JohnnoK Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 I need to pull my gearbox to fix a clutch problem, and my question is will the R380 jacking support tool ST3211M, attached below, support both the box and TC or will I need to make provision for the additional weight of the TC at the rear of the support? I have an adjustable transmission jack to get it all level etc, but the risk of it all tipping over once it is withdrawn off the engine is a question in my mind. Would a strap over the box just aft of the bellhousing be sufficient to prevent tipping or should I extend it to below the TC? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 Perhaps you're overthinking this - personally I'd probably just support rear of the Transfer Box on a 'V' shaped block sitting on a standard jack and let the gearbox rest on the crossmember - or something like that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted September 20, 2019 Author Share Posted September 20, 2019 Overthinking? ME!??? Never.....🤔 I decided to make the 2 cradles and pull the TC separately, then the gearbox. I need to replace the seals between them anyway, and this makes the load lighter to manhandle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 Yep, separating the TC is always the best plan... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted September 22, 2019 Author Share Posted September 22, 2019 1 hour ago, joe1 said: Yep, separating the TC is always the best plan... I also need to replace the seals, so it makes sense to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 So, here are the remains of my release bearing.... My question is HOW does this happen? I have never seen anything this bad before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 If the bearing seizes the heat generated is enough to melt the plastic carrier. Possible reasons: Extended or heavy use or incorrect free play between the release bearing and clutch fingers (if always in contact generates lots of heat in the bearing) HD alu carriers available as a replacement (Paddocks do one but I would still beware of the correct dimensions on an aftermarket replacement) but tbh if everything in the system has correct clearance and it doesnt have heavy use then OEM part should be fine You might have checked already but cover plate fingers may also have advanced wear and need checking (but unless really deep will be fine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 ^ This, I've had a bearing melt on my 1st Freelander, which was caused by the release arm being partly seized and never fully releasing pressure, so the bearing was under pressure all the time. I've also had a bearing fail after deep wading, muddy/sandy water got into the bellhousing and that was that - although the bearing waited until I got half way to Russia before it actually failed The alu ones will stop this melting failure mode but won't fix the underlying issue - if the bearing's going to die it's going to die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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