neilc Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 I've just driven 250 miles in the series 3 swb , the majority of the journey was great , however nearing home at low speeds the Landy was a bit juddery as if a tyre was flat , it was never in 4 wd only 2wd , I got home and lifted the front wheels one at a time and turned them , the front prop did turn , however the wheels were very stiff and didnt actually spin, they could turn but not freely , is there anything obvious here , I've recently replaced both bearing and there is no grinding or noise when rotating , also they have been good for a number of weeks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Brakes out of adjustment, or possibly hydraulics slowly failing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilc Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Would the brakes go out of adjustment ? I will have to remove both wheels and hubs , to be fair I was applying the brakes quite a bit on a lot of steep hills , it may just be that the shoes need replacing , I'm just going to have to get stuck in and see . I'll let you know , thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flailbasher Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 It is possible that even though you re did the bearings that they may have been tightened too much and has caused them to fail prematurely. This happened on my Defender once and they failed about a week after using it. Took the stub axles with them too. I would definitely take the outer flange off and have a look inside just to be sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilc Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 Ok bearings seem ok , ive taken the tunnel out and I think it's the front prop there is slight play on the spline , is there anyway to check performance without front prop on ? The ujs look like carp and as I say there is a bit of play in spline , haven't managed to get it off yet . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 Check the pushrod clearance on the brake master cylinder and also the return spring for the pedal is in place and working . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilc Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 3 hours ago, steve b said: Check the pushrod clearance on the brake master cylinder and also the return spring for the pedal is in place and working . cheers Steve b Brake pedal seems fine , how do I check the clearance on the master cylinder please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 Does it have a return spring ? It should be hooked from the pedal arm to a plate attached to the upper of the 6 bolts holding the pedal box to the bulkhead in the footwell . With the return spring holding the pedal up remove the cover plate on the top of the pedal box ( 6 screws ) and feel the pushrod for slack side to side at MC end . there should be small movement showing that the pushrod is not in contact with the piston end . Adjustment is via the two nuts on the pushrod - one either side of the trunnion pivot . The return spring must be in place and working . From the factory manual cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilc Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 I'll have a look thanks . Another thing I've just noticed is this , one of the track rod ends is split and I can literally turn the shock absorber towards me by about 20 degrees , where the other end of the shock absorber meets the chassis it is very loose , could this be the problem ? The second image is it as it stands and the third illustrates how far forward it can be pulled forward/pushed back . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 The damper should be able to be turned continuously, though will have friction from the bushes at one end and the internal seals on the piston at the other. The split rod end boot won’t be causing any wobble, but if the rod end itself is full of mud or rust, it may be both loose and stiff, which could cause issues on the steering. It can’t cause wheel binding or a wheel to wobble on its stub axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 I think @neilc means the drag link rotates on the ball joints (at least that is what the pictures show), in which case, this is a good thing, it needs to be able to, or it will bind up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 Ah, yes, and that is normal, as you said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilc Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 Before moving the props and checking other things I tried tightening up the wheel nuts , I had read of similar symptoms where wheel nuts were able to removed by hand , they were so loose! , mine weren't that bad however they were certainly not as tight as possible , I haven't got a torque set so I usually tighten them up as best as I can without issue , however ive done approx 500 miles in the last 2 weeks as they seem to have loosened slightly , I have only taken it around the block so far but ill try to take it on a run and see if it has helped , ill let you know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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