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P38 Door handle fix


Simon_CSK

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20190705_105419.thumb.jpg.3f7810d79d0e9d3c53b8a90c488e17bb.jpgBeen staring at this for a number of years. 

The door handle on my P38 broke, litterally pulled off the car when I tried to open it. Spent some time this morning and realised just haw easy it was to fix. The plastic pin on the handle which bears on the camb had worn away to a point. I simply drilled through it and put a hex bolt and a couple of nuts on it to secure it in the correct place.

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On ‎7‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 11:17 AM, Simon_CSK said:

20190705_105419.thumb.jpg.3f7810d79d0e9d3c53b8a90c488e17bb.jpgimageproxy.php?img=&key=9400f925d91862baBeen staring at this for a number of years. 

The door handle on my P38 broke, litterally pulled off the car when I tried to open it. Spent some time this morning and realised just haw easy it was to fix. The plastic pin on the handle which bears on the camb had worn away to a point. I simply drilled through it and put a hex bolt and a couple of nuts on it to secure it in the correct place.

Hi Simon , remember the door handle that you sent me ? exactly the same problem & they are still making these in plastic 😉

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Actually Paul when I went to fit it on the handle I had put on the car as a temporary fix had a perfect drivers door handle but the lock was wrong so I was able to take the handle off and put it on my old lock.

Am currently working my way through major and minor issues so should have my car on the road this week. 

Hopefully then be able to take it to the British Grand Prix.

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14 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

Actually Paul when I went to fit it on the handle I had put on the car as a temporary fix had a perfect drivers door handle but the lock was wrong so I was able to take the handle off and put it on my old lock.

Am currently working my way through major and minor issues so should have my car on the road this week. 

Hopefully then be able to take it to the British Grand Prix.

If you ever find a way of changing the lock over on one of these handles let us know will you bud . Good luck with your repairs . 

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13 hours ago, P38 Paul said:

If you ever find a way of changing the lock over on one of these handles let us know will you bud . Good luck with your repairs . 

I don't think you can change the lock over but an independent told me that LR can cut a new lock for your key

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4 hours ago, P38 Paul said:

Sounds nice & expensive , I think I will stay with what I've got 😉

Define expensive?

I think it was a little short of £200.00 which for a Range Rover is very reasonable.

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21 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

Define expensive?

I think it was a little short of £200.00 which for a Range Rover is very reasonable.

You're correct Simon , that is cheap for a Range Rover , I wonder if you have to go through a main dealer or can a independent source the new handle & lock ? 

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15 minutes ago, P38 Paul said:

You're correct Simon , that is cheap for a Range Rover , I wonder if you have to go through a main dealer or can a independent source the new handle & lock ? 

The Independent said he could do it. Try your local Indy and see. He showed me the price on his computer.

I know also there are spare keys cut at the point of manufacture these are in storage and just need coded with the EKA code. This I was told by the Indy but confirmed yesterday by an auto locksmith who was replaing my Disco key after I lost it.

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  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

I have recently fallen foul of this one.  Ive been awaiting parts from Craddocks since February.  They have finally released the order so the parts are coming tomorrow (Less the handle, they are struggling to get that one.  I think they have had to liaise with Land Rover directly.  Still, I am confident I`ll get it as they haven`t said No yet.  I`ll try and upload a picture of the order so others can benefit from the part numbers etc.  I was holding off buying the cheap fix parts as didnt want to pay the tenner postage just for the £4 bits.  I suggest anyone whose Handles are getting stiff buy the cheap fix sooner rather than later.  Not looking forward to doing it if I`m honest.

door.JPG

handle.JPG

P38DoorFix.PNG

 

Parts Diagram is currently available to be viewed here

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88265/88266/6958

 

Just stumbled over this article which I`ll be following.

https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless?page=1

I`ll let you know how I get on

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So.  Left door done & it wasn`t too bad. Big shout out to Orangebean @ rangerovers.pub for the plastic tie tip however it was still a fiddle.  Interestingly, either the chap at landrover putting the springs in the bags have either put the right door spring in the left kit bag & the left door spring in the right kit back or the part numbers are wrong for each door.
I didnt end up using MTC9290 - CLIP-RETAINER PIN  or ALR68 Clip.  Ive added more pics below as the ones on the definitive fix are missing

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/the-definitive-fix-for-stiff-p38a-door-handles.11692/

 

 

kit.JPG

 

 

First job was to pop off what they call a cheater panel(just pulls off). This reveals Door card securing screw no.1. Disconnect the speaker connector. Remove the screw securing the remote handle escutcheon, remove escutcheon. Two more screws under the arm rest. Then its the door card pull and jiggle (might break some clips here x12). Disconnect Speaker connector. Carefully release the plastic sheet, I used a thin knife

 

 

 

Cheater Panel.jpg

 

Sheet.JPG

 

Torch time. The Red Plastic retaining clip at the latch end just needs to be rotated anti clockwise then remove the control rod from the door handle.

securing clip.jpg

rod.JPG

 

Torx 25 bit for the handle inner securing screw, slide the handle forwards and rotate outwards to reveal the outer securing screw.  Take plenty of pics of the inner workings of the handle to give yourself a fighting chance. Put the kettle on as here comes the fun bit.  Remove old roll pin and seperate the old spring and plastic bit. Then its the plastic tie trick (Swearing optional).  I found thicker ties held better but the bigger they are you lose space to move.

inner screw.jpg

outer screw.JPG

 

You can see where the mechanism rubs the spare bit of metal at the bottom of the handle, I just snapped mine off once it was back together again.

Now I`m waiting for the drivers door handle to arrive and I`ll follow up once I`ve done that side if there are any big differences.  Hope this helps.

modified.JPG

Rubs here.jpg

Edited by Milanet
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On 5/22/2020 at 9:28 PM, Milanet said:

Took mine for a run today to test drive it after fitting LPG  and agree big smiles.

 I like my P38 very much but have recently addedd an L322 HSE to my collection which is so good that I am in the process of changing it to a TDV8.Range Rovers just keep getting better and better but think I need to do something about my CSK.

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  • 2 years later...

Hello, I happened upon this thread due to shared interest. 

I suffered the same issues with driver's side (left) door handle. I purchased the repair spring, lever and pin kit. While installing, I snapped off the small pot-metal pole in which the pin is supposed to fasten the plastic spring lever. Uggghhh. 

 

I found a replacement handle at pick a part for $15.00. The only issue was the lock tumbler required swapping out. After some trial and error, I discovered the trick to popping out the tumbler. 

 

When viewing the tumbler you will notice two "L" shaped latches that fit inside a reciprocal notch. These are where the tumbler is released by spinning the top section opposite the bottom. I used a crescent wrench and vice grips. However, there is one important step required for success. The key must be inserted in the tumbler and turned while you are wrenching the top and bottom. It is spring loaded and caution must be paid to avoid it blasting off and being lost or injuring someone.

 

Hope it helps.

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