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Series 2a & 3 IGNITION SWITCH WIRING


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Hi All. just would like some clarification on the wiring up of the ignition switch I have for my motor. The switch is a standard Landy Series 2a & 3  Petrol Ignition Switch and Keys, Part No. 551508 which is labeled up as BAT, IGN, ST & ACC. , where as I have a diagram showing connections 1,2,3 & 4? So could anyone point me in the right direction of connecting it up so I don't cause any damage?

380997366_ignitionswitch551508.jpg.940d5af6d091a94e4fc219ef1309132d.jpg  1714046245_ignitionswitchREAR.jpg.571db9b2e6ce87b9616a7aa0e2bcc6dd.jpg (Want to check wiring setup as I don't want to be doing any frying!!,,lol or NOT)

SO IS THIS RIGHT?

1= BAT, (To Battery/ Solenoid for starter motor via fuse box, fuse ampage??)

2=IGN (To Ignition side of fuse box fuse ampage??, then alternator)

3=ST(Solenoid for starter motor)

4=ACC (Accessories???) what usually gets connected to this please?

Cheers

Rich

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BAT will be the permanent live BROWN wire

IGN is the switched live WHITE wire

ST is the starter wire, white with a red stripe

Not sure if ACC would get connected to much in a Series?

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43 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

BAT will be the permanent live BROWN wire

IGN is the switched live WHITE wire

ST is the starter wire, white with a red stripe

Not sure if ACC would get connected to much in a Series?

thanks Mate

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TTBOMK there is a difference between the diesel and petrol versions.

ACC is soo overrated but was there on some versions.

I don't have them in my vehicles, so I can't be of much help.

Sorry

 

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Hi does anyone know what the fuse ratings need to be for the queried ??? as indicated in the wiring loom shown below? 

Also are the other shown rated fuses correct?

1072064500_DesignatedFuseRatings.jpg.a17b41693b62d451109551aac871ecee.jpg  Cheers All    Rich

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All the Series fuse ratings suck, not least because LR don't fuse some stuff because glass fuses don't go above 35A (more like 17A continuous before they glow).

Not sure where you got that diagram but it doesn't look like an original Series or Defender one to me, it's very odd and omits a few things - notably the flasher unit!

Oil pressure switch, choke switch, alternator light, and gauges all run on ignition live through a low amp fuse, I'd be surprised if the whole lot drew more than 5A.

Ignition coil doesn't need 35A, likely less than 10A.

You can use

http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/cablecalc.html

To calculate approximate fuse ratings for things

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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

All the Series fuse ratings suck, not least because LR don't fuse some stuff because glass fuses don't go above 35A (more like 17A continuous before they glow).

Not sure where you got that diagram but it doesn't look like an original Series or Defender one to me, it's very odd and omits a few things - notably the flasher unit!

Oil pressure switch, choke switch, alternator light, and gauges all run on ignition live through a low amp fuse, I'd be surprised if the whole lot drew more than 5A.

Ignition coil doesn't need 35A, likely less than 10A.

You can use

http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/cablecalc.html

To calculate approximate fuse ratings for things

thanks for the link, so out of interest is this an auto-industry set standard/rate for the safety margin percentage? Also is a voltage stabilizer needed?

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2 minutes ago, SHY 7G said:

thanks for the link, so out of interest is this an auto-industry set standard/rate for the safety margin percentage?

Nope, just a rough approximation - some things will need more headroom than others, for example a cooling fan takes a big hit to start up but may drop to <50% of that when running.

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  • 11 months later...

Ignition live (white) into start button, starter wire (white/red) removed from ignition switch, connected to other side of starter button.

Switch needs to handle at least 10A current unless your starter's on a relay.

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Posted (edited)

I've not seen that wiring-diagram before. There's variants - mostly in Black & white. The colour item attached is generally more useful.

If not the creeping 'American', I agree with regard the fuse-ratings. Not much save, heated-screens (15A?) , electric-fan (15-20A?) , heater-fan (10A?), and lights (10A... maybe 15A?) needs more than 5 amps. 35Amps Jeez, put a nail in there.

A biggish job- I junked much of the bird's-nest behind the instrument binnacle, and put in fuses at the proper rating for each item in the loom. Along with previous-owner Scotch-lok abortions, those fuse ratings are so over-the-top, no wonder many old looms are smoked.

I separated it all out. Else, as soon as you start putting any extras, it gets very awkward.  If it's a 'daily', heated-screens; USB ports; etc etc are very useful - the restrictive length of wiring behind that binnacle  is not good. As soon as you move it you'll pull something and put another fault on. Connecting the speedometer-cable will usually be enough.  I soldered and shrink-wrapped extension wiring such that it's possible to have the speedometer binnacle sat on the drivers-seat whilst you work or test on the rest.

Unlike the factory-loom, give yourself a heap of spare wire to allow you to move stuff as you work on anything else. Get yourself proper Molex connectors  (as shown)  - solder and shrink-wrap everything. Cheapo crimps are not worth the hassle - you won't see that trash on a factory loom. If you must use the red/blue/yellow junk, remove the sleeve and solder. And yes... it takes ages.

 

 

Series Land-rover Wiring in Colour.pdf

Molex.png

Molex 01.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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Worth noting that fuse rating does not equal fuse blow - the factory 35A glass fuses start to smoke at about 17A continuous load, which I suspect is why they never fused the lighting circuit on Series.

You want you fuse rating to be below the rating of whatever wiring comes after it, I usually step up a wire size if it's even within ~70% of the rating of the wire, reduces voltage drop too. Wire's cheap enough after all.

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Posted (edited)

Before I separated it all out, I got away with 25A in there. Even 25A is a lot. And only if it blows, up your game to 30A etc. Just carry spares, to continue FFs wise words, fuses are even cheaper than wire. I really don't understand 35A however we dress it up.

Edited by Landrover17H
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