Jump to content

De Ranged shop projects


Recommended Posts

Been a bit distracted.... sorting out the 3D printer and a couple of other things

Got the first of the tool & supply organisers sorted, 4 days of printer... think the longest print was 16hrs 

ewy8Wnf.jpg

Next one is the Waterproof plugs 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a wee bit from the crimp connector box.... what prompted this is, have you ever bought a blister pack of crimps think its 20 units..... ever noticed thats too many to fit in the little pockets that come in the kits, also they never have enough pockets to seperate out male and female crimps ..... thats the excuse I'm using instead of OCD lol 

Now back to my OCD and the waterproof plug's...... done 

eYZCJKH.jpg

I've still got the electrical tool kit to do..... a couple of the tools were in my ute back at work (in Australia) before covid, talking with mates over there... my ute has been returned and those tools are most likely lost lol so I've just ordered some replacements so hopefully I'll have all this sorted soon 

Finally starting to get some of my stuff in the post.... so the list of shop projects at the moment 

Chassis Table (all cut ready to start drilling and welding... and a little bit of machining for the adjustable legs)
The Tool Organizers... I'm working on the design for my RivNuts tonight
The dry heated storage container for my printer fillament (need some clips to hold the glass bed for printer and I'm go, the fridge has been prep'ed and the thermal controler sorted)
And Suspension/Corner Weight Scales (got almost all the bits, got to finish the design for the display, started the engineering for the scales)

Oh and doing a shave and smooth on a mates engine bay lol 

Been told theres next to no work due to covid so lol I'll keep busy 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, Arjan said:

You 3D print these interiors ?

 

Yep, 4 prints to each tray 
I was going to do them with the vacumn former but thats in my tool box in Australia lol, I've got the printer so why not 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd love to do things like that here.....

Not happening though.

.. back to the trains

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/22/2020 at 1:18 AM, Arjan said:

I'd love to do things like that here.....

Having a sorted, organized, decluttered workshop has been a dream of mine.... with the new shed (at home) getting closer to happening, and having time off I'm working towards this, my goal is when I move into the shed I try to make the dream lol 
And its very good at teaching me to properly use solidworks, its surprising how much time goes into the SW's model.... but I'm getting better with each one and a little faster 
Modeling things first has also helped tweek my design process.... a case of this is the chassis table, having revisited the file a few times I've noticed a few things I can improve, I've changed the design for the bolt together attactment so that I can adjust it and level the bits as they bolt together.... as simple as adding four M10 bolts as adjusters and changing the mounting bolt holes to 21mm dia something I would have struggled to do after I'd built it 

Here's a couple of models of things I'm working on 

The RivNut organizer 

E3sR0n3.jpg

Thats in the printer now.... the next part is working out how to change the font on SW's and print some handles that are labeled.... so when these are stacked up in the tool stand or the bolt store etc I'll be able to identify them at a glance 

This is the scale part of the Corner Chassis Scales / Suspension Scales 

6jYuCTm.jpg

Heres another where Modeling it has helped me improve, I'm adding a M6 counter sunk cap on the side of the pad... this will attach the "pad" to the scale so I can take the M16 caps out of the center of the pad and replace them with some studs, this then allows me to stack legs to these..... so I can mount these on the chassis table where the suspension loads. That way I'm able to install components into a frame and even out my corner weights as I build..... I can bolt this into where a coil or coilover goes to measure the suspension load for calculating spring rates..... I can even replace the pads with eye bolts and use this in the engine crane to weigh stuff 

I'm currently modeling the housing that will hold the display for the scale (not looking forward to the electric-ery part of this project lol another bit that is stretching my skills and I'm having to learn lol) 

Link to post
Share on other sites

You make it look easy !

I wish I had time to get to your level..

Right now we're focused on building my new office - taking all spare time and energy...

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lol an illusion trust me..... my miss's was laughing about me swearing at the computer... some days I can spend hrs to achieve something simple and still come out wrong lol the organizer above is an example..... I got the first 1/4 printed and did a trail fit of the collets, hmmmm they didn't fit.... so open up the model and discovered that a copy and paste of a sketch had dropped some of its contrants and as I moved things to line up it narrowed the sketch lol 

But next time I do a copy and paste like that I'll know to check lol 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

After one 10hr wasted print there we have it the RivNuts sorted 

VRzaMfi.jpg

I'm starting to learn a few things about tuning and conditions..... one of these is, I'm getting a bit of humidity in the plastic (reduced qaulity on the detail bits, stringing, the extruder contines to extrude while the head is hot and if you look at these "tails" you can see little "nodules" on the side of the strand.... and this was on a roll that has only been open about 4 days and printing for most of that time!
I need to get my dry storage finished, I've got all the bits here, got the temperature controller working, got the fridge sorted....

