cackshifter Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Get the caps from Turner's, supposed to be better than others even genuine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 The head is at an engine shop in Kalmar where the guy's going to skim the head and pressure test for cracks. The injectors are off to Göteborg for servicing and plenty of orders placed yesterday. So I've been thinking since the head is off, why not port match the head and manifolds? There's a considerable difference from the gasket to both surfaces. I realise that Turner's offer a performance head, but I'm unable to find any side by side comparison of the 2 heads and I'm of the impression that the ports have been resized to match the manifolds. If that's the case then I can do that myself. On the other hand, does port matching on a 300tdi do anything, is it worth the effort? Will there be any ill affect from making the ports streamline, as an old mechanic I was talking to today suggested that some diesel engines need some resistance in it's ports to operate correctly. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Go for it, no harm to be done just doing port matching. Don't do much about around the valve, just smooth any roughness if do go in there. Then get a three angle valve seat job done and likely you will be very close if not in the same place as a Turner head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 I have done the matching you describe, I think it goes better, but then I would. I also smoothed the back of the valves, they have a huge seating surface most of which doesn't actually touch the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) I dropped off the head yesterday morning at 10:30, the shop ringed me at 14:30 and it was ready. 😃 damn does it every look nice. Once home I began inspecting the head and chambers. Typical my nature I guess I wasn't happy with the rough edges in the chambers so dug out the dremel and began grinding away. I have done enough reading to know that I don't have the knowledge of how much and where to remove metal in the chambers so knowing that I only focused my attention to the rough edges smoothing them to the touch. Once I was finished with that chamber it looked like this: With each chamber smoothed out to the touch I then began lapping the valves. I've seen guys on youtube using a drill but I'm going slow and easy with this so by hand is enough. Maybe tomorrow I'll start with the port matching. Todd. Edited May 22, 2019 by tuko 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Good to see you're having fun Todd 😁 Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Good on you! Sounds like it's all under control and should be sorted soon enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Looks a nice clean head-job! Before you fire it up again - take the intercooler out and give it a good rinsing with Kerosene to wash-out any oil deposits, then blow it dry with compressed-air [squirt the air into the intercooler-port that would normally feed the engine - so you're reverse-blowing it] for rather-longer-than-you-would-first-think-it-needs. You don't want the rebuilt engine to suddenly 'run-away' if it discovers a pint of sump-oil that's settled in the intercooler. [This happened to a mate's Golf TDi - and led to a second engine-rebuild!] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Tanuki, Thanks for the tips, I will do as instructed this weekend.😉 Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 It's been a waiting game the past week with the post and to my wonderful surprise the package from Autodoc with the Erling seals and gaskets came this week. Upon opening the package I was super impressed with the packaging, the head gasket was form bent to fit around other items and the manifold gasket was bent like a hockey stick to fit perfectly in a corner. Plus to their obvious superior knowledge of Land Rover engines, they correctly sent me 7 matching valve stem seals and another for good measure. Their fine customer service representative had to be convinced of their errors with several photos as proof then decided that they would give me my money back................ Wait a minute, what the h€ll is giving me my money back going to do for my engine???? Does it automatically repair itself???? Not in Sweden anyways.... Once again they had to be convinced that money doesn't repair my engine, replacement parts at no cost to me is far better solution to the situation at hand...... Jupp still playing the waiting game for parts. In the mean time I did assembly 7 valves. 😂😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 That's a bit of an arse ! Did you manage to get valve caps, Todd ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 I guess you won't be using them for more parts then, Cylinder head looks great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 On 5/30/2019 at 11:08 PM, Mo Murphy said: That's a bit of an arse ! Did you manage to get valve caps, Todd ? Mo Yes Sir, I didn't count how many were in the package, better check....... 