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L19MUD

The time has finally come...new chassis time

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My trusty 200tdi 90 has finally succumbed to rust. It has been regularly painted with red oxide/chassis black and 7 years ago it had a new rear crossmember. Other areas started to go on the rear ¼ chassis 2 years ago and I have done two rounds of welding to get it ready for MOT. It now needs at least a ¼ rear chassis plus the two front outriggers and that seems like throwing good money after bad.

I have owned it for 15 years and have no intention of selling so it seemed like the right time to treat her to a galvanised chassis. I also know I need to repair the drivers footwell whilst I have the body off.

I am not going to try and tidy up any bodywork as I want this done relatively quickly as I ideally want it back on the road ASAP. I have already had to buy a fill in vehicle to get me by…however whilst I’m pulling things apart I guess it makes sense to do a few things (I have read a few chassis swap threads on here including Ralph’s very detailed one)

 

Thoughts are;

Replace all bushes (have red polybushes but think they have done 70k of towing now so must be due a change)

Replace brake pipes

Clean and paint axles (in pretty good nick so a fairly easy job)

Springs have surface rust in places so clean and paint only

Front shocks now 10 years old so replace (have ordered galv turrets from Richards with the new chassis)

Fuel tank only 2 years old so leave that

 

This takes me onto the other large metal items bolted to the chassis some of which are now looking scruffy. I have some ScrapIron racing tree sliders which came galvanised and powder coated from new and other than a scrape from someone in a car park they are like brand new over ten years on! So my first thoughts are to do the same with things like the winch bumper which was powder costed but is rusting and flaking.

So;

Winch bumper, light guards, A bar – currently all powder coated but flaking/rusting. Clean off and galvanise and then get powder coated?

Tank guard is galvanised but starting to surface rust so will get re galvanised after a clean up

Rock sliders already galvanised but powder coating damaged. Remove existing powder coat and re powder coat?

 

I am planning to spray the chassis black as that is easier to touch up than powder coating. Should I just get the bumper/light guards etc sprayed black at the same time or would powder coating be better?

 

Any thoughts welcome, will keep this thread as the re chassis story

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Hi There,

Not much advice can give other than perhaps thoughts with respect to bulkhead? Does that need addressing, galvanising, etc... Also, a nice new "under carriage" might benefit from new exhaust?

In any case, look forward to seeing progress. Not quite there myself, but know I'll likely be doing something similar in the future - probably when the kids have left home :-)

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You sound very much where we are with our Ninety.

Tried to sell it 3 times. 3 times it was sold. 3 times it didn't get closed by the buyer.

So, he stays.

Galvanized chassis is to be bought (Brexit is not helping) but I have a spare bulkhead that will be prepared and galvanized.

I suggest you consider to do the same as it is not a lot of money and the result is trouble free motoring corrosion wise.

The Series Hybrid was done that way 30 years ago and still a perfect.

Bon Courage !!!

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If you are taking it apart as separate sections I'd be giving some serious thought to galvanising the BH , fair bit of extra time to strip it and re-fit after but a lot less hassle than doing it in 3 or 4 years .

I personally don't like powder coat , T-wash , primer and top coat for me . If you decide not to galv. the BH at least hang it upside down , block all the holes in the top rail and blow about 2 litres of waxoyl or similar and allow to run to all corners , use a space heater if necessary to keep it warm . I've just done one   last week in 30c full sun and it worked a treat  .

cheers

Steve b 

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While you've got it in bits, consider replacing the clutch [full 3-part kit] and replacing the release-arm with one of the reinforced variety.

It's a job that's a lot easier to do when the engine/transmission's not in the vehicle.

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As you've seen my thread, I wanted just a straight chassis swap, which we did manage, only extra bit was one front brake pipe IIRC. the bushes were done after at a later date.

 

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Well my 90 has been stripped twice and both times i didnt see fit to put in a galvanized bulkhead, now I'm paying the price as its on its way again, I'm planning to strip it down once more hopfully before Christmas to try rectify the stuff i missed on the body - new rear floor, galvanized bulkhead and now looking at fully galvanised doors.

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Thanks all.

I forgot to mention that I have a footwell to sort on the drivers side too - its really not that bad but may as well repair whilst I can easily get to it. The rest of the bulkhead is perfect except for a tiny couple of rust bubbles where the bonnet buffer rubbers are (at least thats what I can see with the wings on)

 

As the bulkhead really does not need touching right now other than the footwell and I don't want to start spraying bodywork/taking the dash out etc etc I won't do the bulkhead this time. It will really push back getting it back on the road. I have a 4 post ramp so after taking the font wings off I intend to keep the whole of the rest of the bodywork complete. I will lift it up in the air, then support the bodywork on some steel across 4 oil drums and then lower the running gear out the bottom. Swap all the running gear over to the new chassis then roll it back under and refit

 

This year it has had a new clutch and a stainless griffin exhaust so I know they don't need messing with.

My doors are really not great and I do have to sort out rusty tub cappings but they can be done totally seperately from the chassis swap otherwise this will turn into a full restoration which I don't have time to do right now. I just need it back on the road really

 

 

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15 hours ago, steve b said:

If you are taking it apart as separate sections I'd be giving some serious thought to galvanising the BH , fair bit of extra time to strip it and re-fit after but a lot less hassle than doing it in 3 or 4 years .

I personally don't like powder coat , T-wash , primer and top coat for me . If you decide not to galv. the BH at least hang it upside down , block all the holes in the top rail and blow about 2 litres of waxoyl or similar and allow to run to all corners , use a space heater if necessary to keep it warm . I've just done one   last week in 30c full sun and it worked a treat  .

cheers

Steve b 

Steve - any advice to help preserve the bulkhead without taking it off? Are there any holes at the top I can access to squirt warm waxoil in? Possibly those bonnet buffer rubbers that have some surface rust bubbling?

