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Defender 110, a Bedford cf and a utility truck walk into a bar...


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31 minutes ago, Arjan said:

Normal nuts and R-clips come to mind to lock that in place...

Nice work !

Not a bad call on the clips, it'll stop the bugger coming undone.

 

It would be nice to come up with something that doesn't require a tool to release possibly?

 

 

With regards to the rust proofing of the exterior of the engine ( ie the oil leak ) I removed the injectors and the rocker cover to come up with some interesting finds.

 

The injector nearest the bulkhead was covered in carbon carp 

0680C1D2-9B63-4898-904F-54368CDD8D63.thumb.jpeg.d4557ea4dbecfbe221d899657921e2f0.jpegF2542D02-CF93-44C2-9F94-3B154DD132E1.thumb.jpeg.0dbd54db0886720e3c968e57e8aa6c47.jpeg

 

although the copper washer doesn't look too bad and neither do the other 3.

 

Whipping out my camera I poked it down the injector bore to see how the seat looked and was presented with this;

 

BMPP0002.JPG.a8f67eec5bb9450e82f6a4a3c8d01f66.JPGBMPP0003.JPG.e8671e8a5d758b974d8b92f273ea7c8d.JPG

 

The rest are similar;

BMPP0005.JPG.acedd4a940da562d5a0199487cc8f5cf.JPGBMPP0006.JPG.ae17cf8f31a7748e114d14d58d2a615d.JPGBMPP0004.JPG.b103736d56956f75f4df83af4e1e58a5.JPG

 

I can order a tool and get the faces cleaned but of course there's the issue of carp falling into the cylinder.  The bores are pretty filthy and whatever has been floating around in there has gotten everywhere inside the camshaft area.

 

I think the only course of action from here is to whip off the camshaft housing and then the head and get it all done without worrying about contamination in the cylinders plus I can get a nosey at the state of the bores & pistons etc.

 

It does mean the timing chain can be done at the same time.

 

 

 

 

 

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Having a read up on this, it's not necessary to remove the head it seems as the reaming/cleaning kits come with a plug to stop this happening.

 

I've ordered one and we shall see :)

 

I've also ordered the timing chain, front cover and associated bits n pieces to do this.

 

It's now time to strip it all out

 

 

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7 hours ago, Badger110 said:

A slightly better picture 

 

D572A3C0-7E63-45D3-806D-6A354E9A52C3.jpeg.9ab8c05228d48b1cd8b48e6ff663dfe1.jpeg
 

 

 

That is a better picture, just thinking out of the box a wee bit, could you not rig something up similar to the retractable steps on a Motorhome where by you only have to pull it out and it moves down with the action and vice versa for it to go back into position, could even be electrified,and also I would recommend some thought into choice of materials as you don't want whatever system you use to get rusted/ corroded with all the carp of the day being sprayed up off the tyres regards Stephen

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

That is a better picture, just thinking out of the box a wee bit, could you not rig something up similar to the retractable steps on a Motorhome where by you only have to pull it out and it moves down with the action and vice versa for it to go back into position, could even be electrified,and also I would recommend some thought into choice of materials as you don't want whatever system you use to get rusted/ corroded with all the carp of the day being sprayed up off the tyres regards Stephen

Not a bad idea for this side as it does sit higher, the NS will sit level with the bottom of the rock slider due to the battery box.

 

It would be fairly simple to achieve that too...

 

7 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Thinking of your tank mount.... what about some hinges straps with over-centre catches? Like you get on the sides of a transit tipper. If you’re worried about them pinging undone, you can get them with a hole for an Rclip. 

you’ll have to show me a picture as I’m not sure what you mean :wacko: :) 

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Moving on with the grubby stuff, the engine is becoming more and more stripped out and now we’re at the point of waiting for a delivery from turners & britcar to begin the rebuild....it’s the little things you don’t think of you need like bolts etc...I reckon it’s cost me about £110 in replacement bolts!

I also found a hardcore spider who has been living next to the block for however long judging by his web.

Here he is coming up for a nosy

 

6EDD83F2-5C96-4F14-B273-DCF291A2E899.jpeg.e06398c0903a4d6b1d84820bf38136ba.jpeg

 

 

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A big expensive box of shiny engine bits arrived today, it's a shame most of it will never see the light of day as it'll squashed or within the head!

 

I dropped off the camshaft carrier, rocker cover and air intake manifold to be cleaned as well...this has now put me in the position to whip the bottom out of the engine bay and clean that to get rid of the oil and look at the clutch whilst I''m there.

 

Why do we do these things and escalate a simple timing chain/injector reseat into a strip the engine and whip it out the engine bay!

