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roamingyak

New wiring looms from Autosparks in 200TDI 110

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5 minutes ago, MR-HIPPO said:

May not be a bad idea, if there is a 200TDI wiring diagram out there somewhere I would certainly like to get my hands on a copy.

 

I hope you get this fully sorted and properly up and running soon.

The Haynes manual I have is fairly accurate (but needs to be in colour...) drop me a PM etc

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Posted (edited)

@PaulMc Excellent, Thank you.

Above pic is the first diagram that I have seen that shows the Brake check relay circuit. 👍

Edited by MR-HIPPO

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Posted (edited)

Ok, first motorway test run for an hour.... nothing too serious to fix.... 😁

Coolant system needs bleeding, installed this system which beeps and flashes whenever air touches its sensor... so I know that’s working which is great

https://youtu.be/OHfD-BNPVcg

Also the Engine Watchdog system alarm told me I had half a litre too little oil in the engine by going off until filled it to neutral or just over, so again that seems to work well...

https://youtu.be/xHe-H0ul_Kk

However the heater won’t come on, believe I should have this running to bleed the coolant of air bubbles? The three wires seem correctly connected from the dash switch to the 3 wires on the side of the heater matrix, fuse seems ok, assume it’s the fuse with rectangle and 3 squiggly lines indicating hot idea? Waiting on the auto electrician to trace them electronically...

Are we missing anything heater wise? 

Edited by roamingyak

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Posted (edited)

3 wires to heater.

On the vehicle here they are

Green  (on the diagram above this is purple/green?)

Green/Yellow

Green/Slate

 

Any way the first wire is a fused live supply to the heater (Green or Purple/Green)

The other two wires will read live from the heater end, they earthed back through the slider switch on the dash.

The speed is determined by which wire is earthed through the dash switch.

I believe that the Green/Yellow connects to the heater motor through a resistor inside the heater box, and so when earthed via the dash switch gives the slower speed, whereas Green/ Slate is directly connected to the motor, and so when earthed  gives you full speed.

 

 

With all the wires appearing live at the heater, I would assume that the problem is almost certainly with the wiring at the switch. (You should have the G/Y G/S and an earth there)  Or the switch it's self may be faulty?

 

 

Glad to hear you are up and running, I bet the auto electrician will be glad to see the back of you.

 

EDIT: I have just watched the two videos in you above post, they both look like good bits of kit.

Edited by MR-HIPPO
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Ok thanks, will investigate tomorrow.

Us Southern Hemisphere people are a kind and generous bunch, they are trying to talk me into staying longer and doing some more work on the old girl :)

 I have a big area out the back out of the way and they are a nice group of people. Having a strange Landy Kiwi to chat with breaks up the working day it seems and the auto electrician has enjoyed the challenge - we installed an entire dual battery system (ctek) with solar panels, sound system and various things before attempting the Landy looms.

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Ok, one annoying gremlinÂ đŸ˜©

The engine oil light keeps coming on whilst driving. This tends to be after at last 10 minutes of driving from cold. My last test drive it repeatedly (7-8 times) came on when coasting in neutral - for example accelerating in forth gear, coming up to some lights, slip it into neutral, oil pressure light flickers on rapidly. When I accelerate again it goes off again.

The oil pressure sender unit (the thing under the oil filter) has been replaced with part number PRC6387G as well as the wiring on the new loom.

The wire from the Engine Watchdog unit was also plugged into the wire going from the sender to the dash light, but we disconnected this (we put a diode onto it at first, then disconnected it)

Any ideas please? We are pulling our hair out...

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Does the engine watchdog show you the oil pressure?

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Posted (edited)

No, just the engine temperature. And it has an additional wire that taps into the oil pressure light wire, so you get an alarm from the engine watchdog as well as the normal dash light telling you there is low oil pressure.

Edit: I changed the engine oil and filters this morning, Castro’s Vectron 15-40 oil, genuine filters, no leaks after 50km. So same problem before and after oil change...

Edit 2: This may have been happening before, only two weeks ago we changed the oil pressure sender sensor below the oil filter and hadn’t driven it since. So may or may not be related to new loom and sensor install. From reading other posts it may be a leak in one of the gaskets around the turbo/exhaust area, did see a puff of smoke there a few weeks back....

Edited by roamingyak

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I would be getting an oil pressure gauge...

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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

I would be getting an oil pressure gauge...

As in one permanently fitted or a temporary one to solve this problem?

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Permanent. 

At the moment you have nothing to say whether your oil pressure idiot light is telling you the truth or not.

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Had the old oil pressure sensor failed? What was the reason for changing it?

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As above, a pressure gauge would show what is actually happening.

To me, the fact that the oil light is only coming on while the engine is idling, after it has warmed up, does not bode well.

 

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7 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

Had the old oil pressure sensor failed? What was the reason for changing it?

The light wasn’t working, changing all of the loom wiring, so changed the oil pressure sensor as well. Clean slate.

I’ve ordered a new one again, maybe the fitted new one is faulty, fingers crossed.... to confirm, it just flickers, doesn’t stay on constantly....

Then will increase idle speed a touch to see what happens, plus make auto electrician double check everything. Then double check hoses, manifold gasket etc for leaks...

Other than that it could be the oil pump or serious engine components? Need to find a Landy specialist then I think...

Does that sound logical?

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6 minutes ago, MR-HIPPO said:

As above, a pressure gauge would show what is actually happening.

To me, the fact that the oil light is only coming on while the engine is idling, after it has warmed up, does not bode well.

 

To confirm, it’s not at idle as in stationary, the vehicle is moving.

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7 minutes ago, roamingyak said:

To confirm, it’s not at idle as in stationary, the vehicle is moving.

I am now as confused as you are.

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Engine idling though from your description . It could just be the tickover is too slow , which incidentally would suggest other slight issues( FIP timing or FIP condition) . An oil gauge even temporarily installed would answer with real numbers . If it is genuine low oil pressure I think I would start with removing  the oil filter mounting block and strip and give it a good clean.

cheers

Steve b 

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, MR-HIPPO said:

I am now as confused as you are.

Only happens when I’m driving at speed, put into neutral with foot off clutch to coast up to some traffic lights, then the oil pressure light will flicker repeatedly at high velocity. 

Does not happen when stopped in neutral. 

Fairly sure this oil pressure light hasn’t been working for a while, so by fixing the electrics I now have the pleasure of seeing the light working :)

Going to replace the new oil pressure sensor today and then test the oil pressure with a machine rather relying on than the Landy electrics. Fingers crossed :)

Edited by roamingyak

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Heater solved, auto electrical had forgotten to plug in a wire behind the dash to give the fuse power 😂

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