😂😉 Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 It's always no.4 that goes on 300Tdi head gaskets, though normally straight aft rather than to an oilway. Good advice regarding removing and flushing the entire induction system - look at SimonCSK's experience with a replacement turbo on this forum to see why. FIngers crossed for the new parts, but at least you evidently retained your sense of humour over the first foulup! As for gas flowing the head, I had TE do that on my 300 rebuild (for my RRC). I seem to recall a claim of 11% performance increase or better fuel economy (one or the other, depending on how you drive). It seems plausible as the head apertures are considerably smaller than the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 28, 2019 Author Share Posted June 28, 2019 Life got in the way again, now I can add to this saga...... The week while I was arguing with AutoDoc for replacement parts I ported the head and manifolds. What surprised me was the diameter difference between the gasket and the ports. Plus that they were not exactly lined up with each other. With a black marker I had a clear indication of where to begin removing material, a time consuming job but at the end of the day all the ports were inline with the gasket. Eventually AutoDoc sent out the replacement parts which did get into Sweden rather fast from Germany BUT flipping PostNord that's another can of worms. The package was in a terminal 80km from the house where it sat for 5 days!!! No number of calling or emailing helped in persuading those buggers in sending my parcel with the auto parts. When they did arrive, within minutes the final valve seal was installed and the head was on it's way out to the motor. 😃 When it came to the head bolts, it was time consuming and a bit difficult to keep track of the bolts so I organized and then numbered the heads of the bolts for easy of reassembly. 😉 With the head on I followed the instructions given above about torquing the head bolts. I was surprised how loose they were after the first round of setting them at 40Nm but after 2 times I was ready to move on to setting the angle degree's. .....So I bought a angle dial tool that I thought I could save a penny on, which worked perfectly on the first 10 bolts but when I got to #11, the damn dial seized itself to the center section never to work properly again!! 🤬 Man I introduced that POS to the bottom of the garbage can at a very high velocity! 😂 Thankfully my son who lives in the big city was driving by the house that day so he bought me a proper tool that I should have bought int first place. So typical of Sweden, if your working on your car outside in the driveway, it's going to rain 50% of the time your working on it. Plus the fact that I work nights, I only managed to get a few hours a day but after 3 days it was complete and running. OK, so what did I do to the engine, replaced the head gasket, replaced the valve seals, planned the head, ported the head and manifolds, ultra wave washed the injectors, replaced the injector copper washers, replaced the glow plugs while I was at it, installed valve caps that the engine didn't have for some unknown reason and turned the injector pump down approx an 8th of a turn. Oh, also washed out the entire induction system of any left over engine oil. The final result is the engine is a totally different animal. My engine must have been on the down slope for some time cause it 1) sounds totally different, 2) it's more responsive, 3) feels much more willing to get into it and the turbo whistle is now more pronounced. It even starts easier. In 3rd and 4th, I can get into the go pedal and the hesitation is gone, the front just picks up then she's gone, even with the RTT and awning on the landy. Jupp as you may have guessed by now, I'm very happy. 😀 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Very good news, well done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Excellent news! It was a cry for help! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Or a whimpering of neglect! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Well done !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 28, 2019 Author Share Posted June 28, 2019 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: Or a whimpering of neglect! I resemble that remark. 😂😂😂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 The oil pressure warning light has began blinking after a good run with the landy, so I bought new parts (2 times) because suppliers sent ****part carp the first time, the second order finally original parts. Anyways, after draining the oil and removing the sump this is what was waiting to greet me. Those F'n valve stem caps! I know I mentioned it before that my engine didn't have them and following the advice I installed news caps but after only a few months this is where they are. 😥 They were Bearmach caps that I ordered, I can't believe that they are the quality as ****part but on the other hand they weren't original. So a thorough cleaning of everything, new oil pressure plunger, spring, screw, oil filter and oil, I'll just cross my fingers for the time being and run the engine till I have more time to dig deeper into the engine. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 This is well known issue. You must purchase hardened caps. They are really common for air cooled VW engines. 8mm hardened lash caps. If you don't want to go to a VW race shop for them, the ones Turner Engineering sells are good. Do NOT use genuine caps either. They are also complete carp.... https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/ljc100270-valve-cap-pkt-10-c2x20822963 Quote This valve cap is MWM International original equipment and the correct material hardness. (NOT current Land Rover caps which are incorrect material specification) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 3 hours ago, Red90 said: This is well known issue. You must purchase hardened caps. They are really common for air cooled VW engines. 8mm hardened lash caps. If you don't want to go to a VW race shop for them, the ones Turner Engineering sells are good. Do NOT use genuine caps either. They are also complete carp.... https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/ljc100270-valve-cap-pkt-10-c2x20822 John, my son has a '63 Beetle, I'll ask him to search for me. Thanks for the advice. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 What is strange is that this has been ongoing for quite a few years. It amazes me that the suppliers have not addressed the issue. You would think they would have a lot of complaints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.