Jump to content
Gazzar

TDI 200 loud knock on tickover

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

You could just avoid deep water !? 😊

You sound like my wife. 

Thoughts like that result in a Hyundai Rio sitting in the drive.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely cam pulley.

Now, the question is; why has it moved?

 

IMG_20190924_112701.jpg

IMG_20190924_112706.jpg

IMG_20190924_112710.jpg

IMG_20190924_115511.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's actually about 1mm out of alignment, I think.

Hopefully it's a loose bolt.

I've just taken the IP off, so will look at that age I've posted the pump off for a performance tune.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can only be a loose pulley, really... or perhaps snapped cam, but let's not go there yet :ph34r:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Bowie.

It was running really well, when I decided to investigate (excluding the knock) so I hope, very much, that you are wrong on the broken cam front.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stranger things have happened.... saw a cam which was snapped one cylinder in, allowing it to still drive the rest of the camshaft running the engine perfectly, albeit with a few cylinders that had slightly retarded cam timing.

Made a horrid noise though :)

 

Anyway, I am quite sure it is just a loose pulley ;) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Errrrrr. 

 

No.

 

This is unusual.

 

The bolt was finger tight, or even loose.

 

But there was worse to come.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Much worse.

IMG_20190924_180606.jpg

IMG_20190924_180558.jpg

IMG_20190924_180540.jpg

  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it new cam time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That would create a knock, what's the cam like, I replaced my cam with a new one during my rebuild, still have the old one here if you would like it. nothing major wrong just wanted to fit a new one in new bearings, its actually the same cam as in the 2.5n/a & TD engines.

you can get a  gear from Turner Engineering https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-666-pulley-camshaft-c2x20634827

it's not madly expensive either imho.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Western, for the offer. 

I'm reluctant to take the head off, to be honest, I fear that I might start rebuilding the engine! You do have to take the head of to do the cam shaft, right?

I'll inspect the keyway in a minute, and if its okay, then I'll leave it be.

Even if I Loctite it into the keyway, I should be all right.

Big turner order coming up.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there a disco 1 parts manual anywhere on the internet? I've the defender one, can't find the disco version.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nasty, would have broken because the bolt was loose.

If the cam is OK (probably if you ask me, the cam is much harder than the pulley) then it could be a very lucky find....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Thanks Western, for the offer. 

I'm reluctant to take the head off, to be honest, I fear that I might start rebuilding the engine! You do have to take the head of to do the cam shaft, right?

I'll inspect the keyway in a minute, and if its okay, then I'll leave it be.

Even if I Loctite it into the keyway, I should be all right.

Big turner order coming up.

Yes to lifting the head to change cam & remove/refit the followers. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Western.  I appreciate it.

The keyway looks, not perfect, but okay.

I'l loctite in the key when I do the job, some 660 should do the trick.

Right, a BIG order heading Turners way.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apart from the keyway and the shaft diameter ( measure) I would look at the rear register face for the pulley on the cam and maybe check for run-out if you use the cam when you put the pulley on and torque it up , it looks like you have escaped a big strip down , so all good and change the oil seal !

cheers

Steve b

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good point, I need to order a dti and base. I've ordered a new thrust plate, hopefully that will set everything back to true.

And seals and gaskets and all sorts. Not cheap gaskets but also wasn't paying jlr prices for gaskets, my God, they know how to charge!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is why I was asking about loctiting these gears on to the cam and crank shaft in the defender forum recently. I am going to continue putting a little loctite on there - it prevents any movement i think. It shouldnt happen if the bolt is tight but I have seen threads like these occasionally and think loctite may help things stay put.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I suppose it's the fear of difficult disassembly, in a cramped space, that puts people off the idea.

I'll be certainly doing it in future, mild Loctite, not the high strength stuff.

And clean all blind holes with oodles of brake cleaner.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gaz, I have a good cam gear here which came out of mine when I changed the front end to Defender spec.

Yours for the price of postage. Any good to you ?

Mo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mo, I'm good. New is only £50, so went with that.

I do have a spare engine, that, one day, I'll rebuild properly. Nowadays, I don't even have time to strip it down!

One day. I'll do everything!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

👍 no problem mate, thought I'd offer as I know how the solution to these problems can add up !

Mo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you need a decent cover the for the chest?  I have a spare you are welcome to, along with a 200tdi air box

You could rebuild the damage by using a copper woodruff key and building up around it with weld...

The cam/oil way issue is where, when the engine is thrashed within an inch of it's life, after spending 100k pootling about (imagine LR 90 with 1.667 T box and 205/26's doing 80 on the M5) it can move forward in the cam chamber(?)/ This then exposing an oil gallery at the rear of the engine (handily accessed by the core plug at the back) and the oild pressure drops through the floor

 

Only fix is strip to block and drop down to the local engine guru to have new white metal bearings installed and line bored

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy