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Defender 110, a Bedford cf and a utility truck walk into a bar...


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12 minutes ago, Badger110 said:

You make it sound like I'll be charging people to come along for the ride Stephen :lol:

Who wouldn't want to if they could regards Stephen

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2 hours ago, Badger110 said:

I am now fending off the wife's new love for the truck of wanting to bolt carp to it, but I do agree that while the tyres are good for the time being I do want to get some new ones soon as the rears are running a little low.

 

She wanted to go the route of Sawtooth's and I wanted Blindos, but I'm sticking to my guns and keeping the Wolf's as they are a good wheel and well, why not?

 

Tyre choices are so many and I'm along the lines of 255/85/16 size or thereabouts, the XYZ's are great but a little skinny and yes, I am being bit vain here, it would be nice to have something that is easily picked up and looks like it fits the arches for a defender and not a series.

 

There are many many threads on tyre choices and I've read a fair few but feel free to chip in with your thoughts on a tyre which will be good for long travelling with decent off road ability :D 

 

 

 

Oh and I've registered a web name for our travel website/blog idea...

 

I'll let you come up with a guess as to what it is 

Drone and Vomits travels. Com lol regards Stephen

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Brilliant, but not quite ;)

 

After one evening sitting there in the workshop, covered in green overspray, slightly high from the fumes and tired and on my 6th coffee staring at the bonnet it came to me that a cool idea would be to rearrange the letters of Land Rover and use that as a future name for our travels.

 

 OverLandR.co.uk was born.

 

Although I do think some of the ideas have been worthy of a sub section :lol:

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Thank you for lifting your top....... the result looks pretty professional! Wasn't quite sure when you started how it was all going to come together, but it really has.

I think I've seen you driving around already...

8483100607_42a2d4c238_b.jpg

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When I fitted the aux tank in the OS rear quarter, it protrudes slightly into the wheel arch area, nothing to worry about as when the wheel goes up it doesn't touch it, but I won't be fitting 37" beasties anytime soon!

 

However looking at replacing the current XZL 7.5's, I wanted to work out what size in metric will not go beyond the same circumference as the current tyre.

 

In metric, the size is 190/107/R16 for the XZL's which I worked out by measuring the tyre width ( 190mm ) the sidewall ( 200mm ) and it's a 16" rim.

 

255/85/16 has a sidewall size of 200mm and will provide a better fill to the arches without me worrying about it hitting the aux tank and are suited for the wolf rims.

 

 

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We got 255/85x16 on the wife's 110 never had any trouble with them rubbing, however whilst we do have an aux tank it's under the drivers seat. Personally I'd put some on and see given your truck I doubt serious off road is going to be a problem. If they do touch it'll be nothing a big hammer  some panel beating can't solve.

Mike

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19 hours ago, landroversforever said:

255/85R16 is a lovely size on a defender. Big enough for most stuff, but not so big you need to faff with gearing or chopping arches. What kind of idiot ditches them for 37" :unsure: :P :lol: 

Exactly!  It's half an inch bigger in radius than a standard 7.50 or 235/85, two and a half inches wider than a 7.50 but less than an inch wider than a 235/85 and causes no problems in normal Land Rovers.  Most Land Rovers I have fitted them to have worked really well with them and the speedos become more accurate (the exception was a Series 2a that had too much rim offset).  

37s cause severe clearance problems and break transmission components that might have lasted decades.  They're only good for people with serious off-road problems to overcome, who also have very deep wallets for upgrading axles etc., or posers.  We don't have any posers on this forum.

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As I now have all 4 doors as I wanted, it is time to finish the interior of them

 

To start with, I wanted to reinstall the central locking for the front doors, the 2nd row would prove to be a tad difficult and it's not a biggie if they aren't on the key fob.

 

I took an old lock and split it open to see if I could create a similar set up to the rear door lock ( which has a central locking pin ) but after some hacking about, it wasn't happening without making a hash of it...ask me how I know :P

 

The simplest idea was to attach a rod to the locking latch from the actuator.  


