western Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 the brown/yelow has to connect to the charge light [in your case its the Choke symbol] as it was on my original warning light panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 Starts like a dream. Daft question, which one is the choke light? Wires should be connected, but aren’t it seems, so wondered if it routes elsewhere first.... (Appreciate any thoughts on the glow plug timing question too please....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 The glow plug relay is timed off after a few seconds . The choke light is bottom row 2nd from the right . Is the engine loom connected to the main loom fully ? Do you have continuity from that point to the dash connector and again from the main loom connection to the alternator? If it starts ok that would suggest the ign. switch unit is connected correctly , have you checked continuity on the oil light circuit - (white/brown) ? cheers Steve b 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 (edited) Thanks, some of the dash lights work etc like Difflock. Will be more methodical tomorrow and list then out. What is the Brown/Yellow wire though please, it’s not used in the Haynes diagram etc Edited June 23, 2019 by roamingyak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 2 hours ago, western said: the brown/yelow has to connect to the charge light [in your case its the Choke symbol] as it was on my original warning light panel. What do you mean by ‘charge light’ please? Assume you mean a light bulb connection in the dash, ideally lighting up the choke light? Therefore Brown/Yellow is for glow plugs? (sorry, on a very slow connection and a tiny screen with filthy hands when I type these messages, thanks for your patience!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 Charge or more accurately the No charge light is the red battery light in top line of the warning light panel The choke is the butterfly valve symbol in lower line, looks like this [/] lights up Amber when glow plugs are in use Brown/yellow trace line is from alternator, Glow plug wiring is yellow/black trace line on it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR-HIPPO Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, roamingyak said: A. My only issue there so far is having a Brown/Yellow wire that is in the small alternator loom, plugs into the main loom, but then doesn't seem to connect through to the Brown/Yellow wire on the dash lights connector - when the auto electrician tests each end they are not connected. Faulty wire/connection or does it pass through something that we don’t have a relay in etc etc? Any suggestions appreciated! Just had a fiddle with the 200TDI here. It does matter it seems, how you measure the continuity for the Brown/Yellow wire. Pretty sure that there is a diode in the brown/yellow, hidden somewhere between the dash warning light plug and the Bulkhead to Engine loom plug. The continuity tester on my meter did not beep when testing in either direction. BUT with red+ connected to the Brown/Yellow at the dash plug, and the black- on my tester connected to the bulkhead to engine loom plug, it did register a resistance. I repeated the same tests with a test light: NOTE - For the live in this test I used+12v from one of the white wires that are live with the ignition on, (I used pin 4 on the left hand warning light panel plug, this was convenient, because the Brown/Yellow goes to pin 5, and you need to make sure that you have power to pin 4 anyway), the plug is unplugged for the test. The warning light panel, and bulkhead to engine loom plugs were unplugged for these tests. If I connect the live to.the Brown/Yellow at the the warning light panel plug, and connect a test lamp between the bulkhead plug and earth, the test lamp will illuminate However If I connect the live to Brown/Yellow at the bulkhead plug, and connect a test lamp between the Brown/Yellow at the warning light panel plug and earth, the lamp will NOT illuminate. If you have +12v at pin 4 of the left hand warning light panel plug (white 10 pin plug with an 8-2 split) when the ignition is on, then, with the plug plugged into the dash, if you earth the brown/yellow at the bulkhead to engine loom plug (unplugged), the red battery light on the warning light panel should illuminate. Hope this helps & good luck ,Hippo. Edited June 23, 2019 by MR-HIPPO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 the in loom charge light resistor looks like this out of its covering & loom, it located in the dash/main loom, to left of instrument pack about halfway along to where the Radio, rear wash/wipe,cig lighter wires come out of the loom. usually taped inside & covered with a insulating sleeve. It's not easy to access & the resistor inside looks like a glass fuse with a wide ridged strip inside. [it is NOT a fuse] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 On 6/21/2019 at 10:29 AM, western said: Red oil, red charge, Amber glow plug, and red brake check when key is twisted to start position Confirming the Red oil light should always come on at ignition/startup? It never did before, but if I changed oil it popped on until it figured out there was oil in there for a few seconds.