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Defender 110, a Bedford cf and a utility truck walk into a bar...

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The bull bar has a spare wheel attached to it, it’s solid enough in its design and is bolted through the bumper by 8 bolts ( 4 through the front of the chassis, 4 into the bumper ) 

The bumper is a generic, not HD and I’ve welded some 3mm plate across the bottom where the bolts go through as well as horizontally inside the bumper to beef it up abit.

My thinking is, the bars along the wing down to the rock slider will absorb some movement should I bump anything head on as well as provide a wee bit of protection to the wings.


lastly, the bars are great for getting up onto the bonnet to access the box up top

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It is a snatch bullbar  👍


As for cooling, i'm not convinced there will be a problem.

I've removed a full sized A/C condenser which was slap bang in front the intercooler and radiator. 

Also i've removed the surround which housed the front grill which took up a large part of the actual area availble for the radiator ( if you take the distance between the front wings, bumper and bonnet ).

I'm not saying it's better, but there hasn't been any difference in temperature that i've registered. 

Snatch landrover bullbars have been used all over the world in all environments and as yet, i've not come across issues with them overheating. Even in NI we used them on 300Tdi's


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I stripped the bongo seat for the frame work as there’s some decent sized tube which makes it up.

At the base was a curved piece which would make a good step for the bars



cut it out and welded it onto the bar





the curved seat base had lots welded to it which needed removing, then tidying up. Welding 2 separate thickness bits together was a learning curve but it’s turned out all right. 

The horizontal part is a perfect step up onto the bonnet now

I’m thinking of welding some loops to the underside of the bar in case I get a moose and need to strap it across the bonnet:rofl:

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17 hours ago, Badger110 said:

The horizontal part is a perfect step up onto the bonnet now

Looks like it's at the exact same height as the top of the tyre? So why not just step on that?

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  • 1 month later...

A few more bits done to the build, the main one being the heating and shower set up.


I have 2 webasto thermo top c's kicking about which i was planning to fit one to the engine as a pre heater and 1 for heating/hot water set up.


There are many ways to heat water in a vehicle or a boat or even your off grid spoon wittling shack in the woods and i've studied them all.


I took Webasto's idea as it was the more simplier way and reduced a need to fit bulky items and tweeked it abit for my own needs;


Firstly i made a small box in the rear quarter section of the Landy which was previously used to house the Propane bottle.


In here i fitted the Webasto, a 12v pump and the heat exchanger. 





To the right of the opening, i fitted a bullfinch shower outlet




The expansion tank is inside the Landy bolted to the rear panel, it's fairly slim so it's not in the way, this was the one i used;



I have also fitted this Fan heat exchanger  (FHE) to provide heat;



The entire system is in fact 2 seperate water feeds ( as in the diagram )

The webasto side is pretty much a closed loop with water/anti freeze looping from the Webasto>PHE (plate heat exchanger )> FHE > Expansion tank > then back to the Webasto and so provides a loop.

The shower/pump side is purely based on water drawn via the pump.  The water is heated by passing through the PHE when the webasto is running.


The system is designed to be used as;


  • Heating for the truck ( via the FHE )
  • Hot shower using the mixer head
  • Cold water feed for collecting water

If we're using the shower outside, we don't have to have the heating on in the truck by not turning the fan on. Hot water circulates around the system but isn't introduced to the living area unless we want it. 

When the heating is on, we isolate the cold water pump to stop any heat travelling from the PHE. 


Webasto's have a temperature cut off about 40c and with the shower running, it'll hit this after 15 minutes ( on a hot day ) and cycle down for 10 minutes. 

If we have the heating on , i get 20 minutes of heat and cycle down for 10, again this has been tested on a hot day.  I can lengthen the running times by extending the return pipe from FHE to maybe go outside or even i've considered running it along the floor of the cab to cool it down and provide underfloor heating, but i'm confident at the moment it will good to keep the truck warm through cycling every 30minutes or so.




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Indeed it is!


Fitted the solar panel to the roof and wired that up to a MPPT to the AGM battery.


When fitted, the solar panel charges the AGM and the main battery, however i have a VSR fitted between the 2, excuse my ignorance, but does the VSR allow flow both ways?   I understand the VSR opens when voltage hits a certain point ( 13.6v? ) to allow charge to the AGM battery from the alternator, but should it also open if the AGM battery is receiving charge and hits 13.6v also?

When i crank the engine, both batteries drop voltage to 12.6v which shouldn't happen with a VSR fitted.



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  • 3 months later...

I tried to work all this out with my own wiring and relays then finally realized that a special product solution was required.  Look into Redarc as the solar takes priority before the alternator draw takes place with their DC to DC controllers.  They are not cheap, but work flawlessly, and once installed are reliable.  It allowed me to move on to other things knowing the maintenance and charging of the main car battery and auxiliary battery bank were covered, even if you have a large inverter and want to eliminate gas and cook with electricity only.   There units also protect your alternator by limiting the max charge amperage draw to 20, 40 or 50 AMPS max.

On another note, I am looking for a set of folding seats for a project.  If dormatic seats came in your Bedford and you would consider selling them, please keep me in mind.




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