have a buisiness in the EDIs stuff?

www.trigger-wheels.com is us. We're adding new products all the time, the RV8 specific wheels are one of the most recent, the next planned tranche of products will be coil pack brackets for both single and twin coils, a range of sensor brackets (hopefully including an RV8 specific one) and some special trigger wheels for use with traction control systems.

People are always asking us about V6 systems, which up until now we've not really had a good solution for, within the next 7-10 days we'll have EDIS-6 systems available. For the other new products I'm not going to do anything rash and give any timescales but if people want to suggest what they're most in need of then I'll endeavour to put that to the top of the pile.

Chris

[geoffbeaumont]

I thought exactly the same thing! The Gen 1 coil packs & boots look very well sealed but I thought about pressurised water from the viscous fan when wading. After much pondering and not wanting to put any mounts through the plenum, I drilled and tapped holes into the bulkhead made angled brackets for the coil packs & capacitor (a huge thing I got from Maplins) to sit in so they are just behind the plenum. Downside is I need slightly longer leads so will ask Magnecor to do a custom set.

Mine are mounted on the side of the plenum, which doesn't involve drilling any holes (although if I did this again I'd make the top eyes bigger and mill the plenum out to fit them, as it'd be more robust):

[HoSS]

That's the reverse of what I've seen in the many hundreds that passed through here.

www.trigger-wheels.com is us.

Chris

ahh perhaps i wasnt listening properly

and, ok I bought my trigger wheel from you then. (had to machine centre out)

[edit] to be clear about last comment, i bought a 1/2" centre version & machined to fit. not the new RV8 version.

[landy_andy]

Hi,

Have started making my wiring loom up tonight, for the VR sensor I'd suggest that you don't bother with an old plug but start with a new one. I get all my parts from Vehicle Wiring Products (as there only a 20min drive away) but others stock the Junior Power Timer housings and terminals etc. and also get a new length of sheilded cable from Chris. For mine I've made the ends off using 'W' style crimpers and soldered for good measure, as well as, fitting the correct size of silicon wire seal when crimping the insulation.

Next I used some hotmelt heatshrink that fitted over the end of the housing that normally retains the rubber boot. Shrinking about a 30mm length onto this end and the sheeth of the cable forms a good strain relief as your not relying on the two wires alone. Finally I used the actual rubber boot to hold the end of the convoluted oversleeve I use in place.

Also, I'd suggest that if you can find some decent coil pack plugs with tails that arn't chemical hardened by the plug you don't take them to pieces but splice on with good soldered joints that are sleeved with hotmelt heatshrink. There's no reason to disturb machine crimped terminals that will be alot better made off than you can do with most 'hobby' crimpers.

Here's a pic of the finished job.

Hope this helps,

Andy

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Chris,

The stuff arrived this morning ................ thanks .......... thats excellent service.

Just a few brackets to make now ..........

Ian

[landy_andy]

Here are a couple of pics of the wiring looms before testing and final loom tape application. The 4 single wires (green & yellow) in the middle of the first picture are for the diode circuit that gives the Lucas ECU it's tach signal from the coils -ve side. The second loom is just a temporary one to connect power & signals to the MJJL control box until I get my MS box built. The kit arrived yesterday so I have alot more soldering to do.

Cheers,

Andy

Updated... made the tach drive cct up on some stripboard that will get sleeved in hotmelt heat shrink. Once my MS install is complete & running I can then cut this off as it'll not be needed anymore unless I fit a tacho that is. Off to test fit & see if it al runs.

Updated again... runs sweet just need to tidy all the wiring, get the brackets zinc plated and upload a correct map into the MJJL.

Next onto the MS build & install

And if anyones going to Donnington Show in 2 weeks time my truck will be on display on the QT stand with all this fitted.... hopefully

Anyone got a 3.9 setup file for the MJJL control box ?

[FridgeFreezer]

This one's mainly for Nige (hence the marginally lowered production values ) but may prove handy for others:

To 'splain it the setup is as follows:

Rover V8

Based on Flapper loom colours

Using high impedance (3.9 / 4.6, p/n ERR722) injectors so no resistor pack

Using Ford EDIS-8 for ignition

Using a stepper idle valve from a Hotwire (yuk) but don't wire it if you'e not using it - the Flapper idle valve is far simpler and just needs +12v from the fuel pump relay.

Getting rid of all the carp Rover put in their looms

I'm sure it's not the perfect setup but it's simple and should work fine. The fuse ratings I have been slack and not calculated them yet

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Nige

[landy_andy]

Hi Fridge,

Whats the best way to handle to start inhibit input from my auto box, would like to really get rid of it but I'm reliably informed that it'll be tested when I emigrate to Canada as it's part of their 'MOT' test.

Nice wiring loom btw.... and to save even more money why not do all in red & black....

Cheers,

Andy

[FridgeFreezer]

Andy,

As long as it doesn't start in gear I doubt* it matters how it works. Rover do have an inhibit on the EFi but I'd leave it out and just make the switch prevent the starter solenoid from working or similar.

