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Kmc

Series 2 v8 gearbox question

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31 minutes ago, Snagger said:

Credit where it's due,...

OK mister, who are you and what have you done with snagger? :SVAgoaway:

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He's just got off the red-eye, and is a bit bleary.

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Thanks for that Fridge and Snagger, just sent them an email👍

 

 

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Call Jake Wright, Burley-in-Wharfdale. https://www.jakewright.com  I think the son runs the show now. When I did my V8 to 88" they had a checklist of all the parts needed ( I kept the S3 transmission, so easierish) and I sourced most of the parts for the swap from them. Very helpful.

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For what it's worth, my favoured mail supplier is Dunsfold LR.  Those guys know their stuff as they're all experienced enthusiasts, they sell gen parts at good prices, don't fib about stock and can give good advice.  I thought your screen shot and list looked a bit like Rimmer Bros, who seem to deal in anything fitted with a Rover V8, but their speciality seems to lay more with the engine than the vehicles.  I don't know much about them, but seeing so many parts listed as "aftermarket" makes me uncomfortable.

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After some further advice I can use the adapter ring  and the Defender gearbox but I need to have the flywheel re-drilled to take a 2.5 Tdi clutch, think I will have a few mm shaved of it too so it fits better. 

 I then noticed that the input shaft on the Defender gearbox is larger than the V8 box and won’t fit the spigot bush so I have had to order an adapter ring for the end of the flywheel. 😡

Could any of you send me some pics on the engine mounts as I spent a few hours trying to figure where I need to position the engine with no joy. I have been using the standard radiator and seat box as a guide but am reluctant to do lots of welding on the mounts in case it’s in the wrong position.

The good news is that the gearstick clears the seat box but the differential selector fouls so may need modification.

All good fun 😅D512A348-9795-48FC-94D6-2D658467B74C.thumb.jpeg.b190ab4ede86400794ef742b43714e70.jpeg1A8D8E5B-EE13-498E-AD94-FC7D4A399EFD.thumb.jpeg.462172d24434bfe6e284045ea0212f70.jpeg7CC92E74-5C27-4AA4-8A88-6D0CFC1F2355.thumb.jpeg.f5b716d9da927a18cc9b8b400906e37f.jpeg8E68B434-5AC1-4812-BED8-8169815F71D7.thumb.jpeg.41ceba65c7cba1c81aaf76309c83a94f.jpeg76CE5635-551D-4A7D-959A-F2E5D75F04D4.thumb.jpeg.733ffead323e14744a05b86670a2f522.jpegA780DC80-1D0C-4FB5-BEF2-CD8E562CE091.thumb.jpeg.140d1946e23923029cec58f3bb4c417f.jpeg79D1F011-AA85-47AF-BAF8-34637E4252EE.thumb.jpeg.c1fd2fb582d305346ef78d1f10f91b65.jpeg

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You'll find some pics of my engine mounts in my 109 thread linked above. What I'd suggest is to keep adding stuff to the engine as you've been doing and checking it clears. Exhaust downpipes are a great example of something that might back you into a corner. Once you're happy the major stuff is in and clear, it's time to bite the bullet and start fabricating! I'd suggest leaving at least and inch between the rad and anything on the front of the engine, the rubber mounts move more than you think. One useful trick to give oil filter clearance etc. up front is to mount the engine slightly higher than it otherwise might be. 

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Bit late on all this but...……….having done this conversion several times, but using the original gearbox. As far as I remember, its been a long time

The original kit would have comprised of the adaptor plate, a crankshaft spigot adaptor, and a set of engine mounts to bolt to the engine.

You had to have the thick 4x4 V8 flywheel redrilled to suit a series clutch, but you will have to use a Defender clutch as the splines are different. Will all bolt up to your gearbox.

If you used the thin SD1 type flywheel, you needed a modified release bearing sleeve also.

I always used the series radiator with an electric fan in front with no problems ever...……..even towing

For exhausts, use the twin outlet early RR 3.5 or Disco iron manifolds, with early (1986ish) downpipes, y piece, and muffler. Haveto make some exhaust mounts though

Tailpipe you are on your own !

Cannot use any typeV8 bellhousing, all too long, unles you start moving crossmembers, or/and fitting Defender front ends.

 

 

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As a side note, I did notice that the TVR V8 bellhousing is quite short compared to the Land Rover. But... Spendy and I've no idea if the internals are compatible with those in the 4wd version as you'd doubtless need the TVR input shaft to match. Would be sweet if TVR had used the same input shaft as the short LR box, though! 

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Thanks lo

On 6/22/2019 at 8:36 PM, lo-fi said:

You'll find some pics of my engine mounts in my 109 thread linked above. What I'd suggest is to keep adding stuff to the engine as you've been doing and checking it clears. Exhaust downpipes are a great example of something that might back you into a corner. Once you're happy the major stuff is in and clear, it's time to bite the bullet and start fabricating! I'd suggest leaving at least and inch between the rad and anything on the front of the engine, the rubber mounts move more than you think. One useful trick to give oil filter clearance etc. up front is to mount the engine slightly higher than it otherwise might be. 

