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L19MUD

The time has finally come...new chassis time

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16 minutes ago, Snagger said:

If they have a special switch made for the job, it might be that simple, but if you’re using a simple two or three position switch like I did, then no.  But you’ll get there; it just takes a thick coat of looking at and a couple of teas to work it out.

I have a special switch made for the job! I could be lucky 

https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/carling-rear-wash-wipe-switch.html

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Be careful and choose the correct one. They offer two; US style push the top and EU push at the bottom. You linked to the US style. Here is the EU one. Sorry if you know this already.

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2 hours ago, Peaklander said:

Be careful and choose the correct one. They offer two; US style push the top and EU push at the bottom. You linked to the US style. Here is the EU one. Sorry if you know this already.

I choose the US style ones as I already had 7 that syle and wanted them to match. The EU ones are better though... Pressing them on just feels right the other way

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I rebuilt all of mine to be the EU way, as Mud only sold the US version back then.  I also installed coloured LEDs to replace the yellowish incandescent bulbs.  I had a bit of a job wiring up that console!  To change from US to European configuration, you just need to remove the rocker and turn that around and reposition the bulbs or LEDs so that they swap ends while keeping the same terminals.  Make sure you open the switch body with the rocker receiver facing straight up and the terminals pointing to the ground, and try to do it gently, so the innards don’t fall out - it’s best to see how they go together so that you can put them back together properly after working on the bulbs.  Make sure you don’t loose the small springs in the corners, which are the electrical connections between terminals and the bulb/led legs.

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On ‎5‎/‎30‎/‎2020 at 7:35 AM, Snagger said:

I rebuilt all of mine to be the EU way, as Mud only sold the US version back then.  I also installed coloured LEDs to replace the yellowish incandescent bulbs.  I had a bit of a job wiring up that console!  To change from US to European configuration, you just need to remove the rocker and turn that around and reposition the bulbs or LEDs so that they swap ends while keeping the same terminals.  Make sure you open the switch body with the rocker receiver facing straight up and the terminals pointing to the ground, and try to do it gently, so the innards don’t fall out - it’s best to see how they go together so that you can put them back together properly after working on the bulbs.  Make sure you don’t loose the small springs in the corners, which are the electrical connections between terminals and the bulb/led legs.

I am not quite as worried about the switch operating the other way! I managed for 10 years with the 7 I had before so will stick with them as they are. Wiring to the switches completed and documented, multiplugs next

 

436068117_reverseofswitches.thumb.jpg.35f68ef59c10a75bd6f887c2be7d7b3e.jpg

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I have nearly finished the huge job of wiring in all my additional circuits. I fitted multiconnectors to the dash side and switch side so that i can disconnect if needed fairly easily

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I also relaced the CB that took up a lot of room in the MUD dash with a Midland M5 CB which can be hidden away and all controlled via the handset. It is really smart. It can just be seen in the bottom left of the MUD dash. I intend to use the speaker output 3.5 to link to the input on my new head unit and play through the main speakers

A test of what I have got finished has revealed a couple of mistakes - the tell tale on the Carling swtiches relies on the input and output power to be the right way round. it is not on 3 of mine so need to fix that. I have also managed to put an ignition live to the relay for the front LED lightbar instead of the wire from Main beam. Nothing too serious to correct. The bottom switches still need fixing in properly in this picture

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And a picture of what the relay and fuseboard looks like fitted

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I then turned my attention to covering the rear bulkhead with rubber. I clamped it down with some dome head bolts and rivnuts using a stair tread plate and then contact adhesive. It is not perfectly flat as it covers a number of bolt heads although this picture makes it look much worse than it really is. The headlining and rear trims then went in for a final fitting along with some LED interior lights

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The end is creeping into sight now. I seem to be adding new jobs to the to do list at a slightly lower rate than I am now crossing them off

The new head unit finally arrived so I fittted that and finished off the interior wiring. I also received the Wright off road matting. it is HEAVY! It took me nearly a whole day to get it fitted properly but I am very pleased with the end resultsmatt.thumb.jpg.d50c3484dd9c5cde1738d97cfb57efda.jpgstereo1.thumb.jpg.cffe2236c00265199e534bd2455b0c68.jpg1688873272_stereo2.thumb.jpg.2e248dc620ae6e3748d2062368c65c8c.jpg2017964113_stereo4.thumb.jpg.b75654652f7989f71c7b68ca19cd6a89.jpg

 

The next task was to get the wings back on and see if she runs

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Started first flick of the key after 10 months! As a treat I decided to test fit the bumper

 

It was like Christmas getting it out of the box....

