miketomcat Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 Yep the last one I did I left the body complete so needed to clear the front panel. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 I lifted my 110 but didn't do any bulkhead work. That was left until later (which made it harder). If you are going to work on the footwells with the body lifted off the chassis then it might become a little flimsy. Perhaps by tying the wings together you can retain some rigidity but once you cut up the side of the door pillars and remove the bulkhead metal, it might be a problem. I guess it depends just how much footwell work is needed. If I had the space and were to consider another, similar project (chassis and bulkhead repairs), I would disassemble it I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 56 minutes ago, Peaklander said: I lifted my 110 but didn't do any bulkhead work. That was left until later (which made it harder). If you are going to work on the footwells with the body lifted off the chassis then it might become a little flimsy. Perhaps by tying the wings together you can retain some rigidity but once you cut up the side of the door pillars and remove the bulkhead metal, it might be a problem. I guess it depends just how much footwell work is needed. If I had the space and were to consider another, similar project (chassis and bulkhead repairs), I would disassemble it I think. I will repair the bulkhead whilst on the old chassis to try and avoid that issue, just take the wings off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 When we lifted my 110 body, the grille panel came out, gear levers removed & we only needed to lift it off the chassis so transfer lever cleared the bulkhead, body was left on wooden beams & 4 x 45 gallon drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 9 hours ago, western said: When we lifted my 110 body, the grille panel came out, gear levers removed & we only needed to lift it off the chassis so transfer lever cleared the bulkhead, body was left on wooden beams & 4 x 45 gallon drums. What did you use to lift the body? Farm jacks, chain hoists or bacon & coffee fuelled helpers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 2 hi lift Jack's, & a couple of helpers to slide the wooden beams & barrels in to place, we lifted the rear off chassis first then the front. There is a extract from my chassis change thread in the tech archive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 2 hours ago, western said: 2 hi lift Jack's, & a couple of helpers to slide the wooden beams & barrels in to place, we lifted the rear off chassis first then the front. There is a extract from my chassis change thread in the tech archive. Just spent a good hour trawling through your chassis thread, excellent work btw! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted September 6, 2019 Share Posted September 6, 2019 I lifted my 110 CSW body off using two farm jacks by myself, it was a rather nerve racking experience. I supported it on two steel beams and concrete blocks. Having removed the front end I only had to clear the levers and wheels. As others have suggested use smaller rear wheels or remove them and lower onto a trolley. I didn't think of it. You will find as you start to lift the body there are things you have forgotten to disconnect so take it slowly and check every inch or two. Putting it back on I almost lost it I should have had help, but managed to stop it toppling, another strain on the nerves. It would have been better if I had a flat area not a slight slope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Spent the morning pulling off the main bolt on bits. Went for the tighten and snap approach for most of the bolts Front bumper is scrap so will replace that. Only managed to get one of the tree slider supports out which slide into the outrigger, the other one is solid! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 What’s wrong with the bumper? Blasting and red oxide covered in powder coat should see it right, and more resilient than before, or galvanising. I’d have that off you do do just that if I was still in the UK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 On 9/8/2019 at 9:17 AM, Snagger said: What’s wrong with the bumper? Blasting and red oxide covered in powder coat should see it right, and more resilient than before, or galvanising. I’d have that off you do do just that if I was still in the UK! its a lot more than just surface rust, I chipped away at some of the bottom flakes and the bumper is only half the thickness that it was originally in places - not worth the effort in my opinion and would rather start with something better I need to get the plastic coating off the light guards, they have flaked in places as rust has got underneath. I need to get it off then galvanise, any suggestions how to do this? I tried with the gas torch and it does not burn but just turns to liquid and leaves a residue when scraping The tree sliders are already galavanised and don't have any rust at all. I just want to get the powder coating off these - would blasting do this? Tempted to chuck the light guards in the bonfire as they will be galvanised, not sure that will be a good idea with the sliders as it may melt the galv off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 I found the easiest way to get the plastic off was to heat it until it got a sheen but before it got melted and then scrape it - it came away in sheets that way, but once it melted, it was harder to remove. Paint stripper or another acid might work if left to soak. Shame the bumper is so bad - the photos make it look quite easily salvageable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 The way I have been getting rid of plastic on a roll cage, side bars etc. is a 40 grit flap disk on a grinder. Just make sure you wear a dust mask and eye protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 Not something I've tried, but what about a twisted knot wire wheel in a grinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 I have tried the wire wheel and wire cup and they are not as effective as the flap disks. You need to have some areas where the plastic has lifted or all they do is polish the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 Went to the Land rover show yesterday and bought a few bits - shocks, polybushes, flap wheels etc Big day today, collected my shiny new chassis 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 What a handy trannie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 On 9/11/2019 at 12:27 PM, soutie said: I have tried the wire wheel and wire cup and they are not as effective as the flap disks. You need to have some areas where the plastic has lifted or all they do is polish the plastic. +1 for flap discs but be careful with them. It's amazing how powerful they can be and it's easy to rip a bit more metal out that you had initially planned. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 Excellent, look forward to seeing the change progress 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 On 9/16/2019 at 3:47 PM, L19MUD said: Went to the Land rover show yesterday and bought a few bits - shocks, polybushes, flap wheels etc Big day today, collected my shiny new chassis Sounds like a satisfying day out! Can we have a new forum rule, though, that every time someone calls dampers “shocks”, they owe a beer to all those who use the term dampers? 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 5 minutes ago, Snagger said: Sounds like a satisfying day out! Can we have a new forum rule, though, that every time someone calls dampers “shocks”, they owe a beer to all those who use the term dampers? 😉 Oh no, I'm going show ignorance here.... I thought a shock absorber was a type of damper?! Are you a lager or a bitter drinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 I dink bitter, because I’m a grownup! 😜 The tyres and springs are the shock absorbers, Monkie - it’s an all too common misnomer that I’m gong to attribute to the west side of the Atlantic! 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 I stand corrected If it helps the shocks dampers in question are these rather nice Fox 2.0 ones for the front that will now match up with the back https://www.flatdoguk.com/fox-shock-absorber-ps%2C-ifp-0-1"-lift---front~1418 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 I have also posted a wanted add but in case anyone has missed it I am looking for a Genuine ARB front winch bumper for my 90 if anyone has one they would like to sell? I can find new ones for £895!! but they are a different design to before and I think they will stop me fitting my front light guards. The old design still had room for these to be fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 Make your own ? If you draw it I can CNC plasma cut it for sure . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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