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For the big bolt on bits I’d go with the galv and powdercoat. Done properly it’s great. 

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How are you planning to do the swap? Do you have access to a lift or are you going to remove the body panel by panel? Mine needs done as well as i'm in the middle of welding, what feels like, patch number 10,239,292. I've seen various methods using scaffolding poles and chain hoists to lift the body clear but i was wondering if you removed the radiator and front panels if you could roll the chassis out by only lifting the body up by a few inches on scaff poles and farm jacks?

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1 hour ago, paime said:

How are you planning to do the swap? Do you have access to a lift or are you going to remove the body panel by panel? Mine needs done as well as i'm in the middle of welding, what feels like, patch number 10,239,292. I've seen various methods using scaffolding poles and chain hoists to lift the body clear but i was wondering if you removed the radiator and front panels if you could roll the chassis out by only lifting the body up by a few inches on scaff poles and farm jacks?

You can do it with farm jacks etc but it's a lot higher than a couple of inches needed to roll it out try nearer to two foot.

Mike

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2 hours ago, L19MUD said:

Steve - any advice to help preserve the bulkhead without taking it off? Are there any holes at the top I can access to squirt warm waxoil in? Possibly those bonnet buffer rubbers that have some surface rust bubbling?

Yes , the main two holes are the LH drive wiper wheel box holes and the upper door hinge holes , of course you could drill a couple more to suit but it should be possible using those , just be careful not to blow the blanking grommet out from the inside of the top rail or the waxoyl will find it's way into the cab side . The posts can be done through the door hinge holes too  , just remove one at time if you are keeping the doors on . A blast up the inside upper outer  corner above the footwell  each side too is worth it .

Steve

 

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1 hour ago, paime said:

How are you planning to do the swap? Do you have access to a lift or are you going to remove the body panel by panel? Mine needs done as well as i'm in the middle of welding, what feels like, patch number 10,239,292. I've seen various methods using scaffolding poles and chain hoists to lift the body clear but i was wondering if you removed the radiator and front panels if you could roll the chassis out by only lifting the body up by a few inches on scaff poles and farm jacks?

 I have a 4 post ramp so after taking the font wings off I intend to keep the whole of the rest of the bodywork complete. I will lift it up in the air, then support the bodywork on some steel across 4 oil drums and then lower the running gear out the bottom. Swap all the running gear over to the new chassis then roll it back under and refit

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A photo of the vehicle in question all set up for holiday earlier in the year

1080640832_LMudandtrailer.thumb.jpg.dce6ca8f5fa4e3ff13df6057015380dc.jpg

 

 

And this is how we went on holiday last week in the temporary fill in vehicle!

462007443_Transithol.thumb.jpg.b568d6b9e48325f6a5862d4acf89339e.jpg

 

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About five years ago I did my wife’s old 300tdi 90 in two days with my two post ramp. I didn’t even take the wings off. Box section steel inserted between tub and chassis in rear wheel arch. Front two arms picked up on bulkhead feet.

812B29FB-A80A-42D7-8881-94250A4693F6.jpeg

Edited by oneandtwo

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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:

For the big bolt on bits I’d go with the galv and powdercoat. Done properly it’s great. 

Based on how well the Tree sliders have held up I agree - only powder coat that has come off is where a Mondeo wrote off a bonnet, wing and headlight! Has never flaked around that damage either

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2 minutes ago, oneandtwo said:

About five years ago I did my wife’s old 300tdi 90 in two days with my two post ramp. I didn’t even take the wings off. Box section steel inserted between tub and chassis in rear wheel arch. Front two arms picked up on bulkhead feet.

The wings have to come off to do the bulkhead footwells anyway for me. A four poster is a bit more difficult as I will need drums or similar to support it on when I lower the chassis

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37 minutes ago, miketomcat said:

You can do it with farm jacks etc but it's a lot higher than a couple of inches needed to roll it out try nearer to two foot.

Mike

Thinking about this - with the wings off and rolling the chassis out from the front of the truck , I guess the highest point is the top of the rear wheels? It just needs to be high enough for the bulkhead feet to clear the wheels/tyres?

 

Could put some smaller wheels on to help with this as currently on 285/75's

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Yes that's still around a foot. But with the front still on it's about two foot to clear the engine.

Mike

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14 minutes ago, miketomcat said:

Yes that's still around a foot. But with the front still on it's about two foot to clear the engine.

Mike

Using 205l drums should just about give me the height I need to get that foot of space if I swap the wheels out for some with 205r80 tyres

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I've used builders scaffold trestles x4 to do the supporting  ,the ones I have are adjustable for height like axle stands and go up to about 2.5m iirc .

Give me a call if you want to borrow some .

I've also used bare steel rims to lower the o/a height of the rolling chassis too .

cheers

Steve b

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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:

Yes that's still around a foot. But with the front still on it's about two foot to clear the engine.

Mike

If you're pulling the chassis out from the front then what does the engine need to clear? Particularly if the wings are off, is there anything else going to be in the way?

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22 minutes ago, steve b said:

I've used builders scaffold trestles x4 to do the supporting  ,the ones I have are adjustable for height like axle stands and go up to about 2.5m iirc .

Give me a call if you want to borrow some .

I've also used bare steel rims to lower the o/a height of the rolling chassis too .

cheers

Steve b

Thanks Steve - i have builders trestles and bare steel wheels a plenty! Thats a good idea

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20 minutes ago, paime said:

If you're pulling the chassis out from the front then what does the engine need to clear? Particularly if the wings are off, is there anything else going to be in the way?

I think Mike meant that 2 foot is required if you leave the wings on, only 1 foot if you take them off as the engine does not need to clear anything then

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