mike1980 Posted September 26, 2019 Share Posted September 26, 2019 I'd recomend protecting the internals of the chassis, I replaced my chassis 10 years ago and used Dinotrol ML in the cavities, the only place it's rusted is on the rear x-member where I missed a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 27, 2019 Share Posted September 27, 2019 17 hours ago, paime said: I've heard mixed opinions in the past with some people saying that waxoyl actually traps moisture against the steel work and may enhance corrosion over the years. I think if you were to do it in a proper heated spray booth then that might help though? If i ever get round to doing my chassis i think i'll probably coat the inside as my current one seems to be rotting from the inside out. It probably depends on the specific wax used - they’re not all equal. I’d speak to Craig at Buzzweld. I think there will be some products that do well inside there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 14, 2019 Author Share Posted October 14, 2019 Not a lot has happened over the last couple of weeks as I have damaged a tendon in my leg. Managed to get the body clear of the workshop yesterday and the running gear out ready for cleaning. Engine, box and axles off today hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 14, 2019 Author Share Posted October 14, 2019 Good mornings progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Looks to be an interesting project. I'm a little ahead of you in my ground up rebuild, having recently started refitting chassis and axle components. One tip for you: before you start any painting on the chassis make a note/photo, of every threaded socket on the chassis. There are quite a lot, and some are metric and some are UNF/UNC. LR obviously dipped into various parts bins when assembling Defenders! Making a "before" record will help you with finding the correct tap to later clean the threads. For anybody doing an existing chassis galvanising job this is especially important. Don't ask me how I know😡, but I'm very glad I've got a good selection of quality taps, and dies. Regarding chassis internal corrosion, I have used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating Aerosol, https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html?utm_content=internal frame coating. I used a total of 5 tins, and this gave me 3 - 4 coats on all internal sections. Not too messy a job, and it dries/cures very quickly, so no risk of later drips, etc. How good it'll turn out to be, only time ...... If I'm still around when it fails, I'll come back and revive this post! Mike 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 2 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: Looks to be an interesting project. I'm a little ahead of you in my ground up rebuild, having recently started refitting chassis and axle components. One tip for you: before you start any painting on the chassis make a note/photo, of every threaded socket on the chassis. There are quite a lot, and some are metric and some are UNF/UNC. LR obviously dipped into various parts bins when assembling Defenders! Making a "before" record will help you with finding the correct tap to later clean the threads. For anybody doing an existing chassis galvanising job this is especially important. Don't ask me how I know😡, but I'm very glad I've got a good selection of quality taps, and dies. Regarding chassis internal corrosion, I have used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating Aerosol, https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html?utm_content=internal frame coating. I used a total of 5 tins, and this gave me 3 - 4 coats on all internal sections. Not too messy a job, and it dries/cures very quickly, so no risk of later drips, etc. How good it'll turn out to be, only time ...... If I'm still around when it fails, I'll come back and revive this post! Mike Unfortunately that good advice has come a little late...... That internal frame coating stuff looks excellent, if a little pricey. I will look into it, I wonder if I can find something similar in the UK with the same style of applicator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 I did get a little further on Tuesday with the axles and suspension arms but I had a Transit clutch to do which held things up. Credit to people who manage to change a chassis in a weekend as it took nearly a day of swearing to get all the arms and brackets off the chassis and axles and get the bushes out. I am now left with this. I think I will have a go a removing the rust using electrolysis, partly because it will be working whilst I'm not there and partly because it seems like a fun thing to try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Electrolysis will eat that rust for breakfast, as you say it works while you aren't there, so very efficient. I have managed to de-rust some stuff in an hour when I turn the amps up -so it can be fairly quick if you are doing non-critical parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 The other option if you've got somewhere near is to have it all blasted and galvanised. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Electrolysis will eat that rust for breakfast, as you say it works while you aren't there, so very efficient. I have managed to de-rust some stuff in an hour when I turn the amps up -so it can be fairly quick if you are doing non-critical parts. best to give it a quick clean off with the wire brush on the grinder first? 