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Ball Join extractor Tool for Land Rover Def & Disco


Muttland

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Hi to All:

 

I would like to know if it extractor in Amazon is suitable for the steering pointers of Land Rover Defender and Land Rover Discovery 1 and 2.

Its look very strong but I don't know if  it is too small or not

https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Splitter-Separator-Remover-Extractor/dp/B00H8KLGT4/ref=nav_ya_signin?keywords=ball+joint+extractor&qid=1560538421&s=gateway&sr=8-25&

extractor.jpg

 

 

 

Thank 

 

 

 

 

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The type shown is pretty much the same as the one  I use.

 

One hint - if the joint's taper doesn't seem to want to come apart don't just keep tightening and tightening until something breaks.

 

Tighten it up reasonably-tight, then go and have a coffee (or a beer). When you come back half an hour later chances are the taper will have 'popped' as intended.

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1 hour ago, Tanuki said:

The type shown is pretty much the same as the one  I use.

 

One hint - if the joint's taper doesn't seem to want to come apart don't just keep tightening and tightening until something breaks.

 

Tighten it up reasonably-tight, then go and have a coffee (or a beer). When you come back half an hour later chances are the taper will have 'popped' as intended.

And if that does not work then you can also use hammer shock technique while under load from the spliter

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Where possible I use two hammers im;pacting on opposite sides, all you need is a slight deflection in the cone for it to come apart. I have never used that type of splitter I used to use the fork type you hit in between but these ruin the rubbers.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/15/2019 at 2:28 AM, reb78 said:

Hammer didnt work last time I tried to do one without my tool. I was hitting it for ages, wouldnt budge. I have a similar one to mutley.

You are not doing it right....  Every ball joint taper ever comes off this way.

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With pressed steel suspension/steering component, for example on a mcpherson strut, the hammer method will not always work, even if not rusted in.

If pressed steel, I find the damage you cause not to be worth it, and just pull the separator tool out every time.

 

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10 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

With pressed steel suspension/steering component, for example on a mcpherson strut, the hammer method will not always work, even if not rusted in.

If pressed steel, I find the damage you cause not to be worth it, and just pull the separator tool out every time.

 

This thread is about Defenders and Discos.  Let's not get off topic.

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3 hours ago, Red90 said:

This thread is about Defenders and Discos.  Let's not get off topic.

 

16 hours ago, Red90 said:

You are not doing it right....  Every ball joint taper ever comes off this way.

With the best will in the world this is misleading then.....

Not trying to pick fault, but someone following the advice there could damage their vehicle.

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18 hours ago, Red90 said:

You are not doing it right....  Every ball joint taper ever comes off this way.

One hammer, two hammers (one on each side, hit together or apart), as i was changning them i even tried the end of the ball joint. I gave up before I broke something. So each to their own, but if you are happy potentially damaging things thats fine. I wasn't.

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On 6/15/2019 at 5:40 PM, ballcock said:

Where possible I use two hammers im;pacting on opposite sides, all you need is a slight deflection in the cone for it to come apart.

This ^^^ is close to what I was going to say.

Normally I hold a club hammer static against the arm to support it, and wallop the opposite side with my 2lb ball pein. Just hitting with a single hammer sends all the shock loading down the line, and just isn't as effective. Never failed to split one yet :D

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