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Defender 110, a Bedford cf and a utility truck walk into a bar...


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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

I’ve just done that to take some tyres off. Jacked it from the front so it has the engine weight, used the hi-lift for the small footprint so the load wouldn’t spread.

It wasn’t too bad - but getting the tyres off with my short levers afterwards was really really hard work …

 

I bought a cheapish hand tyre changer. Once you get the hang of it getting them off and on is a doddle. It still makes you sweat though.

The only trouble is the bead breaker is not very good.

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I changed tyres many times; the hi-lift jack to break the bead as shown in the video, 1 tyre lever and a long crowbar are my tools.

Don't leave your drive without a hijack, it is one of those things you don't regret taking if you are going somewhere remote. 

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45 minutes ago, Daan said:

I changed tyres many times; the hi-lift jack to break the bead as shown in the video, 1 tyre lever and a long crowbar are my tools.

Don't leave your drive without a hijack, it is one of those things you don't regret taking if you are going somewhere remote. 

Unfortunately a S1 V8 is not heavy enough to guarantee that.

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21 hours ago, smallfry said:

As an aside, tyres should always go on, and come off the front (outside) of a one piece roadwheel. The well in the rim is shaped the way it is for this purpose.

The rear bead is nearly always harder to break, and I believe the inner rim might be slightly bigger. Not sure though, and its definitely harder to get a tyre off the back

 

I believe I should always do things the most convoluted arse about face way, so that when I do it correctly, I feel I've earned a badge before hand :D

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A few notable things have happened over the past few days, one being sat in the hospital having metal bits removed from ones eyeball due to some rogue bits getting in there even though I wear glasses when grinding and a mask when welding.   It's bloody sore and still impossible to see correctly out of the one eye for some time I've been told ( 3-5 days from yesterday ) but the good news is they did get the ' rust ring ' out too which rarely happens when a piece has been absorbed by the cornea for 4-5 days. 

 

The other notable thing is the damn injectors are leaking AGAIN!  I've spent a lot off money and time on this bloody engine and I'm beginning to get a tad fed up with it...it's not a particular difficult engine but it does seem to have it's plethora of gremlins.  The rocker housing is producing large amounts of pressure and causing the release valve to spew oil out, the outlet pipe is swimming in oil and I'm getting oil spots from the exhaust.   I can only assume it's the injector seals which will cause pressure in this area so I've ordered a set of original seals at £10.50 each and a set of stretch bolts which I'll do tomorrow.

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1 hour ago, Badger110 said:

A few notable things have happened over the past few days, one being sat in the hospital having metal bits removed from ones eyeball due to some rogue bits getting in there even though I wear glasses when grinding and a mask when welding.   

 

Been there done that several times, eyeball scraping is fun, not. Wait until you get your first arc flash ( arc eye ) now that is hilarious lol regards Stephen

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3 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

 Wait until you get your first arc flash ( arc eye ) now that is hilarious lol regards Stephen

Interestingly I was told by a welder I've worked with that because I wear reactalight glasses I'm less likely to get arc eye. Something to do with how they work I believe. I'm not planning to try it though.

Mike

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11 minutes ago, miketomcat said:

Interestingly I was told by a welder I've worked with that because I wear reactalight glasses I'm less likely to get arc eye. Something to do with how they work I believe. I'm not planning to try it though.

Mike

Hmmm it depends it gets you worse from the side, any glasses  will stop it but only wrap around will give protection from the side.

I can remember years ago a safety bulletin coming out at work, two welders in America got welding flashes when they were wearing contact lenses and both ended up blind due to contacts fuseing onto eyeballs, when they removed contacts part of their eye lens came with them, I'm talking 30years ago now regards Stephen

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Lo and behold injector number 4 looks like it wasn't doing a shocking lot...

IMG_0215.thumb.jpeg.6beca3a7f979ddf9fa63b6de4747e584.jpeg

 

Compared to the other 3...

 

IMG_0216.thumb.jpeg.6ad37fdc75330bc07049e0cf5e47ff51.jpeg

 

After a closer look it looks like the washer had given way at some point, the top one is injector 3 and the bottom is injector 4.  You can just see where there is a crease or shallow point in the washer itself.   The injector holes were cleaned and as far as I'm aware re seated when the head was sent away...regardless it's going to need doing again so I've ordered the tools to do it, hopefully they'll be here tomorrow

IMG_0217.thumb.jpeg.92cb9f68cb7a68431c9392983401bbda.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spending some time creating a website and instagram channel, I came across a few pics.

 

I made this little before and after pic, top one was the day I collected the truck and the bottom was taken 3 days ago...

 

A bit of a difference wouldn't you say?

 1916779014_BeforeandAfter.thumb.jpg.a9d9d8fa91330f359da0dd7ca3275409.jpg

:D

 

 

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1 minute ago, bishbosh said:

Give me a clue here - what exactly have you you changed? Struggling to make it out...... 😛 


There's a bumper end missing from the drivers side on the bottom picture!

 

btw if anyone in the UK finds it, let me know as I'd like it back :D  

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been doing some miles over the past month or so and one thing which has become apparent is the black smoke on hard acceleration and losing oil.  Combined with this is the burning oil smell when it's warming up.

Since the vacuum pump self destructed, I believe part of the internals of it ( being plastic and melted ) had entered the block and has caused some chaos which I was hoping wasn't the case.

I re did the injector seals recently and have since checked them again with no issues and 600 miles since doing them, but I'm still getting pressure in the camshaft area.

Even with these issues the truck still pulls like a train and cruises along happily at speed.

On a good note we threw the truck around in Wales and it didn't skip a beat and the tyres certainly did well.

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I stripped the top down to the cam carriers today to have a poke around and nothing but carbon residue in the oil which was to be expected.


