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Hi . just joined  and looking for help removing the front cover off a TD5 2000 reg ...Do you need to take the crank pulley off? whats the steps in doing this to check the timing chain? cheers guys

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Hi, Do a search for RAVE, the LR manual, and you'll find everything there.



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Hi there...

You don't say why you want to look at this.. Do you have a specific problem or just curious?


If you are looking to check the timing on your TD5 engine, you will need timing pins (One for the flywheel - Fitted through the bellhousing and one that is fitted once the rocker cover is removed.)

Timing pins like these....

Timing chains rarely wear on a TD5 as they are designed in such a way that it takes something like 26 revolutions for them to get back to their start position.

You turn the engine and when the gap in the flywheel lines up with the hole in the bellhousing, screw in the bottom pin.


Up top you will need to remove the acoustic cover (3 X 13 mm) and then the MAF to turbo pipework, including the pipe from the rocker cover.

The rocker cover has 13 X 8 mm bolts.

You will need a new rocker cover gasket ! (LVP000020)

Once this is all off.. You will see the top of the timing chain at the front of the engine. Just behind it in the head is a little slot for the second timing pin. If it won't drop in, your timing is out.


To adjust the timing you need to go in a little deeper.

If you need to adjust, you need to remove the fan cover and viscous fan etc.

You need to set the top pin first... So, remove to bottom one and turn the engine slowly unto the top pin drops in.... (if you are lucky, two bright links will be at the top of the timing chain.... Don't worry if they aren't... They may be several rotations off being at the top)

There is a circular black plastic cover on the front of the cylinder head... Usually the cause of leaks... (Evidence below)


When removed you may have a picture looking like this.... Top pin inserted, chain gear showing timing mark (Maybe two bright links), and the three bolts the hold the timing chain to the camshaft.


You need to loosen these three bolts a tad.....

Then get back under and rotate the engine the small amount needed (Hopefully small amount) to be able to screw the bottom pin in..

With both pins now inserted the engine timing is correct. 

Tighten one of the three bolts in the cam. Then remove the remaining two... Clean them thoroughly and apply a little loctite... Replace the two and tighten. Then remove the last one, clean and loctite etc.

You should now be safe to remove both pins.

Either fit a new front round black panel or clean really well and seal with good temperature tolerant sealant.

While you are in there it's wise to replace the injector loom if it's not been done for a few years. (AMR6103) Loads of video's etc. online to help you there.... (Video that includes changing injector harness)

Clean rocker cover and fit new gasket. It pays to add two small spots of sealant at the back where the semi-circular part lands on the head as those little corner sections that cup around the cam tend to leak.

Tighten down all 13 bolts.

Refit fan, fan cover, breather tube to top of engine and all the pipework you removed.... From airbox to turbo. Refit the acoustic cover.

Fingers crossed, it will start..... (Just make sure you've removed the bottom pin !!)

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I have no need to do this and hopefully never will - but I came across V8 Freak's description purely by chance & being curious and want to say what a fantastic explanation!

Most comprehensive words & excellent pics, too.


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