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Fingers Crossed I Didn't Blow The Motor (300Tdi)


tuko

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It's been ages since I've posted on the forum but I have to admit that the landy has been running great and been serving use well. Until today.  😮

Today I made a run into town (30Km one way) and noticed that the landy was smoking (black smoke) a bit more than normal on the highway and once I was in town it began to develop a rough idle that literally shook the truck. Once I was finished in town and was on my way home the landy "really" began to produce some serious black smoke. It got to the point on the highway that I couldn't keep my foot into the pedal because of all of the smoke and it began to loss power. I did roll a few hundred meters down to the highway to a byway and parked the landy, shutting off the engine immediately. 

Parked up I call a mechanic friend and he asked me to try to start the engine.......The White smoke was blinding, it was billowing out so much and there was a knock in the engine. I didn't have the engine on more than a few seconds and I turned it off immediately. - I have to add that at no time did the engine temp go over normal on the gauge. 

Ok, I was stressed out with this problem with the landy that I couldn't sort it out where I was as it was raining, I was on my home to get ready to go to work plus it was parked up on a highway that is notorious for punks to smash out windows and bash every body panel on cars that unfortunately have to park there for one reason or another. Luckily my oldest was driving by after work so we did some midnight recovery and the landy is safely home in the garden. 

So at this point I have several things running through my head, is there a collapsed turbo hose? Is the less than 1 year old timing belt shot? Maybe the head gasket is shot or in the worst case there is a crack in the head. All I'll be investigating in the morning. 

But in the mean time I'm looking for suggestions, maybe this happened to someone here before?
Whats the best way to attempt to start the engine again? Do I remove the injectors or is the glow plugs enough to blow out any fuel that is sitting in the cylinders? 

 

Todd.

 

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Today I began removing parts from the engine and the one thing that has stuck out the most so far is the oil by passing the oil catch can then going into the induction system. The hose to the turbo and after the turbo are full of oil. I guess that Chinese oil catch can that I bought is NOT all that it's advertised. Should have known better. 😂

The cyclone breather is also full of oil and it's hoses. I removed all hoses that are related to crankcase breathing and cleaned them thoroughly but I can add that none were blocked. IMG_20190518_113115.jpg.2893a5c80dd90e4bd61da7fb7480737c.jpg

 

So afterwards I removed the glow plugs and to my surprise both # 3 & 4 had excessive amounts of carbon buildup on them, with #3 being a ripe bugger to remove. 

IMG_20190518_121228.jpg.18a875910238d4cf19f27917eafa3851.jpg

So with the glow plugs removed I cranked the motor over and she turned over without any issues or unusual noises from the valves or anything like that. There was blow by from cylinder #1 only. 

At this point I'm unsure what to do next, did I actually find the problem with the excessive black smoke? But at the same time it doesn't answer why the engine stopped yesterday....or does it?

 

Todd. 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

2 Glow plugs look too clean. Any coolant loss? 

no coolant loss other than the normal approx. 10mm per year in the expansion tank. 

To add to your comment, I dug out the old glow plugs that I replaced 3 years ago, they are clean with only slight carbon on the tips. None of them looked anything like those in # 3 & 4. 

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I'm getting closer to solving this mystery. I got the engine to start today without any drama, I mean no motor knock like yesterday. BUT the crankcase smoke is way beyond what it should be. I'll upload a short vid on youtube later. 

Also on closer inspection of the air filter canister, hoses to and from the turbo there is not just a film of oil but I mean running oil on everything. Then the turbo, it's actually full of oil that it's basically blowing back into the engine. 

IMG_20190518_155616.jpg.971961a191d8b2531739aa89ba4134fb.jpg

 

IMG_20190518_155117.jpg.e9ab47c8cdcf2aea2f59a4ad220c5143.jpg

 

I suspect this is going to be a bigger job than I thought if it's rings that are shot. Too bad that I don't have a compression test tool. ......Or could it be something else?

 

Todd. 

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That is a lot of oil. While rings is possible it could just as easily be a headgasket blown to an oilway which would overpressurise the crankcase.

Either way the head's got to come off to find out so do that and hopefully some light will be shed on the issue.

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5 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

That is a lot of oil. While rings is possible it could just as easily be a headgasket blown to an oilway which would overpressurise the crankcase.

Either way the head's got to come off to find out so do that and hopefully some light will be shed on the issue.

Didn't think of that to be honest, been thinking the worst the entire time outside today but I do agree, the head's coming off. 

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Yep , that is the Head gasket I would say , it's not running on all 4 evenly too - another sign . Get it checked for flatness and cracks while it's off and new genuine headbolts on re=assembly .

cheers

Steve b

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35 minutes ago, steve b said:

Yep , that is the Head gasket I would say , it's not running on all 4 evenly too - another sign . Get it checked for flatness and cracks while it's off and new genuine headbolts on re=assembly .

cheers

Steve b

I thought it was just td5 that you changed the head bolts ?? 

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Bad news Todd, I'd be inclined to think head gasket blowing into an oil way too. Land Rover say you can use the head bolts 5 times IIRC but for the sake of 20 quid I bought a new set since I didn't know the history of mine.

Still, look on the bright side, your oil filter box isn't going to rust on the inside 😉

Mo 

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Thanks guys, I've done some searching here and you guys have echoed what has been said before about the bolts, I will be doing as you said. 😉

If the rain stops long enough tomorrow I will be removing the head and cleaning the oil out of everything except the air filter canister....wouldn't want that to rust on me. LOL 

Todd.

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Ok when I removed the head one thing that I did notice that was unusual, the exhaust valve to #4 cylinder has this collapsible washer

 IMG_20190519_120914.jpg.580fa5339d98f662822f9d845075ca5f.jpg

 

IMG_20190519_120925.jpg.cc02b820426d4b338e24fd7c8776e2fa.jpg

 

None of the other valved has this washer nor did they have the caps ( err1158 ) Looking in two different manuals one has the valve caps and the other doesn't. SO.......do I install them or do I just ignore them as they weren't there? And No, I've never played around with the valves on my engine, the Discovery yes but not this vehicle. 

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@ Steve,

They all show wear but with that said only 3 actually had a "ridge" can we call it that could be felt with your finer nail. All the rest we smooth. 

IMG_20190519_161547.jpg.3196e6162c06668e719b35543ec3f994.jpg

 

IMG_20190519_161531.jpg.1d7b926f431fecb7b5f7ac2c4d3698d3.jpg

BTW, the "Defender 90" parts book  RTC9868CF, page 280, is the manual that does not show any caps. 

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I have no problems with adding caps, I did them on the wife's Discovery years ago. I've never seen them on this motor though and that item that I did find on the #4 exhaust valve is a collapsible washer. That is whats got me stumped, where the hell did it come from and why just the one? I bought this motor used 10 years ago and never noticed it before. 

......I've been googling this afternoon ( not good I know ) LOL I've been reading up on porting & polishing, may as well do it while I have everything apart. 😉

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