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Posted (edited)

Looking to stick some maxxis trepador 37s on my Disco 2 td5 (2001)

 

Bit of advice on what lift is required? i know im going to have to trim the wheel arches, thats about it.

 

Cheers

 

Steve

Edited by remat999

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Posted (edited)

I had tyres on a classic that measured a bit less than 37". I had a spring lift, don't really know how much, I had bearmach soft offroad springs all around but when I bobtailed it the back ended up high due to the reduced weight so I put rear bearmach soft offroad springs on the front too which levelled it up. So maybe 3" or 4" lift worst case? I had +5" shocks that I never pulled the ends off or bent, corrected arms, wide angle joints etc. It worked well offroad but was too soft for on road really. Needed double shocks at the back or adjustable ones or whatever. 

I had to cut the rear inner arches out and weld them in higher up, about 5" as a guess, this included cutting the rear doors and welding an in fill panel in to tie the inner and outer door back together. Also making new panel work for the inner arch where the door would shut as some of that disappeared. The outer rear quarter panels had to be hacked a lot and became a bit flimsy so had to be supported.

The front inner arches had to be hacked about, easy enough at the top and front but a bit of a pain at the back as that's your foot well and body mount. On the classic there's maybe a 20mm square that runs the length of the inner wing, don't know if this is on the discovery but my aim was not to hack that. Then Just the front wing to hack and some arches to try make. I just used a bit of panel trim for the sharp edge then a bit of conveyor belt to cover the tyre for MOT but it depends if you want it to look nice or not. 

You could do a bigger suspension lift or a body lift but I don't like either, I think your just making it more likely to fall over. Alternatively you could extend your bump stops a lot to stop upwards movement, again I wouldn't as your limiting flex but it depends what you want to do with it. 

I agree with what Fridge says, I had to take it easy on the axles with 31" tyres on so a big aggressive tyre like that will require a lot of caution. I put Toyota axles on mine and didn't break them even when I rammed it from forwards to reverse without dropping the revs when stuck in a muddy bog and all the lockers in but others say they can break them too so I guess it depends what you want to do with the car. 

 

Comparing a 31" to whatever they measured, a smidge over 36" I think

F751E20B-C765-4845-9A22-65CD0F8437EA_zps

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Shows the rear door hack needed. Bear in mind they'd already been hacked once for the 31" tyres.

20150304_205028_zpsqrajdez7.jpg

20150304_204818_zpsicdavhka.jpg

 

Poor thing was a bit battered by the time I'd finished with her. Good luck!

20151031_114837%20Medium_zpseviyiyno.jpg

20151031_114812%20Medium_zpsxswybzur.jpg

Edited by Cynic-al

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IMO you are really going to struggle fitting them to a D2 if it's going to be anything other than a carpark crawler. Things like the rear doors are going to need a lot of butchery to get them on. I reckon you're better off with a smaller ~33" tyre that means you can actually use the flex.

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Biggest tyres I've seen on a D2 yet, not sure what size they are but I can ask the owner what he's done to it if it's of use:

IMGP2563.JPG

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As the standard tires are 29", you're looking at a 4" lift if you want to fit 37" tires and still have decent flex. Which is what I had on my Defender 90. Along with modified suspension arms and wheelspacers. And it will still involve some cutting, even more so and not easy on a Disco2.

What are your plans with it? Why chose these tires? I've driven a Defender (not mine) on 37" Trepador, and wasn't impressed at all. They were all but impossible to balance and couldn't match my Mickey Thompsons off road.

Filip

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What you have to be careful of is it's not just +8" tyre = +4" lift. Unless you extend the bump stops more than 4" (as they're inboard so in a flex situation they need to be more than 4" to limit the wheel by 4") then the axle will still come up to the point that it would pre lift meaning you still have to take 4" of bodywork away. Unless the shocks limit it which usually ends in breaking them or you put heavy duty springs on where the vehicle isn't heavy enough to compress them. The discovery in the photo above looks like the axles are pretty level, for whatever reason it's lifting a wheel so it's hard to tell how much upward flex the guy can get with the bodywork as it is. A photo from the other side or one with it a bit further forwards would probably show more.

Then there's the front and back of the wheel, which also stick out 4" more. On the D2 the rear doors get in the way at the back. You could move the axle back instead of hacking it to bits but that means longer arms, props, moving springs etc which put me off. Same on the front, the front footwell gets in the way, you've either got to limit flex or steering or get a big hammer on it. 

Or leave the suspension stock as your getting a good lift out the tyres anyway and lift the body. For clearance which is usually what stops you I'd rather have it in the suspension but I guess the body lift keeps the chassis / engine / gearbox weight lower down. No idea how easy a body lift would be on a D2 but I'm sure people will do it. 

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