* = But I'm not certain what the regulations are.

[landy_andy]

Andy,

As long as it doesn't start in gear I doubt* it matters how it works. Rover do have an inhibit on the EFi but I'd leave it out and just make the switch prevent the starter solenoid from working or similar.

* = But I'm not certain what the regulations are.

Did think about that but was after a 'software' switchable option... other need was 'idle up' for when my air compressor (air-con pump) is running..... to stop the engine bogging down..... or will smart idle do this for me ?

Cheers,

Andy

[FridgeFreezer]

Software switchable how exactly? There's not exactly much to the start inhibit circuit, a single switch would over-ride it, no software needed.

I've not played with smart idle but yes it sounds like it should do what you want.

[landy_andy]

Hi all,

Here's a pic of my completed coil pack install and wiring etc. I had to get a couple of new leads (6 & 8) as they were a bit on the short side. The coil packs sit a little further forwards than Nige's as the water pipes on a3.9 are in the way. Apart from that it runs & I just need to get the spark map sorted for the weekend.

Cheers for the help....

Andy

[jwriyadh]

"idle-up for air-con pump"

Why not use the idle-bypass solenoid that LR used when fitting air-con to a flapper RRC? The raised idle speed obtained could be adjusted by restricting airflow through the device.

This would confict with any idle controller, either stepper or PWM if you are using them but not affect the flapper type extra air valve.

What is "smart idle"?

jw

[landy_andy]

Hi JW,

'Smart idle' is closed loop idle control as supported in the MS1-Extra code version. Since I'll be using a PWM controlled idle valve then using a idle by-pass solenoid isn't really an option. Ideally what I need is a way to get a programmable fast idle that can be used for my air compressor and when I'm using my winch.

On another note, I have my EDIS all installed, thanks Jon W for the map, it runs great & just need some fine tuning now. Next to start making my new loom for the MS install.... does it ever end ???

If anyones at the Donnington show this Sunday, come along to the Qt stand and you can have a look at the install.

Cheers,

Andy

[landybehr]

Hi there,

very good info - came just in the right time for me.

Slight problem I have is to connect the VR sensor correctly.

It has two wires so is a fair 50/50 chance

Ok, I´ve read about letting some iron snap onto the sensor and measuring the thus generated burst of voltage.

But I´m shy and fear I´d struggle with my voltmeter ..

Can you recall which wire goes where on the EDIS-8 pins ??

Thanks,

Hendrik

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Hendrik,

Fridgefreezer would normally be straight in here with the answer, but i think he is just a bit busy and tired at the moment

VR Sensor ……….

you can find the full text here…….http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ba...anual.htm#desvr

EDIS Wiring…………

Have a look here http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ig...Manual.htm#edis

Hope this helps........

Ian

[geoffbeaumont]

The snap to metal method is dead easy - just do that

I can't remember which way it should go, so you'll have to look that up, but it's a very clear swing. No subtle interpretation involved.

Even if you do somehow manage to get it wrong you just swop the wires round and it's sorted - won't do any harm.

[evo828]

need advice on the trigger wheel mounting. The original pulley looked like this:

Now when I put the trigger wheel with a 5mm spacer it looks like this:

I do not like the big gap that is now exposing the seal - so I am thinking of removing the 5mm spacer and trying to fit the trigger wheel right close to the balancer and also fit the "mud protection" as seen on the original - it will probably fit. The question is - will the sensor be abl to read the trigger wheeol properly if it will be line with the thick iron balancer? Any suggestion how to do it better?

[Chris Good]

You can run the wheel hard up against the damper and the sensor will read it just fine.

[evo828]

chris thanks. Now it is like this - but on the place marked with red it is touching the front bell housing - any suggestion on this?

another question regarding the sensor - can it be also mounted rotated like this the conector not pointing up but rather backwards?

[ThreeSheds]

another question regarding the sensor - can it be also mounted rotated like this the conector not pointing up but rather backwards?

The way it is in the photo will be fine - the angle that the connector is at is of no importance, just that the end of the VR pickup is flush and central on the teeth of the wheel.

Can't comment on your other problem - I used a different setup and didn't face that problem.

Rog

[evo828]

thanks for the sensor confirmation.

Regarding the "mud protection" touching the front cover - I will try to turn it slowly to see how much drags - if I have to remove some material from the mud protector - how big the gap should be at minimum - would lets say 0.5mm be enough (engine warming - size changing etc)

[steve_d]

If you try removing material from the mud ring it could go out of balance unless you are doing it on a lathe. I would relieve some ali from the housing which will be much easier. Start with 0.5mm, if it is not enough the engine will 'machine' the required amount.

To help others on this issue I am, this evening, completing my trigger wheel build but using the Ford Transit trigger wheel which is pressed steel about 2mm thick. Not only does in make instal easier because it is thin you get the benefit of it only being about £17.

Steve