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reb78

D3 - front lower arms - which bushes

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I need to do the bushes on the front lower arms on the D3. Changing the arm seems to be common place but is more money than changing the bushes. I have done bushes on the 110 myself so think I can do it on the D3 fine once the arms are removed.

The question is, what bushes as there are a fair number to choose from?

Genuine

Delphi

Meyle

Lemforder

These seem to be the commonly available ones - any preferences? Lemforder are the cheapest, Delphi and Meyle are not too expensive, genuine are a fair bit of money and in this instance only, it might work out cheaper to buy the arms with the bushes pre-fitted 

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I had lemforder steering/trackrod kit  a while back for the P38 and wouldn't rate the quality, not the same thing I know. I have had other Delphi ball joints and reckoned they were fair value.

There is a polybush option, which I hear suits the D3 a bit better than perhaps it does a Defender??

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I had the local garage change both of the lower arms and the ride was very much better, it cost £400 though. Make sure the steering drop links are all right because slack in those can ruin the new ball joints and the whole job will need to be done again.

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What bushes were in them^^^^ i dont want to change the whole arm because I have the gear to change the bushes in the current arms.

I never hear great things about Polybushes so tend to avoid them

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regardless of brand i wouldnt worry, all the ones you mention are quality parts. they chew bushes up for a pass time, youll usually feel a thud when jabbing the brakes hard as the wheel moves back in the arch. easily visable you get someone to brake and watch the wheel. as for poly bushes. no thanks. seems to hit a miss for quality.

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There is a knock if you hit the brakes at walking pace - hence planning the job. A lot of folks seem to go for Meyle so I might give these a go. 

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I thought changing the arms complete was well worth it as it's sooo much less faff... also I thought the popular ones were the uprated ones from the armoured D3's which are more robust and not much more money.

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Posted (edited)

It saves a fortune doing it yourself unless you buy genuine bushes when it works out as cheap to buy the arms with them ready fitted. I have sorned the D3 for a month to sort out a few things

Edited by reb78

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A special tool is needed to change the bushes which most shops do not carry hence changing the complete arms as in the end it works out only marginally more expensive.

If you have the expensive tools or know a shop that has them then Advanced Factors sell suitable bushes - I would definitely stay away from the poly bushes - yes they work well but ride is awful.  MEYLE brand sold by Advanced Factors are considered the best.

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/steering--suspension-12-c.asp

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr051585-53-146100001-meyle-front-lower-suspension-arm-front-bush-rbx500311-1724-p.asp

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What's the tool Gary? I hadnt heard about this before. Most land rover special tools can be improvised in my experience so I wonder if that's true for this one?

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Standard pullers and presses do not work and a special kit is needed - is not a LR kit - here is one example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvhQ0OuZft0

https://mthire.com.au/products/land-rover-control-arm-bush-tool-discovery-3-range-rover-sport

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6180

Just google Discovery 3 lower control arm bush tool and you will see plenty of options.

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The arms for the Armoured D3 are the same as the RRSport arms IIRC. I was lazy and bought a set of arms from Advanced Factors.
Their press is (or was) in the hallway next to the coffee machine, if Steve isn't looking you might be able to press the bushes there and then ;)

@reb78  I might still have the old arms in the shed - if you're passing the office sometime and want them, I could have a look.

Also, make sure you know where you're going for an alignment job before you get started... Turned out the D3 wouldn't fit under the roof of my local place, and I ended up driving to the other side of Salisbury on a very icy day, with the full complement of warning lights and Bong!s, and the TC going nuts on every roundabout :blink:

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Oooo. Your old arms could be handy if you still have them. What bushes were in the arms you used Dave?

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23 hours ago, garrycol said:

Standard pullers and presses do not work and a special kit is needed - is not a LR kit - here is one example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvhQ0OuZft0

https://mthire.com.au/products/land-rover-control-arm-bush-tool-discovery-3-range-rover-sport

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6180

Just google Discovery 3 lower control arm bush tool and you will see plenty of options.

Looking at the videos, I have a fair number of those tools - I habe the SP hydraulic piller they are using and a number of spacers/press tools so hopefully what I have should be suficient

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16 hours ago, reb78 said:

Oooo. Your old arms could be handy if you still have them. What bushes were in the arms you used Dave?

Had a rummage this morning and it looks like I chucked the old arms :( Sorry to raise false hope. It was probably 4-5 years back that I changed them.

I can't remember which bushes were in the arms I bought, but probably Lemforder. Don't think I would have bought genuine, and I almost certainly would have chosen Lemforder over Meyle.

The bushes had already been changed once by LR dealer under warranty at under 60k, the current ones have done over 60k with no sign of them knocking yet (unlike the ARB bushes at the moment!)

Try giving AF a ring and asking them what mandrels they use - as I remember at one time they were pressing a lot of bushes (though into new bare arms, so not needing to remove first) with a largish floorstanding press. Bigger than my puny 10T, but not huge.

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Thanks for having a look Dave, i appreciate it. Do you know if we need to remove the driveshaft from the hub on all D3 models? I saw a video online yesterday that showed you could just unhook the ball joint but other guides suggest it is too tight.

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Pretty sure I didn't remove the driveshaft, though it isn't that hard anyway.

You'll need a pickle fork type balljoint splitter, and an angle grinder to adjust it to size. One of mine was too large to get in there, and the other burst as the joint is wider than the typical LR one.

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Great. Thanks for that. The vid I watched online swapped a complete arm in 20 mins - I bet I cant do it that quickly!!

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