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neilc

Defender steering wheel

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Just a quick question , will this defender steering wheel fit directly onto as series 3 column , thanks in advance 

IMG_20190716_230340.jpg

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Yes.  You’ll need to remove the indicator cancelling lug at the back and use the steel collar from behind the SIII wheel, with the lug at 3o’clock and find some method to secure the collar to the new wheel so they rotate together.

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3 hours ago, Snagger said:

Yes.  You’ll need to remove the indicator cancelling lug at the back and use the steel collar from behind the SIII wheel, with the lug at 3o’clock and find some method to secure the collar to the new wheel so they rotate togethe

Thanks i appreciate that, I'll give it some thought , would the lug then be able to be re attached to the original as I will of course be keeping to re install  as long term I would like to keep it as original as possible. Could I not just use the nut from the original ?

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The lug is on the wheel itself so you wouldn't be able to fit it back on a defender easily but you would be able to fit a series wheel back on.

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Are you running PAS? it'll make the steering feel very heavy if not

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30 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

Are you running PAS? it'll make the steering feel very heavy if not

These Tdi steering wheels have similar diameter to Series wheels, so diameter won’t cause much of an issue, but their chunkier rim and soft grip allow easier application of force.  It’s a fair point when thinking of fitting Maestro/Montego/Metro wheels, though, for those with less brute force.

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3 hours ago, neilc said:

 

Thanks i appreciate that, I'll give it some thought , would the lug then be able to be re attached to the original as I will of course be keeping to re install  as long term I would like to keep it as original as possible. Could I not just use the nut from the original ?

No - you need the collar because of the distance from the back of the wheel to the indicator stalk, and also to apply pressure to the large spring that presses against the column top bearing to give it its preload.

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Posted (edited)

Attach the self cancelling collar to the back of the Defender style wheel using self tapping screws. That's how I've done it on my series 3. You may need to gently bend the indicator stalk to clear the wheel, as it has less offset than the original wheel - so its closer to the bulkhead and hence the stalk.

Edited by simonb

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1 hour ago, simonb said:

Attach the self cancelling collar to the back of the Defender style wheel using self tapping screws. That's how I've done it on my series 3. You may need to gently bend the indicator stalk to clear the wheel, as it has less offset than the original wheel - so its closer to the bulkhead and hence the stalk.

That’s how I did it with Austin wheels on my 109 too.

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Ok , so apart from paying out for the new wheel is this worth doing , seems simple enough ,I'm driving to wales from Birmingham next week , just thought it would make things a bit more comfortable , I drove 600 miles last year with the current wheel on so it's not essential.

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Ok , so apart from paying out for the new wheel is this worth doing , seems simple enough ,I'm driving to wales from Birmingham next week , just thought it would make things a bit more comfortable , I drove 600 miles last year with the current wheel on so it's not essential.

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Snagger , after attaching the collar with self tappers and putting the wheel on , how did you secure the wheel , is it just a case of getting a large washer / nut ?

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Use the original washer and nut.

How worthwhile this is is very subjective.  Certainly, if you have a really tidy and original vehicle, it detracts from originality, but I think it makes driving more comfortable to have a chunkier and softer rim.  Being set closer to the hub line, the rim will be closer to your thighs, so more arm room at the cost of leg room.  How comfortable that’d be depends on your anthropometrics.  I used the smaller diameter Metro and then a Montego wheel as they give more leg room too, but at the cost of heavier steering feel at low speed.  I still preferred that to the original.  Ultimately, it’s a quickly reversible mod if you decide you don’t like it, and an inexpensive one at that, so it’s worth a try.

 

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The vehicle is very original apart from electronic points , someone has offered me the steering wheel for  £15 so its worth a go and I will of course keep the original to replace , thanks , I appreciate all of your suggestions .

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Just picked it up , might attempt to do it later , as stated is very similar in size , however wheel is chunkier 

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Posted (edited)

Ok , I've done it. , There are a couple of things that you should be aware of that I wasn't , old wheel came off easily , indicator collar has two tabs that tuck into old wheel so that when wheel turns it turns the collar , these were preventing the collar being flush on the new one so I folded them back , they may snap when I put old one back on but the collars are only about a fiver . The second issue I had was that the circumference of the collar was a bit smaller than the circumference of the new wheel connection so I used a dremnel to file off 00000000.1 mm ( or something like that ) from new wheel so collar would lie flat and as mentioned before I then drilled 2 wholes through base of collar (dremnel) and used self tappers  as it needs to be secured to do the job of the little tabs on the original wheel . Ideally it would be a good idea to buy a second indicator cancelling collar and put it on the new wheel before doing a quick change , also finally the indicator collar is a very tight fit so wd40 the column slightly before fitting it because if it's incorrect you will never get it back off. Below are pictures of the collar with the metal tabs bent level 

IMG_20190719_180021802.jpg

IMG_20190719_180013293.jpg

IMG_20190719_180006451.jpg

Edited by neilc
New photos

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Posted (edited)

Sorry one  final , final thing , the indicator cancelling lug wasn't actually cancelling the indicator , the wheel doesn't seem to go as far back as the original so I loosened the indicator set up and pulled it forward about 1/3 cm and then tightened back up , you will then need to ( as previously mentioned by snagger)  Bend the indicator stalk very slightly backwards as it will now hit wheel and casing . 

Edited by neilc

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