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Fitted via the top bolts only here so it sits a bit forward. I also fitted the new wheel arch spats (night mare to get right) and cut out for the flashy new side repeaters and fitted the tree slider back on now it is back from powder coating

 

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bumper1.jpg

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I do love an ARB bumper :wub: 

Any idea how much they actually weigh? other than just 'heavy' :lol: 

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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:

I do love an ARB bumper :wub: 

Any idea how much they actually weigh? other than just 'heavy' :lol: 

The fact I chose to lift it with the digger says it all! About 35kg I would say

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I'd love to have a mini digger in the workshopto lift stuff......

 

Looks good !

 

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On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2020 at 12:31 AM, landroversforever said:

35 doesn’t seem too bad? 

Will get it on the scales when I take it off to fit properly

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On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2020 at 11:44 AM, Geojake said:

This is looking unreal. Nice work!! 

I wish it was going to end up looking as shiny as yours! May regret not respraying at the same time but I never intended to do half of what I did. I also think there is no point resprayinguntil I bite the bullet and buy new doors at some point

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8 hours ago, L19MUD said:

Will get it on the scales when I take it off to fit properly

That would be most appreciated sir! I always keep an eye out for ARB bumpers. 

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On 7/14/2020 at 1:46 AM, landroversforever said:

That would be most appreciated sir! I always keep an eye out for ARB bumpers. 

I was wrong! 45kg 

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That doesn’t seem too horrendous either actually... less than half a me on the front. 

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Problem is the location, right where you wouldn't want weight.

That said, they do look cool ;) 

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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

Problem is the location, right where you wouldn't want weight.

That said, they do look cool ;) 

Also work great as ploughs, allow you to really bury your winch properly :lol:

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The ARB bumper caused me problems at the weekend! Before buying it I looked at one fitted to a Defender at the Last Land Rover show before the world all went crazy and the guards fitted to it did not clash with the bumper. I don't know if the design of the bumper changed but mine certainly don't fit.

 

NGuard.thumb.jpg.720933de15335ebf18064e5f001faac9.jpgone of this would have been much of an issue if I had not shotblast, galvanised and powder coated the light guards. Cue some swearing and I reluctantly got the grinder and welder out to fix the problem. Hammerite is going to have to do for the newly exposed/damaged areas

 

 

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Nothing much to report in the last week despite working on it every spare minute! Have done a service, tightened suspension bolts, fitted mud flaps and fitted the new headlights and other front light wiring.

Failed miserably at bleeding the brakes last night (chasing weeping joints) and in the position where the fronts seem decent but still an issue at the back. Today marked a landmark though as I sneaked out and bleed the clutch at lunch time. First drive in 10 months! :D

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13 minutes ago, L19MUD said:

Nothing much to report in the last week despite working on it every spare minute! Have done a service, tightened suspension bolts, fitted mud flaps and fitted the new headlights and other front light wiring.

Failed miserably at bleeding the brakes last night (chasing weeping joints) and in the position where the fronts seem decent but still an issue at the back. Today marked a landmark though as I sneaked out and bleed the clutch at lunch time. First drive in 10 months! :D

I've got visions of you test driving it in the yard with a chock on a stick to stop :lol: 

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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

I've got visions of you test driving it in the yard with a chock on a stick to stop :lol: 

Haha! The front brakes work (and so does the handbrake now the output seal has been fixed on the T box) so it is not too bad. Fairly exciting to be able to move it on and off the ramp without the push pull pole and a tractor/the Transit

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I know a bit of chequer plate is not to everyones taste but I needed to do something to cover up the splits/corrosion at the bottom of my doors due to electrolysis. I decided to cover with some chequer plate above the slider and below the hinge line. I stuck it on with double sided body trim tape.

Quite pleased with the results

side.thumb.jpg.38b1fdcd8ab68c2feba7886ba5239596.jpg243708986_side2.thumb.jpg.b335399ae8ca47dcce6c65df5709a5cb.jpg

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