So where have I gone wrong?

[Green200tdi]

Sailsbury rear axle on my 1986 110 

changed the flange seal all was well went for a test drive today found the diff noisy ( I think) as changed gear box over could be either one of them 🙄

now the oil is ( I’ve never seen it before) coming out the seal like a tap,

when I tighten the flange nut do I just tighten up tight or is there I think it’s called preload or torque it up to set Nm help 😊

[MR-HIPPO]

Read this.

 

[Green200tdi]

Will do thank you 😊 

[Green200tdi]

Do you ever get the feeling you should of left well enough alone🤔

[MR-HIPPO]

This may be worth reading.

 

Also: check that the breather is not blocked.

[MR-HIPPO]

On 10/8/2013 at 11:55 AM, Snagger said:

............Don't replace the crush tube, just re-use it and tighten the main nut to about 150'lbs; that'll make the nut nice and tight without further squeezing the tube and increasing bearing preload (a new tube starts crushing at about 250'lbs and needs more and more to keep shortening). That goes for whether you use a new flange or not - the thickness of the flange has no influence on the bearings, just the nut torque. I have done this myself with good results.

 

[lo-fi]

I'm not sure when the changeover point is (it might not be relevant to you), but the early type of leather seal runs on a very different input flange to the later rubber one. A new type seal on an old type flange will leak horribly, and vice versa. 

I've used the 150lbft discussed above when changing the input flange and seal on mine with good results. It's enough to get it nice and tight, but not enough to crush the tube further. 

[neil110]

an alternative would be to get a local machine shop to make a spacer for you that is the same length as the crushed collapsible sleeve

[reb78]

I changed the leather seal on my 110 a couple of times but it still leaked so i changed the pinion and seal for the later version. I used the 150lbft torque mentioned and all has been fine for about 3 years and about 40k miles.