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SHY 7G

Series 2a & 3 IGNITION SWITCH WIRING

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Hi All. just would like some clarification on the wiring up of the ignition switch I have for my motor. The switch is a standard Landy Series 2a & 3  Petrol Ignition Switch and Keys, Part No. 551508 which is labeled up as BAT, IGN, ST & ACC. , where as I have a diagram showing connections 1,2,3 & 4? So could anyone point me in the right direction of connecting it up so I don't cause any damage?

380997366_ignitionswitch551508.jpg.940d5af6d091a94e4fc219ef1309132d.jpg  1714046245_ignitionswitchREAR.jpg.571db9b2e6ce87b9616a7aa0e2bcc6dd.jpg (Want to check wiring setup as I don't want to be doing any frying!!,,lol or NOT)

SO IS THIS RIGHT?

1= BAT, (To Battery/ Solenoid for starter motor via fuse box, fuse ampage??)

2=IGN (To Ignition side of fuse box fuse ampage??, then alternator)

3=ST(Solenoid for starter motor)

4=ACC (Accessories???) what usually gets connected to this please?

Cheers

Rich

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BAT will be the permanent live BROWN wire

IGN is the switched live WHITE wire

ST is the starter wire, white with a red stripe

Not sure if ACC would get connected to much in a Series?

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43 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

BAT will be the permanent live BROWN wire

IGN is the switched live WHITE wire

ST is the starter wire, white with a red stripe

Not sure if ACC would get connected to much in a Series?

thanks Mate

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TTBOMK there is a difference between the diesel and petrol versions.

ACC is soo overrated but was there on some versions.

I don't have them in my vehicles, so I can't be of much help.

Sorry

 

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Acc would go to the gauges,  heater fan and wiper switch feeds.  It should be live with the key at the I notch, ignition at the II and starter at III.

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Hi does anyone know what the fuse ratings need to be for the queried ??? as indicated in the wiring loom shown below? 

Also are the other shown rated fuses correct?

1072064500_DesignatedFuseRatings.jpg.a17b41693b62d451109551aac871ecee.jpg  Cheers All    Rich

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All the Series fuse ratings suck, not least because LR don't fuse some stuff because glass fuses don't go above 35A (more like 17A continuous before they glow).

Not sure where you got that diagram but it doesn't look like an original Series or Defender one to me, it's very odd and omits a few things - notably the flasher unit!

Oil pressure switch, choke switch, alternator light, and gauges all run on ignition live through a low amp fuse, I'd be surprised if the whole lot drew more than 5A.

Ignition coil doesn't need 35A, likely less than 10A.

You can use

http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/cablecalc.html

To calculate approximate fuse ratings for things

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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

All the Series fuse ratings suck, not least because LR don't fuse some stuff because glass fuses don't go above 35A (more like 17A continuous before they glow).

Not sure where you got that diagram but it doesn't look like an original Series or Defender one to me, it's very odd and omits a few things - notably the flasher unit!

Oil pressure switch, choke switch, alternator light, and gauges all run on ignition live through a low amp fuse, I'd be surprised if the whole lot drew more than 5A.

Ignition coil doesn't need 35A, likely less than 10A.

You can use

http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/cablecalc.html

To calculate approximate fuse ratings for things

thanks for the link, so out of interest is this an auto-industry set standard/rate for the safety margin percentage? Also is a voltage stabilizer needed?

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2 minutes ago, SHY 7G said:

thanks for the link, so out of interest is this an auto-industry set standard/rate for the safety margin percentage?

Nope, just a rough approximation - some things will need more headroom than others, for example a cooling fan takes a big hit to start up but may drop to <50% of that when running.

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