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xychix

French MOT (CT) failed pollution test

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In France there are regulations also demanding a 'pollution test' for all vehicles from 1980 and up. (Older vehicles aren't subjected to emission tests)
And yes my 1979 Series III was first put on a license plate in 1980 - February.


The measurement was so bad the machine failed, he clamped the sensor not in but just outside the exhaust and measured 1.5M (2.5M allowed for 1980+ diesel vehicles with no turbo)

What can I do to drastically reduce the smoke out of my old n tired 2,25 di? Was really hoping to keep it on the road! Once this round is passed next CT would be in 5 years.

regards.

Edited by xychix

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Is it a full emissions test looking for certain gases, or is it just a basic smoke test?

Generally as long as the engine is in good health and not worn out (i.e. burning lots of oil) then a good fast drive with some prolonged high revs does wonders for clearing out the pipes. Also known as an Italian tune-up.

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Do you have smoke when driving as it is ?

Check all the obvious - clean diesel filter , clean oil at correct level in the air filter , tappet clearances correct . Maybe  some injector clean in the tank , not something I bother with but others certainly do .

Last but by no means least is the injector pump timing good ?  the 2 1/4 diesel suffers from retarded timing due to wear in the skew gear that drives it from the camshaft , when bad enough it shows as blue smoke/haze when driving . To advance timing turn the pump body clockwise (loosen inj. pipes first) . Mark the original position first .

hope this is useful

 

Steve b

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As above, but take off the air filter, too, and run it without the oil in it. The oil on the gauze will be enough filter unless it is VERY dusty.

Refill with oil after test.

Run clean new oil, but on the minimum mark.

You might need to get the injectors refreshed, find am injection specialist to test the spray pattern and renew the tips if necessary.

A tank of the expensive premium diesel, and maybe a splash of kerosene.

But the Italian tune up is best. Once the engine is hot then tap the exhaust with a rubber mallet to shake the soot loose, then a long hot burn to really burn the junk off.

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You could always fit a modern engine

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_sam/

Landy.JPG.0543b82e6ba2a0818ca53792cb9b7c62.JPG

Seriously though, is the smoke black or blue?  If it's black you're looking at the fuel system, loads of good advice above.  If it's blue then you're looking at pistons, rings, bores valve guides.

I'm not a fan of magic potions but an oil additive may get you through the test.

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1 hour ago, steve b said:

Do you have smoke when driving as it is ?

Check all the obvious - clean diesel filter , clean oil at correct level in the air filter , tappet clearances correct . Maybe  some injector clean in the tank , not something I bother with but others certainly do .

 Last but by no means least is the injector pump timing good ?  the 2 1/4 diesel suffers from retarded timing due to wear in the skew gear that drives it from the camshaft , when bad enough it shows as blue smoke/haze when driving . To advance timing turn the pump body clockwise (loosen inj. pipes first) . Mark the original position first .

 hope this is useful

 

Steve b

yep thats helpful. As i've had my hands on the chassis, bearings etc I have no other engine experience as to replace filters.

Should have feeler gauges around here somewhere. And how to to pump timing? just advance a little and see if there's less smoke?

Car always smokes, when up hill or high speed downhill I always hope noone is watching.... that's the worst. 

Top speed 60 kp/h at flat road only a mild smoke.

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2 minutes ago, rtbarton said:

You could always fit a modern engine

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_sam/

 

Seriously though, is the smoke black or blue?  If it's black you're looking at the fuel system, loads of good advice above.  If it's blue then you're looking at pistons, rings, bores valve guides.

 I'm not a fan of magic potions but an oil additive may get you through the test.

in my opinion it's black, don't feel/smells like I'm burning engine oil. (have seen those driving around France and think I'd recognise that smell by now) 

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31 minutes ago, rtbarton said:

Does it smoke downhill on overrun?

yes, and quite a bit to my supprise. I expected no load = no smoke..

And (like with the test), when stationary and no gear. A smash on the pedal would easily paint your dog 100% black.

Edited by xychix

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1 hour ago, xychix said:

yep thats helpful. As i've had my hands on the chassis, bearings etc I have no other engine experience as to replace filters.