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) Thanks guys, simply awesome and helpful answers, thank you so much. The wire from the resistor to the dash light connection is not working, advice above taken into consideration. We are checking the wire now, untaping it, if it seems ok we will change the resistor as fear it is not connected in there... (sigh...) Update: The dash light wires for the battery light are not connected in the new loom. They just run in a loop to a blank end with the diode in there and back, no other connections. Should I be hopping mad at Autosparks or are we missing something here? Edited June 24, 2019 by roamingyak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) Update: The dash light wires for the battery light are not connected in the new loom. They just run in a loop to a blank end with the diode in there and back, no other connections. Should I be hopping mad at Autosparks or are we missing something here? So I assume we connect these two blanked off wires on the dash light to the two wires on the resistor and Bob’s your uncle? (All brown/yellow wires) Edited June 24, 2019 by roamingyak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 3 hours ago, roamingyak said: Confirming the Red oil light should always come on at ignition/startup? It never did before, but if I changed oil it popped on until it figured out there was oil in there for a few seconds.... Yes, as it shows low or no oil pressure 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR-HIPPO Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) It looks like AutoSparks have screwed up. I am unable to find a wiring diagram for a 200TDI, so I have taken this from the 300TDI diagrams. (the earlier 90 - 110 pre TDI models just had the resistor, with no diode) The picture below shows how the charge light circuit with the diode should be wired. (This would appear to be in keeping with my test results from the 200TDI here last night) With the ignition switch in position"II" a feed is supplied to the ignition/no charge warning lamp (pin 4 on the 10 way plug) on a white wire. The warning lamp (from pin 5 on the 10 way plug) is earthed via the diode (C118-1) on a yellow/brown wire* and through the alternator field windings (C185-1) on a brown/yellow wire.The flow of current through the warning lamps and field windings partially magnetises the rotor. A resistor (C037-1& C038-1) is wired in parallel with the warning lamps to ensure continued exciter voltage in the event of bulb failure. *The Yellow/Brown wire in the diagram is Brown/Yellow on the 200TDI loom. This should give you enough info to rebuild the circuit. As for the oil light: Earthing the oil light wire at the engine end. (ignition on) If the the oil lamp on the dash illuminates. then the problem is with the sender on the engine. If the oil lamp does not illuminate, then I would check the bulb, and connections at the bulb holder. (perhaps even the copper contacts that the 10 pin plug slides onto?) Hope this helps, Hippo. Edited June 24, 2019 by MR-HIPPO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 Thanks heaps again, my auto electrician followed that and it’s working with the ignition, can’t turn the engine on at the moment, but confident it will work. Yeah, annoyed at Autosparks, effectively wasted the second to last day I had with the auto electrician trying to figure it all out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 Ok, hopefully one of the last requests! 😁 Below is my new fuse bank, populated at a best guess on fuse size. Can anybody recommend a picture and part number that we should be using for this new 1994-1996 200TDI loom please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 Does this marry up? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR-HIPPO Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 Beat me to it. That matches the fuse cover that I have on the 1994 200TDI 110 3 door commercial that I have here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 !!!Awesome!!! 😁 ill print it out, if anybody has it’s part number I’ll order a fancy sticker.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 Quite a lot on here: https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-defender/defender-90-and-110/parts/transfers-and-graphics/?per_page=64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 ...and here: https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=fuse+decal&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR-HIPPO Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) After much searching: (with proper internet speeds) I am unable to find a picture to confirm, but I think the correct label for the 200TDI fuse cover is PRC9902 Chassis VINs from HA705857 to LA939975 (1991 to 1994 MY) Your new loom is AMR2348. (As per your first post) Defender 90/110 Main Harness. 200Tdi : AMR2348 Chassis NO: 922209 - 962814 (1996 Model Year) The 200TDI I have here is a 1994 with chassis number 931*** (so well within the range listed by AutoSparks for your new loom, so I guess fuse cover should be the same as the one I have here?) PRC9902 is my best guess with the information that I have been able to find so far. None of the online retailers show a picture of the part, and Google Images also comes up short. I did find an old thread on this forum that also points to this part number, but due to the age of the posts the picture links no longer work. Edited June 24, 2019 by MR-HIPPO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 Agreed ^ I couldn't confirm it by picture, so wasn't going to stick my head on that block! Baffling, all the other decals have pictures on Britcar, just not that one, nor-anyone else on the interweb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR-HIPPO Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 ^ I did say best guess. 😉 Strange how there seems to be a big hole in the information that we have available for the 90-110 / defender vehicles, when it comes to the electrical side of 200TDIs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 Thanks guys, hugely appreciated 😓 Shall we create a project (new thread) to document the 200TDI looms? When complaining to Autosparks I can ask them to provide what info they have on making the loom, whack it into excel if they provide it, document it together online.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR-HIPPO Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 May not be a bad idea, if there is a 200TDI wiring diagram out there somewhere I would certainly like to get my hands on a copy. I hope you get this fully sorted and properly up and running soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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