1 hour ago, landroversforever said: The other option if you've got somewhere near is to have it all blasted and galvanised. I was tempted to galv them but I have got loads of stuff to get galved which is not ready and it is going to slow down the whole project. These are all pretty sturdy items so I think a through de rust and a good few coats of paint should see them ok for a long while. They are also just bolt on items so it is not a big deal to replace down the line if I have to. I really need this truck back on the road and need to balance what would be the absolute best way of doing it vs. just getting it done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, L19MUD said: best to give it a quick clean off with the wire brush on the grinder first? Honestly wouldn't bother, only place you need it clean is where you connect the electrode, otherwise just go for it. An old dustbin is great for this, with washing soda, even removes the paint! If you use an old piece of stainless for the other electrode, then it stops it from furring up and means way less maintenance while it is running. I used an old piece of stainless exhaust, was brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 1 minute ago, Bowie69 said: Honestly wouldn't bother, only place you need it clean is where you connect the electrode, otherwise just go for it. An old dustbin is great for this, with washing soda, even removes the paint! If you use an old piece of stainless for the other electrode, then it stops it from furring up and means way less maintenance while it is running. I used an old piece of stainless exhaust, was brilliant. Sounds great! I don't have any stainless kicking about but do have some rebar so was going to use that, was planning to arrange 6-8 rods in a circle around the edge of a plastic 45 gallon drum linked together with wire and then suspend the arms in the middle. Will any washing power do? What concentration? Do you put a battery on as well as the battery charger? I think all my chargers will need this to trick them into doing anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 The rebar will sludge up quite quickly, better to have a bent plate(s) with larger surface area if you are trying that. I never had a battery connected as well, I just used an old dumb charger, which was great. I'd be a bit nervous of having a battery attached as well, as the chance of shorts is quite high should something shift, and.... well you can probably work out the rest I use this many in a dustbin, which is holding ~ 80l I think? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-1kg-DRI-PACK-SODA-CRYSTALS-MULTI-PURPOSE-CLEANER-LAUNDRY-AID-WATER-SOFTENER/401613527958 Not to be confused with washing powder.... which will eat your skin quite happily, this is a little more gentle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 When I did the inside of my axle cases I used a bit of rebar wrapped in a thick plastic mesh. I think it was a day or so before I needed to pull it out and clean it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 Washing soda purchased via Amazon prime so will be here tomorrow Ross - what is the purpose of the mesh? Just to aid desludging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 I should have added that I had the rebar down the inside of the case, so it was to stop it touching 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 Getting set up to try some electrolysis when I get home tonight @Bowie69 did you really put 6kg of soda in?! Seems a huge amount Nearly ready to start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 I'd be tempted to link the electrodes together round the top, out of the water as well. I discovered that copper wire submersed in the solution dissolves at an alarming rate on the electrode side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Yep, 6kg was no problem, just keep stirring, or add before you add the water so the water stirs it And yes, you need to link electrodes out of the water, as above. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 Thanks. I must have taken that picture before I linked them all together round the top exactly as suggested! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Oh, and on your mixture, I'd probably go for 0.5 - 1kg for that size bath. I imagine with a full 6kg you will just get lots of bubbles forming on top, but no extra de-rusting action. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 I think I used ~3K in the bath I built. About 1.2m x 0.6m x 0.4m. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 My 6kg was in a dustbin, but bigger than that, so maybe you go for 3kg to start with? I took quantities from a very good write up somewhere, it works well, even removing paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 Started with 2kg purely because that means I can make up 3 lots Had to risk it with a battery as my chargers are all too smart. I have hooked it up to the big jump start 😱though but on the minimum setting... I could go up to 50 amps!! Will leave on for an hour and then disconnect until I'm there to supervise it tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 On 10/17/2019 at 9:52 AM, L19MUD said: I did get a little further on Tuesday with the axles and suspension arms but I had a Transit clutch to do which held things up. Credit to people who manage to change a chassis in a weekend as it took nearly a day of swearing to get all the arms and brackets off the chassis and axles and get the bushes out. I am now left with this. I think I will have a go a removing the rust using electrolysis, partly because it will be working whilst I'm not there and partly because it seems like a fun thing to try! I just cleaned my radius arms, trailing arms, A frame arms & original gearbox mounts with a rotary wire brush & painted with Galvafroid primer & chassis black paint, on saying that, pretty sure the gearbox mounts got bead blasted as well before paint & later replaced with galvanised items a few months later. the paint is holding up well after 5 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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