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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

Can't help but think it's at the pricepoint that's a bit high for a punt. Spending a bit more for a named one that I can definitely get consumables for seems like a better idea.

 

They have gone up a lot in the last 2 years! I paid £79.99 for mine

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Got them here in Kent. @ £120

I picked one up and put it in the trolley and walked around doing the rest of the shopping. I put it back in the end. Probably regret it, but I question if I really need something else that will be seldom used and taking up space.

As with most of these things, it is never quite big enough. They do a bigger one (40 amp) which will cut 12mm, which is more like it for when you need it.

Most of my stuff is 3mm, but sometimes 4, 5, and 6mm, and doable with an angle grinder.

Sigh 

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  • 2 months later...

Hmm., I'll let others have a chance first but if you've still got it early August I could call in and collect. Alternatively if someone wants it and wants it shifted further south there's a slim chance we could fit it in the 110 to bring it further south (probably along the west coast).

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm not going to say it, or any similar infrared thermometer, is a poor purchase, but there are some characteristics you need to take account of.

These may or may not be covered in any instructions; also I have no idea if you read them or not.

The reading you get will depend on the colour and finish of the surface.

Assuming all surfaces are at the same temperature, perhaps verified by a thermometer with direct surface contact:

If the surface is flat and matt black you will get one reading.
If the surface is flat and gloss black you will get a different reading.
If the surface is flat and dull brass you will get a different reading.
If the surface is flat and polished chrome you will get a different reading.

The matt black will be the highest, the polished chrome will be the lowest.

Next, be aware how the area being read changes with the distance from the sensor. The measured area is in the shape of a cone, the point being at the sensor, the measured area being a circle whose diameter increases as the distance from the sensor increases.
I hope the instructions will give you detail, and even a diagram, to explain this.

Unless you are measuring a large 'flat' area, like a domestic heating panel radiator, a 2" distance will give a higher temperature than a 6" distance. For this reason, if I'm using one on a car I try to have the head of the thermometer VERY close to the surface being measured. I will give a bit of leeway if looking at the face of a car radiator, but I'd like to be within 6", assuming there is no grill in the way.

I hope this helps.

 

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Was a wee while ago but got this because I had to do some work in London for my sister and a table saw was required.

My small one is a 3 or 4 man lift ideally and needs a 32A supply. The big one needs the JCB to move it but doesn't need electricity as it has an 8hp single cylinder Honda diesel powering it. So naturally it was the ideal time to add another tool to the collection.

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Only good thing to come out of the weekend though!

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  • 1 month later...

Well needs must, lost three grinders in the last week to wear and tear (30+ yrs old) so cheap and cheerful bought this from my local homebase , been ok for an hour, we will see how it goes but I'm not going to complain for £20 regards Stephen 

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Why is it whenever you get some new toys I do too? 😂

Two three phase gennies, admittedly the Deutz air cooled one infront is for Dad because it has wheels and his digger probably doesn't have the lift capacity for the Ford one behind.

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And a considerable present courtesy of @FridgeFreezer. The irony is I'll probably have to use the diesel gennie to charge the electric forklift until I figure out another solution.

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There's also been an M18 plane and belt sander delivered to accompany the M18 table saw.

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  • 2 months later...

New circular saw through the post today

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my milwaukee one just stopped working, looking on various forums this seems to be a problem with the 18v milwaukee saw so I got this 36v makita instead hopefully it will last longer than the milwaukee one I had regards Stephen 

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9 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Funny had my M18 circular saw for 6 years at least and still going strong. Took a flying leap from 3m onto a slate floor, still going... 

Had mine 3 yrs and not worked hard or dropped, I appreciate that looking on forums makes it seem like there is an issue, I'm sure it's not as bad as it seems but I'm not taking the risk regards Stephen

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10 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Mine's not worked hard either by comparison to most. How's it died out of curiosity?

Was using it, put it down, picked it up and wouldn't run, changed batteries, wouldn't run, left it a day ran for several cuts and just stopped, then it just wouldn't run full stop regards Stephen

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I had that with my drill, it then took a whack and has been find ever since :lol:. Wonder if you've got a dodgy / worn out contact to the battery?

The Milwaukee's talk using some of the middle pins so if the tool can't talk to the battery it probably doesn't know it's there.

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