 

On a side note, a set of OME shocks arrived today from @SteveG but ended up at the post office as I wasn't in, so I have them to fit whilst waiting for the head to be finished :D

 

More shiny stuff!
 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 3/23/2021 at 5:11 PM, Wytze said:

That's a supervisor spider..  😁

Is that part# RTC5915 Spider, engine, supervisory (hardy) ? It's been a long time since I brushed up on the official LRS thread... :ph34r:

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A few side by side pics of the timing chain and guide

39433BA3-5C10-4F0A-8CF1-12D794B12695.jpeg.3b785ebbd8cdf945fb2bec35529f5b86.jpeg
 

882C2FB9-4973-4AF2-B4DE-A8B49A20CD74.jpeg.1c153a0436732ed10f42a87ec5953106.jpeg

 

The wear on the main guide is evident and it looks like it’s been replaced with a different material.

 

The chain is a tad stretched but this could be perfectly normal

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I’ve just replaced the cam chain on a Honda CR-V. They stretch over time and then either rattle and become so noisy that you can’t ignore, or the timing moves enough to throw an error code. 
I imagine there’s a stretch specification limit but having got that far you’d just replace anyway wouldn’t you. 🙂

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3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Is that part# RTC5915 Spider, engine, supervisory (hardy) ? It's been a long time since I brushed up on the official LRS thread... :ph34r:

I tried finding it the other night to post here, but only came up with answers relating to the Alarm spider :( 

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A slight ‘ oh bother ‘ moment when I slipped with the ratchet whilst removing the bolt securing the bell housing to the block and smashed into a bracket which then felt it was time to break free from said bell housingF5111462-4229-4EA5-A597-A258238F7207.jpeg.ed125250a050c94b74c141265eab052a.jpeg4F57BF39-2D06-40E8-86BF-60E7FA1334FF.jpeg.6b0520be8f389b70f3cadb5adf98f9d6.jpeg

 

Fortunately it’s not a critical part and I’ll find something to fix it back with and make a bracket up that will bolt to the bodywork rather than the bell housing and we’ll say no more about it.

 

Tis but a flesh wound 

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My guess is this little fecker isn’t meant to be in there...

 

AE76CF22-1C39-41C6-9E1C-A484A3DB032E.jpeg.e040a8d83c91ae3cfa3ebb29bf108d30.jpeg
 

 

The clutch was done 50k ago so I’m not too worried about replacing it, however I split the block and gearbox because I wanted to check the rear crankshaft seal and I’m glad I did.

 

looks like the spigot bearing has given up doing its job

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It was one of those bolts that really didn't want to come out and was only accessible with a knuckle on the ratchet, so a pig.  I was swinging off it with an extension bar when it slipped.

I then snapped 2 more bolts so they've welded in well.

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Rebuild has begun, cleaning the oil off everything has been a task but is making it worth while.

Ive opted for a new water pump, not because the other one had anything wrong with it but it’s an item which can wear over time. 
 

The head has been reconditioned too

7273FE20-30BC-4985-9F1E-6BC8A85E1CFA.jpeg.bf84fb591b2ad3e5fea3b6104a624fa4.jpeg

 

Had some broken studs to remove, one came off with a nut welded on, the other had to be drilled out

 

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I also got the spigot bush out with an old bolt head and some thought.  I picked up a replacement rear crank seal only to find it was a BP jobby, so I shall pick up an original tomorrow as the clutch is coming from Ashcroft tomorrow as well

 

14FFAA05-5ACA-4F3A-A47E-74657974F2B3.jpeg.c547ccc99a50d12750e7e6ee53c88998.jpeg

 

 

I’m hoping to get the clutch, flywheel, cams and timing chain and cover on tomorrow, then it’ll be gearbox and transfer on and you never know, it might be ready to go in by Friday 😁

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12 hours ago, Badger110 said:

I also got the spigot bush out with an old bolt head and some thought.

Soak some news paper in water, stuff it in the bush and use a bolt/old spigot shaft to drive it out. Thick grease will also work if the clearance is not too big.

The newspaper will hydraulic the bush out, it will likely need a few refills, but in general, it works nicely.

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The clutch arrived today from Ashcroft 

66FF74DE-9C5D-40A3-B25C-262376F3F62D.jpeg.c01b160d2fbac710d5e41280dc081ece.jpeg
 

It’s a clutch fix jobby which has had good reviews so I’m confident it’ll live up to to its reputation.

 

Timing chain all done too

4B5529A8-58A0-4102-9B62-3C02B0EF9A1B.jpeg.f3d4c4e89296602af348905806888847.jpeg
 

Any thoughts on the state of the fins in the turbo or would you feel this is normal wear n tear?  There is no play in it, just rough edges 

6E6547CA-3CC9-4E24-8464-98CE1C202AAB.jpeg.1a5b523312402c1d30fdea789c34e67e.jpeg

 

 

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