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300tdi’s heating


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Evening fellas, having a little heating issue with my 300tdi, last weekend it started sitting just below the red no matter how I was driving so I whipped out the thermostat and checked it and as I thought it was knackered, so I purchased a new 78•c thermostat and fitted and seemed fine but a while later and it’s heating again. Iv pulled the thermostat as I’d left for a few days away camping and still it’s overheating without the thermostat in. I then realised my electric fan hadn’t been wired properly when the garage rebuilt that engine and installed it. No power to the x switch so ran a cable to the switch and it’s kept the heat under control unless I’m on a really long climb or driving hard then it’s almost into the red again. Iv ran out of ideas

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Fit the correct 88 degree thermostat & check for leaks, maybe a small leak at the heater matrix, also check the gauge is working OK & the gauge U clamp is not touching the gauge terminals as it can short the gauge to earth & give a false reading 

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Ok so after approx 300mls yesterday iv used no water but my oils went from max yesterday morning to dead on minimum today. Seems to be very damp around bottom of the head. Is it possible I may have a head or head gasket issue 

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4 minutes ago, mcc1979ian said:

Defo not a false reading, she’s defo running very hot 🥵 On a long uphill shell sit right on the bottom of the red and that’s with the thermostat out

So you do know that  300Tdi temp gauge with the needle just on the red could have an actual temp of 88Deg C or it could have an actual temp of 92 Deg C. GET A PROPER COOLANT GAUGE but of course that means spending money. No where near as much as a rebuilt enging. However you know better about the Land Rover gauge.

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14 minutes ago, mmgemini said:

So you do know that  300Tdi temp gauge with the needle just on the red could have an actual temp of 88Deg C or it could have an actual temp of 92 Deg C. GET A PROPER COOLANT GAUGE but of course that means spending money. No where near as much as a rebuilt enging. However you know better about the Land Rover gauge.

You could splash a couple of quid on a pack of temperature labels, would prove the point without having to swap gauges;

temp_label.jpg

 

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8 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

You could splash a couple of quid on a pack of temperature labels, would prove the point without having to swap gauges;

temp_label.jpg

 

Or even a few more quid on a temperature reading gun

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Check the coolant hoses for unevenness, swelling and excessive softness - one may have delaminated internally and blocked coolant flow.  Then consider the pump - it's not unknown for the impeller to slip or separate from the drive shaft, but you'll only know by removing it.

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  • 2 months later...

Ok so, Iv flushed and refilled, re bled the coolant system, checked the water pump and temps. All showing ok but after a lot of time on google I think I may have sussed it. I also have an oil leak around the rocker gasket, oil cap, it’s developed a rattle on tickover which gets faster as you accelerate and ever since being rebuilt it’s been a bitch to start from cold. So this weekend I’m gona test the compresssion and take it from there. I’m assuming it’s building pressure in the rocker are as the oil is being squeezed out and if you undo the oil cap, it dances around. It needs a lot of heat even in summer to start where the compression should make the heat needed and the overheating. Too much heat in rocker area right next to the temperature sensor. Fingers crossed it’s not too bad once the heads off

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300s are prone to air locks in the coolant system if the pipes between the road top, thermostat housing and expansion tank are blocked.  The Y-piece joiner for these pipes is prone to bunging up with rubbish and deposits, so have a close check of those lines.  You can clear the joiner out with stiff wire, but be careful removing it as it’s likely to be brittle with age - heat the pipes with hot water to soften them before pulling them off.

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