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daveturnbull

OT: Why is this bolt made of unweldium?

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Not a job I really wanted to do in the first place, and managed to shear a bellhousing bolt getting it out.

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I tried 4 times to weld a nut to the end of it to get it out. Not one of them really took, even with the bolt end filed clean and the welder cranked up to super-melty.

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^^ That's the inside bit that was briefly and lightly stuck to the bolt.

For some reason it just didn't penetrate at all. I can only think the bolt must be made of some kind of unweldable steel alloy. It's 2006 volvo (ford) vintage so probably made from the cheapest cow poo they could get away with.

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I have only ever seen that with copper based alloys - you learn something new every day! Good luck with getting it out!

 

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Looks like the weld took to the nut OK? I can't imagine a bell housing bolt is made of anything too fancy or expensive.

One thing I learned recently is to weld a washer to the broken bolt first, then weld a nut to the washer. This way the bolt should get the lion's share of the heat on the first weld, and hopefully it'll fuse better. Two heating cycles really ought the make that bolt wake up and come loose.

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7 minutes ago, mickeyw said:

Looks like the weld took to the nut OK?

Yep, no issues there. The last one in melty mode doesn't even look like a nut from the other side anymore. I was even starting on the bolt and working my way out to the nut.

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I have succeeded using those Irwin stud grip sockets in that exact situation, normally helps to heat the casing up too

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I haven't got the stud removers unfortunately. I also tried heating the casing with a propane torch for quite some time, and tried both mole grips and stilsons on the bolt to shift it, but only succeeded in wrecking the threads. It's properly stuck in there, and the bit that is sticking out seems too soft to get any purchase on.

In the end I took the executive decision that the other 7 bolts will have to step up and take on the job of holding the gearbox on between them. Life's too short to waste it on crappy bolts.

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1 minute ago, daveturnbull said:

the other 7 bolts will have to step up and take on the job of holding the gearbox on between them.

That's the sort of thing I might do (allegedly) but not admit it for fear of being slapped down :D:D:D

IMHO 7 will probably be enough as long as you are not going to abuse it... - you are not going to abuse it are you? :)

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3 minutes ago, ThreeSheds said:

you are not going to abuse it are you?

They call me Hoke Colburn

Anyway, the chances of an open stretch of road in Bournemouth in the summer = nil. This car only has to last to 200k miles (another 9k) then it's allowed to die.

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I've had that happen quite often trying to get rusty bolts out of exhaust manifolds and such. Not entirely sure why.

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Push comes to shove you could drill it out or drill the bolt to a smaller size to tap it even at M6 it will give you some holding power but better than nothing at all Regards Stephen

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43 minutes ago, daveturnbull said:

They call me Hoke Colburn

:D 

I am a bit like that - I still don't understand though, why I buy gas guzzlers and then drive them slowly to eek out the fuel... :D 

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I have one of these and it generally gets the job done.

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I am local to you, have some free time, and am happy to come over and give it a go.

 

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Looks an interesting bit of kit, have you got a link for it?

Thanks for the offer, but I've admitted defeat and put it back together now. The numerous attempts it made at falling off the jack were starting to get a little annoying.

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Posted (edited)

Apparently mine is a Draper.

Just like this one

 

HERE is a used one, much better value.

 

I have had mine for many years, and it has been very well abused.

It does have limitations, obviously you need enough stud left protruding to get a purchase on.

You also need enough space around the stud to be able to turn the tool.

 

EDIT: HERE it is in the Draper catalogue.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by MR-HIPPO
Added another link. (too much free time)

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7 minutes ago, daveturnbull said:

Thanks. Good to see you can use them to install studs too.

You learn something every day 😉

 

Not sure why, but in the first link, the item description states UNBRANDED in the product details?

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I can vouch for the effectiveness of those Irwin type extractors if there is enough meat on he stud to use them. Mine are branded “Craftsman “ from Sears in the USA, and have got me out the poo a few times!

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So these Irwin jobbies, do they cope with any some variation or do they only fit the quoted size?

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Posted (edited)

Also, are they all 3/8" Drive?

 

They certainly seem to get good reviews, no one seems to mention pulling broken bolts with them though. (at least not in the few pages I read through)

 

Edited by MR-HIPPO

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, ThreeSheds said:

So these Irwin jobbies, do they cope with any some variation or do they only fit the quoted size?

Also, are they all 3/8" Drive?

 

They certainly seem to get good reviews, no one seems to mention pulling broken bolts with them though. (at least not in the few pages I read through)

Edited by MR-HIPPO
Couldn't resit the temptation.

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1 hour ago, ThreeSheds said:

So these Irwin jobbies, do they cope with any some variation or do they only fit the quoted size?

They are a very coarse conical left hand thread. It is just a case of getting one closest to the size required that has good initial bite. I have used them on broken studs and rounded nuts.

From memory mine require a 22 mm  socket to drive them, they do not fit directly on a ratchet.

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A stud is just the same as a broken bolt as far as a stud extractor is concerned. I recently removed some 30 year old, 3/4" studs with a large set; they worked a charm.

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you can use either a 3/8 ratchet or 22mm socket with them

 

You don't need exact sizes. I just chose the smallest one I think I will be able to hammer on!! I had 3 bolts do this on a Jag gearbox and got all out with the Irwin set

 

Only problem I have head is the stud/bolt then shearing off flush with whatever it is mounted in. In that case you are still no worse off as you can then drill it out

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I find two nuts with a gap intbetween then fill that gap with weld, however it doesn't look like you have enough stud left. Maybe the bolts Chinese and made up of the black stuff that seems to pop out at you when you try to weld it and blow all the weld out? 

I think you'll be fine with 7, my Suzuki only had 3 :wacko:

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