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Defender 110, a Bedford cf and a utility truck walk into a bar...


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  • 2 weeks later...

Tracing an odd oil leak has thrown up a wet oil patch here

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what I don’t understand is why this area is wet with old blackish oil ( several oil changes since the rebuild so most oil weeps I’ve found are clearer ) 

 

The egr valve sits in front of it which contains no oil and I can’t see a trace of oil from behind the head so I’m stumped...

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Not that I can tell...the small opening to the right is the bell housing but that’s not showing any signs of oil from the bottom where you’d expect it with a leaking rear seal.

 

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hehe not sure It was worth it with the hassle I've had since!

 

Now the truck will drop fuel pressure when it gets to temperature and conk out.

 

Before that, it runs perfectly. I'm stumped as to what's causing it as nothing is showing up as a fault.

 

 

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A good point and one I've thought of, however I've checked the fuel lines methodically yesterday and can't find any faults with them.

 

I've also replaced the VCV and the pressure release valve as a process of elimination as well as de tuned and returned the ECU to stock settings.  This has helped somewhat with the running but I think this is more to do with the fact the engine isn't requiring higher fuel rates in stock mode.

 

I have noticed the engine is ' noisier ' than before, and I'm wondering if the timing is slightly out and could this cause a failure of fuel at high pressure?

 

When the injectors are required to present high rates of fuel and if the timing isn't perfect, could they be failing to combust the fuel....but on the other hand, there is no sign of white smoke caused by unburnt diesel when this is happening ( that I have noticed ) and why would this symptom only happen when the engine is above 90C

 

The next point is to remove the fuel lines and blow them through to make sure there is no contamination when the engine was out, after this I'm running out of ideas other than replace the HP fuel pump

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On 4/26/2021 at 1:52 PM, landroversforever said:

Not too familiar with diesel tuning.... is there anything like the warm up enrichment of a petrol? Could that be why it's ok until the higher temp? 

 

The fuel is dragged through from the tank via the filter with no pre warming, however It is cooled on the return line via a fuel cooler which determines whether the fuel on the return goes back to the tank or re circulated via the filter.

 

I've ordered some push on clips and 5 metres of clear fuel hose.  I shall make up a line from the last joint before the pump, feed it into the cab and back to the pump so I can see if any air is being introduced to the pump when the fuel pressure is high and the engine is at temperature.

 

If everything is good from that point of view then the issue would be from the pump onwards.  

 

Crank, cam, Cylinder head temperature sensors have been replaced as part of the maintenance/elimination.  

 

We have a very good local garage who will find a fault or not charge you, but they're booked until the 10th May, so I have until then to find the problem or give it to them.

 

I bought a little GS500E 1990 bike on Sunday to get to work on, it's nice to be back in the saddle, and a classic at that ;)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I’ve turned my hand to a little fabrication work. I’m still in virgin territory or at least 2nd base when it comes to waving a electric sticky stick ( or wire and gas in this case ) around so bear with me with the results 😁

 

It came about when I got rid of the top box to replace it with a roof tent so I was running out of storage inside and figured some bits can be fitted to the outside when travelling.

 

The first item is the Bushpig. It’s a metal box used for cooking or containing a fire, quite useful and becoming more and more popular with Nikki for cooking in rather than the petrol stove. 

 

The rear quarter seemed like a good place to put it and thus began my fabrication marvel.

 

i needed to make a swivel bracket and no idea how but I found myself in possession of a left over part from the rear wheel carrier so used that.

i made a receiver bracket using 30mm 3mm bar by scoring the folds, folding then welding and drilling to make the hinge bit

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after this I made a bar to go over the entire box and be able to place a padlock to lock it up.  Again I scored the joints, bent to the angle and welded them up.4E07D2B9-1A8F-4600-8A23-F4CCFED534BA.thumb.jpeg.2f78bdf70187bf7daabd62de83600c77.jpegD0F834E4-A912-46AC-A25F-A35EDF57F074.thumb.jpeg.990a2fe9d23d3d85ddbe9a3f378bbe26.jpeg

 

the welds are a tad rough but I got there in the end and I’m happy with the result.

 

The bushpig itself uses the tabs to sit in these little hooks I made and riveted to the body work to keep it in place

 

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I also did some brackets for the  270 awning, but that’s for another post

 

 

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17 minutes ago, Badger110 said:

Stephen if I become even half the fabricator you are I'd be more than happy with myself!  You do influence me to try stuff :D

We've all had to start somewhere, with patience and a bit of You tube you will be surprised at what you will be able to accomplish. I will enjoy watching you progress regards Stephen

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing to do with the truck per sae but I was thinking of the brand we were trying to incorporate when travelling to finance some of it if possible.

This was based on the brand name of overLandR.com

Id like a proper animation done with the correct vehicle and a different approach, however this online animation widget seemed like a good start, so what do you think?

 

https://app.animaker.com/video/BLO4ZN7BEH30J9RT

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