I'll post pics tomorrow.

 

I replaced the amp and sub with an all in one flat unit, great bits of kit and now I was able to re instate the 3rd leisure battery.

under the rear seat box is 

3 leisure batteries ( 260Ah total )

A shunt with digital read out

A MPPT

Split charger 

 

A few pics and yes I know the Neg busbar is wonky, I did that to upset those with OCD :P

420833B0-B5EE-49A5-A361-4879B24EE65C.thumb.jpeg.80e7ef2026af66246845e81f76b04ccf.jpeg

9E6FF443-1E37-4655-A9FE-44F1EBB2970C.thumb.jpeg.6411428a018aed839514534ae317d1c6.jpeg

249FD71B-8498-4C34-BF9D-73D0E22D6A42.thumb.jpeg.3c21fc0e21615dd889e047db785b15d4.jpeg

 

The PSW inverter is housed under the drivers seat and is a bit overkill now.  I bought it originally to power a domestic fridge, but it draws too much power so ditched it for a Dometic draw unit.

 

The rear fuse board is attached to Batt 3 as well as the Arb compressor.  

 

The split charge is a simple Victron Cyrix with battery to battery join for the starting battery should I need it.  

 

The MPPT deals with the 180W panel on the roof.

 

The battery monitor and shunt is a amazon special ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Monitor-Voltmeter-Motorhome-Lead-Acid/dp/B07CTKYFTG/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2XLS5C8V8KSBF&dchild=1&keywords=12v+battery+monitor+with+shunt&qid=1615325221&sprefix=12v+battery+monitor%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-7 )  does what it says on the tin.  The neg is straight to the busbar and everything attaches to that.  This is then straight to the Earth point by the battery box.

 

It's all worked for the past year or so, I went from 3 batteries down to 2, then back to 3.  Even during the winter and dull days the system doesn't drop too much if I leave the truck alone for a week, I think the worst was 12.7v.

 

The batteries themselves are 2 Haze 85Ah Gel and a single ambulance 90Ah AGM.   I've looked at LifePo batteries, but at the moment the system works so no real need to change it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Badger110 said:

It's too wet n windy for any pictures of the actuators I promised, so here's one of a Bulldog, because, well why the hell not :D

 

48DEBE2E-01A0-4408-87AB-3F6055D2DA11.jpeg.c422d47ca06aa0c52de6e0901afa897e.jpeg

 

 

Your 110 has slimmed down :P 

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In between hailstorms, high winds and sunshine I managed a pic before I decide on how to cover this lot

 

681BF719-6BB6-4BF9-B88A-79C1B40060A2.jpeg.cbf127085ca677ed55d757d234a9a2f3.jpeg
 

 

received the V5 back from the DVLA with colour change, unfortunately

 

’ christonabikeitsgreen’

 

is not an official colour so it’s now registered as just green :D

Also changed the seats from 5 to 2

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I've spent the last 3 nights in the truck and it has been very pleasant.  

 

Keeping it warm without the Webasto going isn't really possible, even with all the insulation and curtains/shields at the windows, it's still cold, but what did I expect given it's still not fully finished inside and there are gaps at the base of the doors still on the NS.

 

It is comfy though, the full width sofa is nice, the bed is great and the interior cupboards are doing their job. 

 

I'm still not happy with the plumbing...I made it too complicated for what It is and it's nice to have a sliding worktop with sink and tap, but I've shown myself that a bottle or small tank with a tap does just a good a job and is much less to go wrong.

 

Carpet tiles are a god send as a mishap with a bottle of water caused a wet patch which was easily dried out by removing one tile and leaving it in the sun.

 

The Webasto is noisy on the intake so I shall route that to draw from the outside...I have an idea of where it can go.

 

It is properly cosy in here now and I'm pleased with what I've achieved with it so far...the colour draws attention which is to be expected!

