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Adam001

Respray advice - Enamel single stage

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Posted (edited)

Hi All,

Looking for some advice / confirmation on my approach to giving my landy a lick of new paint. There really isn't as much advice on the internet for the combination of Aluminium, etch, primer and enamel as you might think. Could those that have done it before confirm if my approach is solid?...

  1. Clean down the whole car
  2. DA sand the whole body with 180 and 240grit (Not removing all the paint, down to 80grit for dodgy areas etc)
  3. Apply body filler and sikaflex 291 to sort dents and seal up roof seams/gutters
  4. DA sand down to 320grit
  5. Wash, Panel wipe, tack rag
  6. Use rattle can etch primer on any bare aluminium or HDG steel areas
  7. Let cure for 1-2 hours, no sanding
  8. Apply primer to the whole car, around 2 coats split by 10mins using a HVLP gun, mixed with 10% thinner operating at around 25-30psi (Using this stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-qd-anti-corrosive-hi-build-primer-2150-p.asp)
  9. Wet sand primer after around 6 hours to 400g
  10. Wash, panel wipe, tack rag
  11. 2-3 coats of enamel, applied same as the primer (This stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-paint-2151-p.asp)
  12. Grab a beer...

Thoughts, anything you would do differently?

Cheer,

Adam

Edited by Adam001

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If you're using hi-build, no need to go down to 320 - just smooth the surface with 240 or 180 and get rid of scratches, rough edges etc.

If you're filling, best to take the dent area back to bare metal, fill, smooth, prime- prevents sinkage which shows up as an outline in the finished paint. 

Use a normal hi-build primer, you won't get any benefit from an anti corrosion primer.

25-30 psi is at the air cap, use a gun mounted regulator/gauge to get it right. You will need at least a 1.8mm cap for hi-build, preferraby a bit bigger.

Give the primer 24hrs to dry. Flat off with wet/dry, you can start with 120 to take the orange peel/chunks off then finish with 400. 

Wash residue with clean water and a sponge (if you hose it off you need to wait longer to dry out), degrease, apply top coat.  2 coats should be ample, allowing flash time in between - don't apply another coat after it's started to cure, say the next day.

Enamel/1k polyeurethane is pretty stable and not so affected by traces of grease, chemicals, other paints etc. 

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Posted (edited)

Hey,

Thanks for the info. Really helpful, will save myself the time on the prep, unfortunately the anti corrosive primer is the only one they offered, figured it didn't really matter though. I'll have a look what cap I have for my gun too.

Also the Sikaflex, reading the tech sheet it is sandable and paintable, just have to be willing to wait for it to fully sure before doing so

Thanks,

Adam

Edited by Adam001

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Posted (edited)

Just to complete this thread.

 

I completed my respray to this method and the results are good...

  1. Clean down the whole car
  2. DA sand the whole body with 180 and 240grit, 80 grit for corroded ally to take it down to metal and feather out the edges back to good paint - This process literally took weeks of evenings and weekends to complete, the roof was very bad!
  3. Wash, White spirit, Panel wipe, tack rag
  4. 2 light coats of rattle can etch primer separated by 20mins on all bare aluminium or HDG steel areas - Halfords etch turned out to be very good.
  5. Let cure for 24 hours with a heater
  6. Sand back down to 240 grit
  7. Wash, White spirit, Panel wipe, tack rag
  8. Apply primer to the whole car, around 2 coats split by 30mins using a HVLP siphon gun with 2.2 needle, mixed with 20% thinner operating at around 40psi (Using this stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-qd-anti-corrosive-hi-build-primer-2150-p.asp) 
  9. Let cure for 24 hours with a heater
  10. Wet sand primer to 400g
  11. Wash, White spirit, panel wipe, tack rag
  12. 4 light coats of enamel, applied same as the primer but at 20psi (This stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-paint-2151-p.asp)
  13. Grab a beer..

I actually did a two tone with roof and bonnet a different colour so I waited 5 days before masking the body up to do the roof. It's not showroom but not bad at all. Time will tell.

Might be of use to someone.

Edited by Adam001

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Posted (edited)

I'd also suggest: do it under cover! Nothing good has ever been reported about having squadrons of Greenfly or Wasps circulating while you're trying to spray a panel out-of-doors.

[But equally, if you're spraying in an enclosed space remember to use a proper air-feed mask so you don't start to get solvent-hallucinations after a few minutes]

I've always self-prepared but got the actual spraying done by professionals with a heated/airconditioned booth.

Edited by Tanuki

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Yeah fair point. I masked up my garage with polythene in a dexters lab fashion with a big extractor fan but yes a booth would be so much better!

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So pictures of the finished product? :)

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