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SlickV8

Series 2 V8 Lowering blocks on parabolics?

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Hi all, i new here and hoping someone can help me out.

I've a Series 2 running a 3.5 V8. Ive just fitted new parabolics [GB Springs]. The car now sits around 2" higher but the bigger issue is the front UJ is catching due to the angle of the engine to the driveshaft with the new raised ride height. I'm thinking i could fit 2" lowering blocks to bring it back down and line things up again but i cant find any reference to anyone doing this on a Series.

Any one know of a reason it cant be done or who might supply Series specific lowering blocks - ia quick web search just seems to pull up Ford Escort specific blocks...

Thanks in advance

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Hi,

You can do this, depending on the length of thread you have on your u bolts. But I would start with removing the prop and slacken off the bolts of the shackle a bit. Drive it around for some time and let the springs settle, and do up the shackle bolts again. They tend to sag a little from new, then settle at the right hight.

Daan

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I'd give GB springs a call, get some advice.

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Scallop the crossmember for clearance like the military ones. That’s the usual way to do it.

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You used to be able to get wedges that correct the angle without too much lifting of the axle. Sure someone with a mill could knock something up.

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Thank you all. I've seen loads of people 'commenting' that their ride height was raised on parabolics but none seems to have tried to lower it back with blocks so I was slightly curious that there maybe a reason i wasnt aware of.

So I've spoken to GB, they suggest the springs will settle albeit not a huge amount.  I've removed the front prop for now and got a great 50 odd miles in yesterday (love the new ride).

I'm having some custom blocks and U-bolts made up which should be with me late next week so I'll update on fitment, height and hopefully a return to 4WD

Thanks again for the swift and valuable replies; I'm just getting started on the Series so I'll doubtless be back with more as it develops. 

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I would not suggest to use lowering blocks at all, especially if you use it off road. The reason you can't find any is it's the opposite of what most with a 4x4 would do as it will greatly restrict the already limited front axle travel. Instead, a better solution than lowering blocks would be a wide angle propshaft from Gwyn Lewis or somewhere. 
Firstly you need to identify which dampers and shackles you have as this will help determine the current castor angle possibilities and maximum suspension droop you have. You also don't want the suspension running 'topped out' all the time as it will quickly destroy your dampers so maybe the spring rate you picked might be a bit high? Are they a 'heavy duty' spring? 

 Normal series dampers wouldn't allow the prop UJ's to bind regardless of spring type fitted so I guess there's something else going on.. It could also be you have an aftermarket or wrong front prop shaft. Check that your UJ's move to 27º. If not, get a new (preferably wide angle) propshaft.
Also check everything including the clearance between the crossmember and the propshaft when the axle is hanging down by lifting off the bumper or chassis and the dampers are fully extended and don't do any of it at ride height which is irrelevant as your propshaft, UJ's etc have to operate throughout the whole suspension cycle. I'd also suggest that lowering blocks are a suspension modification which you'll need to advise your insurance about, a new propshaft isn't.

Some pictures might be helpful too.

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Blocks will also increase the axles tenancy to "wrap" the spring. As pointed out above, there are better solutions. 

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On 7/7/2019 at 12:47 AM, Jamie_grieve said:

I would not suggest to use lowering blocks at all, especially if you use it off road. The reason you can't find any is it's the opposite of what most with a 4x4 would do as it will greatly restrict the already limited front axle travel. Instead, a better solution than lowering blocks would be a wide angle propshaft from Gwyn Lewis or somewhere. 
Firstly you need to identify which dampers and shackles you have as this will help determine the current castor angle possibilities and maximum suspension droop you have. You also don't want the suspension running 'topped out' all the time as it will quickly destroy your dampers so maybe the spring rate you picked might be a bit high? Are they a 'heavy duty' spring? 

 Normal series dampers wouldn't allow the prop UJ's to bind regardless of spring type fitted so I guess there's something else going on.. It could also be you have an aftermarket or wrong front prop shaft. Check that your UJ's move to 27º. If not, get a new (preferably wide angle) propshaft.
Also check everything including the clearance between the crossmember and the propshaft when the axle is hanging down by lifting off the bumper or chassis and the dampers are fully extended and don't do any of it at ride height which is irrelevant as your propshaft, UJ's etc have to operate throughout the whole suspension cycle. I'd also suggest that lowering blocks are a suspension modification which you'll need to advise your insurance about, a new propshaft isn't.

Some pictures might be helpful too.