Thanks for that tip on the exhaust down pipes, I need to have a look on EBay.

I did have a look on your build page to get some more ideas. I am going to go for an inch clearance at the front and fit a fan inside. The issue I have is that the car is just a chassis at the moment so am struggling to gauge what height to mount the engine and gearbox. I am planning to fabricate a new gearbox crossmember and move the  middle crossmember to allow the handbrake drum to be removed. I spent best part of 4 hours faffing about with a tape measure moving the lot up, down, backwards and forwards and then decided to roll it back in the garage as I was just not sure where to mount the engine.

I am going to fit a remote oil filter, had the same when I did my MGB GT. 

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On 6/23/2019 at 9:43 AM, smallfry said:

Bit late on all this but...……….having done this conversion several times, but using the original gearbox. As far as I remember, its been a long time

The original kit would have comprised of the adaptor plate, a crankshaft spigot adaptor, and a set of engine mounts to bolt to the engine.

You had to have the thick 4x4 V8 flywheel redrilled to suit a series clutch, but you will have to use a Defender clutch as the splines are different. Will all bolt up to your gearbox.

If you used the thin SD1 type flywheel, you needed a modified release bearing sleeve also.

I always used the series radiator with an electric fan in front with no problems ever...……..even towing

For exhausts, use the twin outlet early RR 3.5 or Disco iron manifolds, with early (1986ish) downpipes, y piece, and muffler. Haveto make some exhaust mounts though

Tailpipe you are on your own !

Cannot use any typeV8 bellhousing, all too long, unles you start moving crossmembers, or/and fitting Defender front ends.

 

 

Hi, thanks for the advice. I am waiting for the adapter plate to turn up and see how it all fits together.......😬

As the engine mounts are longer on the drivers side i take it the engine has to be central to the chassis?

will have a look at getting some exhaust parts, I still have some bits left from the Discover so will see if any of theses fit.

thank you all again for the help.

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42 minutes ago, Kmc said:

I spent best part of 4 hours faffing about with a tape measure moving the lot up, down, backwards and forwards and then decided to roll it back in the garage as I was just not sure where to mount the engine.

I remember this well, I spent ages with the engine and box on stands/jacks.

Look into the X-eng x-brake as an alternative to chopping stuff about to make room for the drum. My one regret on mine is not doing this; it would have made everything much easier.

A good datum for engine position is the hole for the starter handle. The stock position is to have the crank nose pretty much in the centre of that hole. The bulkhead/tunnel is also a good measure as it's the only thing really limiting how high you mount the whole setup, and also dictates lateral positioning unless you scallop the passenger footwell. If you're working on a bare chassis, I'd encourage you to put a bulkhead on before you make any decisions about placement of anything. 

Bon courage!

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Thanks for the sound advice on the bulkhead.

what type of exhaust manifolds are you using as there are lots or variants just to make it simple, do you have any pictures or part numbers?

There are the P6, the Range Rover ones which are the 3.9 which exit centrally, the P38 which exit to the rear of the engine and a square looking one EER 2535 which exit towards the rear going for about £470........ yes £470 on a well known auction site.

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You're very welcome :)It was hard won experience, so all the better if more people can benefit. I'm a sucker for a V8 landy too... 

I'm using the manifolds that came with the engine from the Disco 1. Earlier manifolds fit, but the castings tend to be a poor fit for the ports, so I'd question whether they'd flow as well. I have a spare engine in the garage so I'll grab some pics next time I'm in there. If I recall correctly, the disco ones exit somewhere round third or fourth cylinder back and by some miracle cleared the engine mounts where I wanted to put the engine. You'll be mounting further back than me, so they'll definitely suit and shouldn't be too expensive. 

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The P38 manifolds may foul the clutch slave, ask me how I know <_< also they are always cracked.

The cast 3.9 are reckoned to be the best, Disco 2 ones are very similar, in reality most of the popular/common cast ones would be my choice as you know you can get a spare if you need it - so, Disco 1 / RRC cast ones. Check for cracks and warping. Some people say 101 manifolds save space but they're a rare find these days, likewise the car ones. Older carbed 3.5 ones will be relatively restrictive.

If you're lucky you can use the standard down-pipes and Y-piece too, makes life much easier unless you're getting a full system fabricated. Don't forget the exhaust rigid-mounts to the transfer box bracket or you'll be chasing leaks, ask me how I know <_<

Manifold-to-head studs (3/8" UNC into the head, 3/8" UNF facing out) with brass UNF nuts are a nice upgrade, reduces the risk of stripping a thread in the block although they might need trimming near the bulkhead.

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7 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

If you're lucky you can use the standard down-pipes and Y-piece too, makes life much easier unless you're getting a full system fabricated

I used the downpipes on mine, but couldn't fit the Y piece as was and ended up fabricating one. 

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Thanks both, I will be getting the tape measure out again this weekend and see what other problems I can come up against 😂

 

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