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Usb gadgets series 3 ( don't shout at me )


neilc

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Ok , I am very careful to keep my series 3 as original as possible , electric points are the only real adjustment I've made , however I am now being realistic and making minor additions, however making sure they can be changed back or removed when needed without permanent damage , can I run 2 usb sockets directly from the ignition without adding a relay? It will of course use an existing fuse,  , I have included photos of Landy to prove I am not pimping it !

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Edited by neilc
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Yeah , that's correct , I was thinking about getting one of those 5 inch square solar panels initially to stick into the back window to charge mobile phones ,however I realised that would just charge rather than create a constant supply of power .

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Yep, 2a fuse is probably enough and certainly no need for a relay.  You could run it from the ignition switch, since it draws so little power, to prevent accidentally running the battery flat over a period of days charging laptops or other devices without turning the engine if you choose.

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That’s what I meant - not clearly written, but the point was that the posts would not be powered unless the keys are in the ignition switch.  It could be done from the I or II position, but there isn’t much point in having the instruments and ignition coil powered to run the USB, so I would be better.  

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Depending on your needs, a lot is possible. Esp. if you use the aux. panel like we did :

image.png.3b0d6efb7c3e0210adc97be4dd3b6600.png

On the right a few essential switches..

On the left, several USB, Cig. Lighter and DIN plugs..

Holes in the bulkhead are usu. there and you'd need 2 wires to make is work.

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Oh yeah, never though of using that , is it just trial and error using existing spades on back of fuses ?,  it seems to work with the white grouping nearer the bottom of the column , there is a spare spade connection , however I know quoting wire colours on series is always a bit hit and miss as they are usually a bodge of different wires.

 

I don't know if this is a normal reaction but sometimes the series gets on my nerves and sometimes I love it , the wiring is a particular pain in the arse ,currently the wipers only work on one speed and the washers aren't working , they were ok last week as it flew through MOT , but as you know when you take the instrument panel off its  like entering the twilight zone .

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Oh yes........

Manual Pre Glow - so instead of counting I can watch the clock.. 😄

The hr. counter is to see what hours the "new to me" 200 Tdi in the Series Hybrid does..

Could not find a 52 mm alti meter... 🤣

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33 minutes ago, neilc said:

Oh yeah, never though of using that , is it just trial and error using existing spades on back of fuses ?,  it seems to work with the white grouping nearer the bottom of the column , there is a spare spade connection , however I know quoting wire colours on series is always a bit hit and miss as they are usually a bodge of different wires.

Brown *should* be unfused permanent live, purple *should* be fused permanent live (albeit a dodgy 17A glass fuse...), white *should* be ignition-switched live...

Replacing the glass fuses with a small blade fusebox is a big improvement IMHO, especially as LR don't fuse the lights (glass fuses can't handle it) so a dodgy bulb or chafed loom can set itself alight... ask me how I know :glare:

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My series has been on fire on 3 occasions , once when someone put an angle grinder to it not allowing for the carpet and 2 other occasions when I overloaded wires and the coating literally burnt off the wire!

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Not really - there is a very good diagram - and the terminals are all labelled now so tracing is easy.

IF you read Dutch

When the 110 goes for a chassis wop, new electrics will be installed as the interior will be done.

2 alternators, 2 batteries and a few interesting mods (central door locking to name one) will keep me busy

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59 minutes ago, Arjan said:

Adding fuses to a Series makes a lot of sense !

...however, some people over do it... 😁

They were doing so well until they used 20A fuses for everything... makes me think it's not as safe as they think it is!

You don't need to add lots of fuses, just replace the glass ones with blade & add one or two to fuse the lighting circuit. A single midi-fuse for the power feed from battery into the dash is a good idea too, only needs to be ~40A ish.

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On 8/6/2019 at 1:58 PM, Arjan said:

Depending on your needs, a lot is possible. Esp. if you use the aux. panel like we did :

image.png.3b0d6efb7c3e0210adc97be4dd3b6600.png

On the right a few essential switches..

On the left, several USB, Cig. Lighter and DIN plugs..

Holes in the bulkhead are usu. there and you'd need 2 wires to make is work.

That is a neat way, and you can keep the charging wires for small devices in the parcel tray with the device to keep them away from the gear lever.  Otherwise, you can use the USB ports that fit smaller gauge holes (45 or 55mm I think, but can’t remember now) where the auxiliary gauges are in Arjan’s photo.  But if you fit more than just the USB ports, I’d recommend a separate feed and fuse box from the battery, ideally with independent fuses for the cigarette lighter or DIN ports as they can carry a fair bit of current.  I wouldn’t want such a large load powered through the aux circuits from the ignition switch, but you could use an ignition spur to control a relay powering the sockets to retain that accidental battery drain protection.

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Yes, a relay fed through the ignition would be a nice solution .

Ours are all behind cut off switch (don't do ignition) sauf the clock, obviously.

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