xychix Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 (edited) please don't tell me there's no need to go the extra mile 🤪 got everything I'm familiar with out of the way. All of this I've touched before (apart from radiotor but as the front already had lost 3 out of 4 bolts it was easy removed as a complete unit. Edited March 19, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Satisfying work. It's a good opportunity to get some rust treatment on the chassis, and the footwells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 In and outlet manifold and diesel pipes got off VERY easy. doubt if any of those was tighter than 30nm... Question, is the butterfly valve in the inlet soly for brake vacuum or does it serve any other purpose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Yes , just for the servo vacuum so can be removed . cheers Steve b 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 (edited) told u all this was going to be slow! if you want to follow what I do I bet you even have time to buy a series and still keep up removed rocker cover, there appears to be 1 bolt missing! can I replace this with any bolt with matching thread? Or is this a part-number I can order? (it wasn't to be found under the cover...) rocker cover was hand tight! really hand tight as in I did NOT need any tools to remove them... 🤪 Edited April 2, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Part no. 525390 from my 2a parts book but it looks the same part through to 90/110 era . It is special with a pin to locate in the rocker shaft . Have a look in the sump , it's possible its found it's way there and check in each pushrod hole too cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 From memory, the rocker shaft has to be 'located' (held in one place) so the oil feed holes can line up. This enables the oil to flow inside the shaft to each rocker central bearing, and also to the rocker tips. Running with the shaft misaligned means no appropriate oil flow, and a significantly high wear rate. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 I didn't realise the rockers for different cylinders were different! Sorry. Just noticed on the parts book. Does this help? I wonder how much oil was being lost out that hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 3, 2020 Author Share Posted April 3, 2020 if the rockerchaft is 1 piece of 2 pieces still aligned it should be fine as positioning goes, more to the left the other bolt is still in place holding the shaft. Thanks for the screenshot! will order a new one (or atleast put it on the order list ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 I agree, one special bolt will hold it. I'm concerned that the oil will escape out where the missing bolt should have been fitted. That will drop your oil pressure. I'd have a look at your cam shaft, if you are willing to get deeper into the engine. There are inspection plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 A question on the fuel-pump. Is 1 turn on the bottom shaft of the pump also a full turn in the pump? (all 4 cyliners) Meaning, would it matter how often the bottom shaft is turned before the fuel pump would be placed back on the block? It will only fit in 1 position due to a notch in the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Which pump? The little one that lifts the fuel to the filter? Or the big one that squirts diesel in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 (edited) I was talking about the big main pump that is connected to the injectors. Had it off, cleaned it and loosly placed it back on not to loos any parts. Only thing I'm not sure about if my injection order would be messed up if the input shaft has rotated 360 degreed while cleaning. Edited April 4, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 No , it's one turn of the Injector pump for two turns of the crank - same as a petrol distributor and as you say it has a master spline in the drive gear so it will only go in one place cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 (edited) 9 minutes ago, steve b said: No , it's one turn of the Injector pump for two turns of the crank - same as a petrol distributor and as you say it has a master spline in the drive gear so it will only go in one place cheers Steve b Thanks! coulnd't find any details on this in the manual Which I unfortunately only have in french (paper) and PDF in english, but oil hands and expensive macbook aren't friends. Edited April 4, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 (edited) Slowly cleaning the engine area and finding more and more oily gunk. Taking the fly wheel inspection latch of I found the inside covered in a thick layer of oil.... 😕 In doubt now if I should try and get the complete engine out..😮😮.. this way I'll not be able to find the timing mark right? Sofar I've only found 2 bolts that will snap when I would be persistent on removing them. 1 is in the thermostat housing, the other is the 3rd bolt (the one that comes from the firewall side) of the dynamo mount. Edited April 5, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 also oneother question, is it normal that one of the timing-cover-bolts runs al the way into 'oil territory?' Note how the bolt on the left bottom side has an oil seep from it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 Last question first , yes that bolt goes through to the block , the other 3 (lower right) that go through to the block like lots of anti-seize paste as water can get down the bolt. The oil under the flywheel cover plate looks like engine oil , most likely to be the rear main seal . Removing the engine will not cause any problems as all the timing parts are within the engine , it will make it a whole lot easier to fix all the external oil leaks and of course it needs to come out to do the rear main seal . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 (edited) also just realise the big nut at the crankshaft has to come off... put it in gear, a socket or Adjustable Wrench on it and a whack with the hammer? (a rough pull didn't help, with car in 4th it just moved backwards a bit.) Only appear to have a 41mm socket (to small) and a 46mm (to big) is it a normal thread (counter clockwise to loosen)? and thereafter I'd need a camshaft extrator.... 507231.... hmmm I don't even have a normal pully puller... Edited April 5, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 Do you have an impact wrench? It's an imperial socket required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 On 4/5/2020 at 9:08 PM, Gazzar said: Do you have an impact wrench? It's an imperial socket required. I do have an impact wrench, just not the sockets this size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 Ah. eBay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Gazzar said: Ah. eBay? Unlikely to arrive at my current site in France. Might be able to get my hands on one. But as to the procedure. In gear and a decent whack or shock should loosen it? Or am I missing something there already? What size should I buy? will have to try and source something Edited April 7, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 (edited) LOL... https://www.cdiscount.com/le-sport/velos-tandem-tricycle-monocycle-remorque-casque/vtc-3-4-drive-2-5-8-43mm-impact-socket-hot-fo/f-121192303-mp26749848.html#mpos=0|mp just found one in France 108 euro's.... 😕 and one more affordable on Ebay with expected delivery time 28th off may 🤪 Love my cottage in France but not due the adoption of modern 'online' markets... another edit: managed to find a impact socket, heading my way. expecting it at the end of the month. I'll already build a shopping list for parts that I expect to need for the timing chain change. I'd rather first open it alle up and build a list from there but given the weird delivery delays I feel like getting the order out asap. Hope you guys will have a look on the list and be able to mention stuff I might have missed. Edited April 7, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 2.25 petrol/diesel timing chain - OEM SKU : ETC4499G 2.25 petrol/diesel timing chain camshaft wheel - REPLACEMENT SKU : ETC5551 2.25 petrol/diesel timing chain crankshaft wheel - REPLACEMENT SKU : 568333 2.25/2.5D/2.5TD/200TDI front timing cover gasket - REPLACEMENT SKU : 538039 Crankshaft oil seal front SII/SIII, 2.5 D/TD/200TDI/V8 SKU : ERR6490G 2.25 petrol/diesel damper for timing chain - REPLACEMENT SKU : 275234 Water pump non viscous 2.25L SKU : STC3758 2.25 petrol ou diesel cylinder timing chain tensioner - REPLACEMENT SKU : 277388 As I'm not sure what I'll find and need behind the cover... what the $%^ is this: Spring for Timing Ratchet 2.25 and 2 Litre Diesel SKU : 267451 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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