 

One issue on the drive up here is the entire truck is pulling to the left now, I can't see any major issues underneath, tyre pressures are spot on, but I did have a rack rod end replaced on last mot, so I'll do the other ones and set it back up.  Brake callipers were replaced not long ago too.  When I was investigating the brake bind issue, I have noticed the entire steering does clunk when turning at times and that does point to a track rod end giving up.

 

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13 minutes ago, Badger110 said:

I'm still not happy with the plumbing...I made it too complicated for what It is and it's nice to have a sliding worktop with sink and tap, but I've shown myself that a bottle or small tank with a tap does just a good a job and is much less to go wrong.

There's a lot to be said for simple!

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Just now, FridgeFreezer said:

There's a lot to be said for simple!

I completely agree and I'm usually one for doing so, but sometimes I need to know if something is possible and can I do it...so I end up with something rather swanky but then I sit back and go ' sod it ' and ditch it for the simple solution.

 

I think it's the thrill of making/creating it in the first place...I'm like it at work when something needs building.

I'll try the impossible, create the probable, but don't ask me to make more than one as the enthusiasm is lost after the first one!

 

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I’ve been looking at carrying extra fuel for future trips and having a twin jerrycan set up has been great in the past, it’s not a great way to carry fuel as it’s bulky.

 

Rotapax do a slimline 5 gallon ( 20litre ) jobby which isn’t cheap so I dogged around until I found a similar idea much cheaper.  
 

The containers are 800mm x 300mm x 100mm and carry 20litres and come in an attractive green colour.

 

The idea was to undersling them so I set to work to come up with an idea to mount them out of the way and keep the centre of gravity low.

 

I made a simple frame from 30mm x 4mm steel 

090562C1-E525-4717-9CB6-2FBD54FFBAB5.jpeg.7e3b2aa9359ef57281caf845b3c2bfed.jpeg

 

after this I used threaded bar to make the clamping points 

 

600E348C-AAC2-46E6-A0BD-D9410C91CCB1.jpeg.d998d241e88f6a4b5e9ed87a7a305685.jpeg

 

and then clamped the Fuel containers using a aluminium plate to hole in place.

 

262D6589-DEA8-4857-9838-1C2C8420FAB1.jpeg.c842d70c5f1b112ebacb80b8b20ee0a7.jpeg

 

this allows a low profile fuel container at 100mm or 4” to be mounted.

 

I will look at a simpler way of locking it into position rather than nylon lock nuts, but this worked.  
 

I have used what we call cow mat which is a 18mm soft rubber mat cut In half to reduce vibration issues 

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F234B53A-5DB1-4128-A502-77AD01B995BB.jpeg

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It does and although I was looking a similar idea for the Jerry cans, this works much better.

 

unless you bend down and look underneath you’d never know they were there... :ph34r:

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I have no idea, they came up on eBay for £45 each which is a steal as Rotapax ones are over £100 each.  

 

The seller ( a charity ) only had 4 available, so I had 2 and the others went 5 minutes later!

 

 

The NS will be a little different as I have the battery tray to contend with

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A slightly better picture 

 

D572A3C0-7E63-45D3-806D-6A354E9A52C3.jpeg.9ab8c05228d48b1cd8b48e6ff663dfe1.jpeg
 

Next job is one that has been put off for sometime and that is to tackle the slight oil leak...

 

A86949EE-1AE9-4691-B387-2A90F6E50B48.jpeg.01164de5ec5092d022a00f45a2e4a8f8.jpeg
 

After the trip last week it’s progressing well 

711A9F5D-D8C7-4E8F-87AD-C4694E918BF5.jpeg.1983e50b86da0c3b5d9cf179d3d2b8cb.jpeg
 

Im able to keep the truck off the road this week which gives me time to investigate and get some parts in as and when needed.

 

I believe the entire issue is down to the injectors not seated/worn washers, if this is the case then I’ll be doing the timing chain as well

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