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justustwo

what sounds like a cracked exhaust but comes from elsewhere

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Hi all I have a 1993 standard land rover defender 200 tdi hard top which i have owned and maintained about 8 years

Lately i have welded up a hole /split in the exhaust downpipe  by the support on the side of the engine  as it  had split and was what i thought was the cause of a really quite loud and irritating metal squeak/rattle/squeal (?)

unfortunately i have put the exhaust all back together and that noise is still there just sounds like a loose downpipe or the like BUT its hard to pinpoint even where or what end of the car its coming from when your in car driving.

my other half said it sounded as if coming from back wheel when she listened as i pulled into garage but just stripped the back wheels off and nothing to report there brakes ok(drums) and wheel bearings sound quiet when turning the wheels by hand quickly.

what i noticed while driving it only happens as you take foot of the accelerator when IN gear but if i am going along road and foot on gas its not there and also when i am travelling along road and put into neutral and take foot of the gas it is also NOT there

 

Have done a check by pulling around the propshafts and they  seem tight with little play.

I do have a weep of oil from the handbrake drum but awaiting a new seeal and possible trandsfer case bearing as the only other thing was when i am travelling and put it in neutral i can feel what seems like an out of balance bearing  may be in the handbrake drum??

 any thoughs on what may be the cause 

 

 

Lastly before i put the car back of the 2 rear axle stands is it ok/safe to put the front up as well on 2 stands and run in gear ...i am sure this ok but just want to know as never done it

thanks and appreciate any helpful advice 

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It sounds like prop UJs to me.

I have had UJs make a tinkling noise, a little like stirring a cup of tea, even though they had no play and seemed ok on the vehicle - dropping the propshafts revealed mild to moderate binding in one axis, and once the UK was removed, it was all to easy to see the wear and broken rollers.  Don’t ever be told that you can check the serviceability of a prop shaft or it’s UJs while fitted - you have to take them off and move each UJ throughout its range in each axis, feeling for binding, roughness and play.

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Top marks to Snagger and big thank you had a good look at the rear prop and why i didnt see this first off is my bad lot.was told before from a prop rebuilding guy that you should always take off a prop to properly check it but was being lazy☹️ also if you find that cups on the uj are shiny where the clip ring is it points to a failure?

 

have taken rear prop off and locked diff whilst i source  a new UJ. I do seem to have more backlash with only the front prop on

 

On a 2nd point  noticed my front left shock  absorber bottom fixing is totally loose and although i tried to tighten need to soak the nut in wd40  first

what with a needing to replace the rear transfer box output seal and possibly bearing, a rear hub seal,and a service my relaxing day ahead is gone  thanks

 

 

 

 

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If you have a leaking hub seal do yourself a favour and check that the axle breather is clear, the banjo bolts tend to attract carp, then the axle pressurises slightly when warm

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As Cack says, a leaky hub is often axle case pressurisation, so give the axle, especially near the hub (to spot new leaks) a wash and check the breather is clear first.  If it is the seal, check the land that the seal runs on too, as if this is grooved, you need a new stub axle.

 

At least the noise is a simple and fairly cheap and easy fix!

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Great thanks for advice .prop all off and was shocked at the state of that uj. Going to have a few days working thru the items.just out of interest the sliding joint of the rear prop has a stamped arrow which Obviously should line up with a corresponding mark on the closest  uj end of the prop.I can't find any arrow but is it the raised dimple on the uj end.if so it was missaligned

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on my axle the other arrow was on the thin part (where the spline's are).

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I'd check that the phasing of the u/js is correct - documented in the manual. Also - try to build it back up so that the grease nipples are all more or less in line . It's obvious it's a good thing to do the first time you try to grease it in situ, saves having to rotate the shaft halfway through. Re the hub seals, you may want to consider the RTC3511 double lipped seal and cut the inner seals to let the oil through to the bearings.

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