Still undecided whether I should strip it all down, but a new noise has now kind of answered that.

 

On the way back from Wales, almost 20 miles from home we heard a noise coming from the drivetrain.

 

Taking the centre tray out so I could poke my head above the gearbox/transfer box I got Nikki to drive about to see if I could work out where it's coming from.

 

It doesn't feel like it's coming from the props, but it's difficult to pin point it.  

 

The noise progress's from;

 

Gear in Neutral, coasting down a hill - no noise

Gear in any gear, clutch in coasting down a hill - noise evident

Gear in any gear, clutch out and drive engaged - noisy

It also quietens down when you hit 60mph +  in 6th

 

My first thought is it's clutch related, mainly because that's the easiest to look at, however it's a new clutch and a decent one at that ( clutch fix )

 

I did the oils in both transfer and gearbox last week, transfer box was like tea but the gearbox was pretty perfect.  No residue or metal bits on the transfer plug, but it was ' sludgy '.

 

Any thoughts welcome, but I may just rip the whole lot out again to have a look ( and I'm getting good at it :D

 

 

 

 

 

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Clutch/gearbox aside I bit the bullet and took out the engine to get some answers to the pressure problem in the top end causing the rust proofing to continue more than ever before.

symptoms are;

smoking when accelerating in any gear ( black smoke )

pressurised rocket cover causing large amounts ( 1 litre every 100 miles or so ) to be lost via the rocket cover breather pipe & breather valve.

 

I stripped down to the head and this was the result from removing the head gasket.

 

D81E6E7D-276B-4096-8EC8-4A4A1F5B0D14.thumb.jpeg.52c2e344a2c758285062ad67975edd6d.jpegFA92B357-63E0-4AB8-996E-BE01D6A6052B.thumb.jpeg.4dd46f56f4a9bec778e40a65e3c24bd5.jpeg

 

Between cylinder 2&3 there has been something going on here. 

The head was removed and skimmed less than 6 months ago, the block was wet n dry sanded by me to remove any discolouration and looked clean like you see at the front end of the block. 

The rust/water discolouration on the block is the same on the head gasket...but if there was pressure getting by why wasn’t the coolant pressuring but the oil was and also possible contamination of the coolant.

 

All cylinders are clean with no signs of problems ( see below ), the original crosshatch is still evident on them so I’m not thinking the rings have failed anywhere, however I may replace them as well as bottom bearing shells as I’m this far.

One small concern is in cylinder 4, there is a line around 2/3’s of the cylinder. It has no feel to it and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t there before, you can just make it out here in these pictures66BBEA7A-3817-45DF-A49B-4F9135A0ACFB.thumb.jpeg.0f3360f1e51ba34f8b9b3c769365eeee.jpeg

image.thumb.jpg.6e0061b9537e344290d8cceef8610bd7.jpg

 

 

 

 

My other theory is there is a blockage in the oilways which isn’t allowing the oil to return to the sump quickly enough causing pressure to build up but the oil is pressurised to reach the top of the engine and gravity fed back I believe 

 

Thoughts welcome 👍😁

 

 

 

 

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Hmm, if you used sandpaper to remove discolouration on the block face, you've essentially made the surface not flat.  Odds are the block will need a light skim.  Then there's all the other obvious stuff - is the head gasket good quality; are you torquing the bolts in stages and in the correct sequence; is everything scrupulously clean?

The spigot bearing is strange.  It looks like it could have been damaged on assembly, which shouldn't be possible if it's the correct part.  Did it fit the shaft properly before assembly?  

 

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12 hours ago, landroversforever said:

I’d be a bit wary about the wet and dry on the block too. Unless you’ve got it as a single piece on something like a bit of granite. 

When I had the head skimmed I had a chat with the engineer about the block face and his advice was to use hardwood wider than the block, 1200 grit and take your time, which I did.

13 hours ago, deep said:

Hmm, if you used sandpaper to remove discolouration on the block face, you've essentially made the surface not flat.  Odds are the block will need a light skim.  Then there's all the other obvious stuff - is the head gasket good quality; are you torquing the bolts in stages and in the correct sequence; is everything scrupulously clean?

The spigot bearing is strange.  It looks like it could have been damaged on assembly, which shouldn't be possible if it's the correct part.  Did it fit the shaft properly before assembly?  

 

 

HG was Elring and yes, bolts in correct order, in fact this rebuild was the most ' by the book ' I've ever done using the LR manual.  

 

The spigot is a strange one as it looks to be elongated top to bottom and the input shaft to the gearbox has some movement, not a lot but some.  I also fitted the gearbox and engine together out of the truck so was as careful as I could've been, but that doesn't rule out a mistake happening ;)

Gearbox's are beyond my scope if I'm honest and I'll probably drop it out and get it over to a specialist in the coming weeks for some advice on the input shaft movement.

 

 

 

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I've always cleaned up blocks with wet and dry on a piece of perspex. I've been known to do heads too, both Ali and steel but I always check with a straight edge after. Never had issues that haven't been attributed to something else.

Mike

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13 hours ago, landroversforever said:

The input shaft will I think always move about without being located in the spigot bush.

How did you do the block face? If you’re just going back/forwards end to end you’ll take more off the middle. Which would fit with the 2/3 area being suspect. 

Small circular motions across the entire block but I don't think the cleaning of the face contributed to the problem if I'm honest...if I was using a heavier grade sandpaper and a powered sander then yes it's going to be a ****show, but this is cleaning residue with light movements.  Before it was put back together I shone a torch behind a straight edge to check for any variation in the finished surface and obviously I found none.

 

There were 2 instances the block overheated, once when a pipe split on the dual carriageway and another when the vacuum pump failed.   Reading around and chatting with the others, this is more likely to have caused a problem, but I'm always open to your thoughts :D

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