paime Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 So after all the welding and fannying around i finally got the old girl through her MOT. I put the doors on in a bit of a hurry the first time round as i was 1 day away from my free re-test so tried to do a better job of it over the weekend. Is there a technique/process i should follow to get them to hang properly? The doors line up quite nicely with the bottom of the rear wing and the A-post but the catch on the B post is about 3mm too high. I'm lowered the catch as much as i can but it still rubs on the door trim when opening and closing. I've played around with the shims in the hinges and i've even used (don't get mad at me, please) a trolley jack and a bit of wood to lift the rear of the door up to make sure everything is as high as it will go but still no joy. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 What did you weld, so we know what body panels may have moved? You may have to slot the bolt holes for the striker pins, but that seems odd if the same doors and tub previously aligned. Is the curve on the body lining up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 What didn't i weld might be an easier question! It was mostly done on the chassis and new outriggers as well. I put one new corner on the top of the OS bulkhead corner but the holes for the hinges were bigger than the original holes so there was no restriction in movement. There is a difference in height between the curve on the body and the door (will post pics later) and it looks like the whole door should be lifted a couple of mm straight up. Trouble is i don't have that much movement available to me in either the bottom hinge (where no work was done) or the top hinge. Thinking about it, is it possible the bulkhead has sunk a little when i removed the old outriggers getting ready for the new ones? I only did one side at a time in the hope that nothing would move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 It sounds like that is exactly what has happened. Did you take the front wings off to do the work? If not, sight along them and see if they now slope down towards the bulkhead and are out of line with the tub. I think the safest, surest way to get the alignment right wen replacing chassis parts that have body mountings is to make a little jig that either attaches to an undisturbed part of the chassis or stands on the floor (as long as the vehicle will not be moved until completion). It’s a bugger to do it any other way, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 Yup, front wings came off for the job. Feeling like a numpty now! I've got to put a new chassis on next year anyway so maybe i'll just have to deal with a slightly annoying door close until then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 In that case, it’s not worth moving the outriggers up. I’d be a bit concerned about stresses on the roof cracking it’s gutter, though, if the windscreen is pulling its front down. If its not pulling much, then I think you’ll get away with slotting the striker pin bolt holes in the B pillar, and using a spreader plate behind the pillar (helps prevent the panel cracking anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 now i think about it, getting the windscreen hinge bolts in was a nightmare and that's probably because the screen was sitting too high with the roof. It all makes sense now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 If it’s pulling that much, it might be worth grinding back the outrigger welds and lifting the bulkhead to relieve the forces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 That's a terrifying prospect tbh! It's not terrible just now and must only be out by about 3mm so i'm not massively concerned. Chassis swap is due in Spring next year so i think that will be the time to line everything back up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 The bulkhead sits on chassis mounts as well as outriggers, so don't start cutting stuff up. Windscreen bolts are never easy to fit. It sounds like you just need to adjust the top door hinge - move it forward where it attaches to the bulkhead. This will pick the rear of the door up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 I was also going to say windscreen bolts are often difficult to get back in. Particularly with a new seal fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 I had to use a couple of ratchet straps to pull the screen down enough to get the bolts into the brackets, should it be that difficult? 11 hours ago, Eightpot said: The bulkhead sits on chassis mounts as well as outriggers, so don't start cutting stuff up. Windscreen bolts are never easy to fit. It sounds like you just need to adjust the top door hinge - move it forward where it attaches to the bulkhead. This will pick the rear of the door up. I'll maybe do some minor modification with a file to the top holes where the captive nuts sit in the bulkhead and see if that makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Have to measured the gap from A pillar to B pillar at top and bottom? If the bulkhead sits on a pad that prevents it dropping (nothing like that on Series models), and the bottom hinges haven’t been moved, then the only other likely factor is that the bulkhead has tipped aft, so the doors are now tipped aft too. I’d expect some clash between the top rear corners of the door and the upper B post if that was the cause, but it’s worth looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Bulkhead is like a series one, just mounted on the bolts for the height. You could try supporting the bulkhead foot and lift it a bit, and then loosen and redo the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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