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Morning All

I have recently got my series 1 out of long term storage (since 1992). I am trying to get it running again and have an issue with the coil wiring - what is the correct way to wire the coil on a positive earth system as my brain is struggling this morning?!!

Toby

series 1.jpg

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Is CB negative and the ignition feed positive on the coil? If so, that is how my poorly functioning brain told me to do, but still no spark. Ammeter does not dip either when the ignition is turned on (used to slightly) - suspect coil?

Toby

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CB is the earthy end of the coil (+ve on a +ve earthed vehicle) the SW is a -ve feed from the ignition switch.

Scan279.jpg.9bcaaea592c1d841a60c9e4645b313eb.jpg

If the ammeter doesn't dip then it's most likely the points are open or corroded.

Connect a sidelight bulb from the SW terminal to chassis, if it lights up when you turn the ignition on you're getting a supply to the coil.

Edited by rtbarton

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If the coil that's on there is +ve / -ve marked the +ve goes to ignition and the -ve to points regardless of earth polarity , if you suspect the coil stick an ammeter between the two terminals  it should be a few ohms and no circuit between either terminal and earth ( the case )

Nice series one , looks like an 88" ? and original paint too .

cheers

Steve b    

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6 minutes ago, steve b said:

If the coil that's on there is +ve / -ve marked the +ve goes to ignition and the -ve to points regardless of earth polarity , if you suspect the coil stick an ammeter between the two terminals  it should be a few ohms and no circuit between either terminal and earth ( the case )

Nice series one , looks like an 88" ? and original paint too .

cheers

Steve b    

Bear in mind if you have a +/- coil and connect it as you say you get the wrong polarity at the spark, but if you connect it according to polarity the circuit is wrong.

Don't stick an ammeter between the terminals, with the ignition on it will be connected across the battery.  You need an ohmmeter and test the coil out of circuit.

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oops my mistake I meant resistance setting on your multimeter  , and obviously with no connections  , thanks for pointing that out RTB

cheers

Steve b

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Thanks - I cannot get to it until next weekend again now but will try again then. Points are OK but no spark across them if you open them manually. I have  got some new plugs, new points and condenser coming. I think I may just get a coil as they are not expensive. The other puzzeling thing is the charge light is not coming on when you turn the ignition on (oil light was disconnected in favour of a gauge) almost like the feed from the switch is not working so may have to investigate that and sounds like it is it is part of the problem. wipers work though when ignition is on! Wiring loom was new when rebuilt so cannot be too serious a problem!!!

As for the series 1, yes an 88" with the original paint work (scrubs up well though), but total nut and bolt job done on everything other than the body. It was my first car and I first drove in when I lived on the middle of Exmoor when  was 11 (I have owned it since 1984 - my father said it was cheaper than buying a radio control car!!). The brakes are seized at the minute, but a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders should sort that. Every thing else seems ok - surprising for so long in storage.

Toby

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Nice history Toby , you have been lucky to keep hold of it all this time . I believe Britcar are able to supply new brake master cylinders for series ones now .

cheers

Steve b

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It lives - coil was knackered. Runs very lumpy and suspect the carb is fill of s...t. Moving in the right direction. Brakes, dynamo, clutch fuel pump (running off a temporary supply of fresh petrol at the minute) and we may be getting somewhere! 

Toby

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