jordan_meakin Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Hi all. I'm enjoying my RRC but still have the stuttering that I mentioned on a previous post. I have realised that it seems to do this at a certain point in the pedal travel. If I take it easy, or boot it, it runs fine but it means I have to drive like a granny or a lunatic (albeit that's fun). Could this be a sign of a bad throttle potentiometer? The only contrary indication is that it doesn't do it when cold but that idle is a little erratic whilst cold... Any advice welcomed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 If your MAF working OK? That's how mine would drive if I forgot to plug it back in.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 No idea, give me a clue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted August 2, 2019 Author Share Posted August 2, 2019 So, I cleaned the MAF - no change, also had the stepper motor off to clean. Not a lot to be seen there but cleaned nonetheless. Yesterday I fitted a new ignition module, the three pin type. I am sure I've wired it up correctly as the destructions suggest but now it won't run! Any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 So, back up and running today. It turns out that the Bearmach instructions that come with the part are incorrect! The connector block is labelled 1, 2 and 3. The instructions say - goes to 1, + goes to 2. In fact, + goes to 3! Unfortunately, it hasn't solved the previous problems although, the idle is better by chance almost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 After much arsing about, it appears to be the throttle potentiometer. Currently it's unplugged and running like a dream. Not sure what'll happen if I continue to run unplugged but the replacements are damn expensive!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Can you measure the resistance of the pot and get a 50p stock one off the internet then make a mount for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 Wizardry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 6 hours ago, Cynic-al said: Can you measure the resistance of the pot and get a 50p stock one off the internet then make a mount for it? Not sure the exact resistance would matter as it's just acting as a voltage divider, the linearity might matter more, and the flapper system is fussy about the "resting" voltage hence the setup to adjust the pot to a certain voltage at idle. By contrast, MS only cares about the rate of change (stamping on the pedal) for acceleration enrichment, and wide-open (pedal to floor) for flood-clear mode during cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 I guess the angle of rotation has to be right too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 57 minutes ago, Cynic-al said: I guess the angle of rotation has to be right too? Doesn't really matter for fuel only, Flapper & Hotwire don't know the angle they just trigger off the coil -ve... most of the time you're squirting fuel against the back of a closed valve anyway, and it's bank or batch fire (4/4 or all 8 at a time). It doesn't need over-thinking, after all the carb just pours fuel down there constantly like a leaky bucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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