Thanks again all. Ive run it without the front prop some miles now and typically a few other issues have popped up so Ive now stripped out a load of ancilleries and sent them off for repair / recon / powdercoat etc. I'm going to bite the bullet while I'm stripping it down and make a start on fitting an R380 gbox so I'll re visit the ride height once Ive everything in place to measure as I think i'll be needing a new rear prop making up for the R380 anyway. I received some custom 2" blocks and extended U bolts today so I'll have a go with them and take some pics as i get chance....looks like the winter project starts early this year :)

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4 hours ago, SlickV8 said:

and take some pics as i get chance

Can you take some pictures before you put the lowering blocks on so we can see what's going on please? 
You definitely have some unresolved issues that reconditioning components or changing the gearbox won't resolve. The lowering blocks will greatly compromise your off road capability and will severely restrict axle travel on the front as well as giving an uncomfortable ride. It sounds like a lot of trouble when all that was needed was a different front propshaft.

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I think you're exaggerating a bit there Jamie, correction wedges only rotate the axle a twitch to make up for the parabolics so you're lowering it by maybe 10mm ish... another option is to whip the axle off and machine the slope into the spring mount.

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These aren't wedges fridge, they are lowering blocks...

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7 hours ago, SlickV8 said:

I received some custom 2" blocks

 

2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I think you're exaggerating a bit there Jamie,

Yet again you show how little you actually read and understand peoples posts.
I'm dyslexic and really struggle with reading sometimes. I hope you have a similar excuse.
How do you propose to deal with the misaligned prop flanges with the wedges you suggest? We don't know the shackle length so wedges will cause a vibration from the propshaft hence the request for pictures. 
You of all people should know better.

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I did indeed miss that OP was still talking about 2" spacers rather than the correction wedges I had mentioned in my previous post.

2" spacers are as horrible as Jamie's attitude :SVAgoaway:

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haha, ok so definitely a cat among the pigeons subject :)  all replies/suggestions are equally appreciated

I'm hoping to get a couple of kid/work afternoons free this week so I'll take some pics.I know its potentially sacrilege here but my priority isnt off road for this build [although IF i ever sold it I'd like the next owner to be able to easily be able to convert back if the blocks are an issue]. Ive wanted a V8 Series for as long as I can remember and I'm pretty well stretched for spare time between home/kids and business so realistically this ones only going to be used for high days and odd road trips.

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R380 without coiler axles sounds like a whole world of pain. I presume your using an LT230, and the engine in the stock location? Make sure your can actually get the front prop to the axle without scalloping the gearbox cross member to extinction. 

Pro-comp sell wedges. but they aren't great in my opinion.

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1 hour ago, MECCANO said:

R380 without coiler axles sounds like a whole world of pain.

How so? I've got V8+R380+LT230 in my 109, admittedly on Volvo axles but can't see why it should be hard with any axle? :huh:

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i was going to go the ashfords route - R380 short with their adaptor kit and the standard transfer box. Not gone much further than pricing it up at the moment as its supposed to be the plan for winter nights. My understanding is that it basically moves the gearlever back 120mm from memory and thered some cutting / welding of the cross member support.

I'll start another thread when the time comes

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Posted (edited)

Fridge, i'm pretty sure you used defender gearbox mounts on yours which lifts the box up higher than a series.

Jericho Used defender gearbox mounts positioned at the stock series gearbox height, and they stuck out bellow the chassis rail.

 

 

Edited by MECCANO

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Through fabrication all things are possible :D

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There is many people who have done this.

Like this one:

Or this one:

Bear in mind that virtually every R380 you find is about a foot longer than the box you have now. It is possible to get an R380 with a shorter bellhousing, but there are very few of these around. Ashcroft has done a re run of this bellhousing.

Your best bet is an LT77S from a  defender with a conversion plate to mate to the V8, to get the shortest combination.

Daan

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15 hours ago, Daan said:

Bear in mind that virtually every R380 you find is about a foot longer than the box you have now. It is possible to get an R380 with a shorter bellhousing, but there are very few of these around. Ashcroft has done a re run of this bellhousing.

Your best bet is an LT77S from a  defender with a conversion plate to mate to the V8, to get the shortest combination.

In a 109 there's more space so the length is less of an issue, with an 88" you end up with a rear prop that's just two UJ's welded back-to-back :lol:

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19 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Through fabrication all things are possible :D

Not with out a whole world of pain!

I moved the engine 100mm forwards on my 88 and ended up with a 45cm rear prop ( off the top of my head). There was  couple of inches between the front cross member and front of the 2.25/tdi. I ran around like this for a couple of years before I dropped in the t16.  This was with a LT230.

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I have an SIII with a 3.5/3.9 hybrid and parabolics and extended shackles. On portals.

As per the advice given above. First, bump it around a field quite a bit. They will definitely settle a little bit. Second,also as noted above, there are such things as "degree wedges", steel wedges that fit at the spring perch to angle the pinion nose slightly up to correct for the lift. I had some years ago but cannot for the life of me recall from where I got them, sorry.

Finally, years ago when I was an early guinea pig for Nigel's "Gone2Far" suspension set up, I had a narrow diameter wide yolk prop shaft made in the UK by a place that was then called (but may have changed name?) "The Propshaft Clinic". It was very well made and is still on my rig. This allows you to avoid scalloping the crossmember.

Hope this is helpful.

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