Should have feeler gauges around here somewhere. And how to to pump timing? just advance a little and see if there's less smoke?  Yes , a little at a time , the available adjustment in the slot will keep you safe .

Car always smokes, when up hill or high speed downhill I always hope noone is watching.... that's the worst. 

Top speed 60 kp/h at flat road only a mild smoke.

 As Gazzar said no oil in the air filter and low oil level may help , I do think you will get the most difference from setting the pump timing .

It is highly unlikely it is correct given the age of the Land Rover . When it's right it should sound crisp but not loud diesel knock .( there is a proper procedure to do this detailed in the factory manual involving flywheel marks and removing the small steel cover on the side of the pump body to access the pump timing marks )

Do you have full throttle travel from the pedal to the pump arm ? 60kph is not fast enough even for a 2 1/4 diesel , one other thing , does it have the brake servo vacuum flap on the inlet manifold near the air intake hose ? If it does it needs to work properly as set wrong it can close the air intake at full throttle

cheers

Steve b

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Just now, steve b said:

 As Gazzar said no oil in the air filter and low oil level may help , I do think you will get the most difference from setting the pump timing .

 It is highly unlikely it is correct given the age of the Land Rover . When it's right it should sound crisp but not loud diesel knock .( there is a proper procedure to do this detailed in the factory manual involving flywheel marks and removing the small steel cover on the side of the pump body to access the pump timing marks )

 Do you have full throttle travel from the pedal to the pump arm ? 60kph is not fast enough even for a 2 1/4 diesel , one other thing , does it have the brake servo vacuum flap on the inlet manifold near the air intake hose ? If it does it needs to work properly as set wrong it can close the air intake at full throttle

 cheers

Steve b

Thanks all for al this info, feel like a newbie again getting 'closer' to engine work.

Steve, the vacuum flap is tied on open position as I've installed a Hella UP28 electric vacuumpump to assist with braking. Works like a charm (more info on that in a previous post of mine here).

Timing is likely the thing, given even me (as newbie) has found and reset plenty of 'bad repairs' in all sections of this car. (will check the pedal movement first though as thats the easy bit).

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As I typed the bit about the vac. flap I thought you had gone electric but wanted to check

keep us posted

 

Steve

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Will sure keep u all posted. As I'm also having friends over, planning a week with the family, getting 7.5 m3 of beton for a terras and having to put a PU floor in my living room it might take a few weeks ;)

again, tnx for all the knowledge!

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Having had a 2.25 diesel, they are VERY sensitive to pump timing. Adjustment is not difficult, just time consuming. You need to slacken the 3 bolts which secure the pump to the engine, then you need to very slightly loosen the injector pipes at both the pump and the injector. Then you can move the pump to line up the timing pointer with the line engraved on the pump mounting foot.

Black smoke generally indicates timing too far advanced, other colours (especially on over run) suggest retarded timing. 

Continuous black smoke would lead me to suspect the injectors, the 2.25 can be a very clean running engine, without any smoke visible at all.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-3-Defender-Diesel-Fuel-Injector-564332-2-25L-2-5L-NA-TD/122928998309?epid=1027494738&hash=item1c9f23a7a5:g:PDwAAOSwtXtbA9oi

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well all, as can be seen from the last post I've been away for a while.

First of,. all my carp... as in EVERYTING to the last spanner, got stolen.

By now I have my basics back together, only now we're running a retired Hatz E79 for a generator meaning I'm already covered in oil before touching the landy....
Hope to have a better gen before summer.

Will be back at the site end of this month, will do a 4 days offroad trip with some friends but will take the Hilux for that ;)

Hope to get the pump set better and will try and flush some injector cleaner trough. These seem the easy ones. Next up the list should likely be the timing chain. Is there a clear procedure on checking that for slack?

Pretty sure my pedal steers the full throttle of the pump. At 60 It's screaming so hard that even the cows run away.
Maybe compare Revs / KM;'s with someone just to make sure that the landy wasn't given shorter high gear box for the travels it's likely done in Africa?
  

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First job to do when messing with the pump is to replace the timing chain, they stretch and then you can never get the timing right

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