Anti burst locks query.

[neilc]

Am I right in thinking that when I purchase series 3 locks anti burst or otherwise that they don't come with the stiker latches? seems like a bit of a weird set up. £30 odd pound seems about right but when im adding on another £15 for a striker plate and £5 for postage it soon adds up.

[lo-fi]

Two things about the original locks:

You can adjust the strikers with shims or washers. Getting them nice and close makes a huge difference. 

Most importantly, grease the inside edge of the strikers where the latch holds against! A tiny smear is all you need. It seems counter intuitive, but here's what happens... As the door moves against the striker, there's enough friction to push the latch in against the spring. Slowly but surely, it moves until it no longer holds the door. The grease stops that friction and let's the spring do it's job. 

Popping open going one way or the other suggests the striker needs adjustment, so pack it out with washers and see how you get on. Mine used to pop open all the time until I sorted those bits.

[neilc]

Ill have a look , anything to save a bit of cash ,

Thanks,

 

[lo-fi]

The "anti burst" locks need some cutting to fit too. I looked at it, then realised (like many things on a series) the originals are quite up to it if properly set up and looked after. Not had a problem with doors popping open since 

 

[neilc]

I really need the back door to lock from the inside as the children would be safer , locking them in seems a bit dangerous , I will buy one of those push and twist attachments and try and fit and I need an external lock on the passenger side but I know that can be drilled our and  added. Thanks again 

[lo-fi]

You could make a hole and pop a pin through that would stop accidental opening of the rear door handle. Might be an elegant solution all round. If you had the pin on a wire, it's then a quick yank of the wire to release, rather than fumbling for keys you may not have.