2X5MkSQ.jpg

I just need to print the enclosure for the temp controler and the new fitting for the light.... catch is I want to print these in ABS and I don't have an enclosure yet or some binder clips to hold the glass bed on (been warned the magnetic bed sheet may stop sticking due to heat) 
I think I'll get some clips and give it a go anyway..... I'm using ABS for the higher melting temp, the controller will go into the outside of the door and the light fitting will mount into the foam using tapered double screw... I'm hoping it will mount the bulb as far out of the way as possible and with the tappered screw nice and securerly 

aBi8ApZ.jpg

the bit at the back is just there to sheild the electrical screw connections from any of the insulation and should mate to the sheetmetal outside of the fridge 

Right I had better go..... I need to go finish one mates car (engine bay strip and smooth) so I can make room for rust repair for another mate 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Not much to show I've been a bit distracted with custom pannel work and rust repairs 

Got another organizer done for all my fuses and relays..... changed rolls in the printer, same brand, same colour, but its not the same plastic.... I'd gotten a good handle on the previous couple of rolls by adjusting temps over the recomended (increased bed temp, to stop the corners of the base lifting and 10 degrees more on the extruder head improved layer adhesion without any drop in print qaulity)..... this roll I've gotten corner lifting on every print regardless of what I do (going to fit my glass bed and try with hair spray for the next one I do), I've had to reduce layer width down to a qaulity setting to guaranty layer adhession.... The layer height also helped with stringing 
Due to me being a cheap person I'm not that keen on I'm not going to redo the prints lol its an organizer I only use a few times a year 

I've also finished the engineering on the corner scales

MJ2RKz8.jpg

All made from the "its too good to throw out pile" lol the 10mm top from the offcuts of the chassis table and tube is some offcut exhaust tube and the sqaure covers are holesaw cutouts from speedholes 
I did discover the exhaust tube isn't round.... put them in the lathe to smooth off the welds and discovered there was enough runout I could have cut the wall out.... so I freehanded them on a flap disk 
Now I've got to sort out the design for the display and solder up the wiring and I can test these out 

 

Edited by De Ranged
just me being me
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Got my scales working..... discovered a slight issue tho lol my display modules don't have the correct inputs, they are from china and the add was badly translated, I read the wording and didn't look at the technical information... they are a sensor display and don't have the correct connections to wire the scale in.... I have ordered some correct units lol... I had a spare couple of displays I was going to use with my wheel scales (when the tension scales arrive) and the scales work on these 

Did a bit of traveling, but back in the shed so thought I'd attack the chassis table..... when I stepped up a gauge on the Unerversal Beam, from 310 UB 34 to 310 UB 40 I made a wee mistake I only checked the vertical dimension was the same lol yea.... I discovered that the top and bottom web were wider after I had nearly finished cutting them all up.... the original UB34 has a 150 wide web and I'd bought a length of 150 x 10 flat to match this for the bolt in ends... the catch is the UB40 has a 165 wide web...... 2 days of cutting, welding and grinding and marking out I finally have a small pile of correct width 10mm plate

zjh9fKm.jpg

The extra bit ment I ran short and had to get creative using offcuts lol 

rnZbijZ.jpg

This will give you an idea how keen I was to finish this, bandsaw had broken its band and I had none in stock (I can get them locally but the price is double and the qaulity isn't close to the saw maker I deal with up in Auckland) so I started in with cutting disks lol this is 14hrs of disks 

LRmkjFy.jpg

There are drifts of metal dust on my bench.... but I'm now ready to go in and start drilling and possibly build a jig to start assmebling the ends 

Edited by De Ranged
Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, De Ranged said:

Got my scales working..... discovered a slight issue tho lol my display modules don't have the correct inputs, they are from china and the add was badly translated, I read the wording and didn't look at the technical information... they are a sensor display and don't have the correct connections to wire the scale in.... I have ordered some correct units lol... I had a spare couple of displays I was going to use with my wheel scales (when the tension scales arrive) and the scales work on these 

Did a bit of traveling, but back in the shed so thought I'd attack the chassis table..... when I stepped up a gauge on the Unerversal Beam, from 310 UB 34 to 310 UB 40 I made a wee mistake I only checked the vertical dimension was the same lol yea.... I discovered that the top and bottom web were wider after I had nearly finished cutting them all up.... the original UB34 has a 150 wide web and I'd bought a length of 150 x 10 flat to match this for the bolt in ends... the catch is the UB40 has a 165 wide web...... 2 days of cutting, welding and grinding and marking out I finally have a small pile of correct width 10mm plate

zjh9fKm.jpg

The extra bit ment I ran short and had to get creative using offcuts lol 

rnZbijZ.jpg

This will give you an idea how keen I was to finish this, bandsaw had broken its band and I had none in stock (I can get them locally but the price is double and the qaulity isn't close to the saw maker I deal with up in Auckland) so I started in with cutting disks lol this is 14hrs of disks 

LRmkjFy.jpg

There are drifts of metal dust on my bench.... but I'm now ready to go in and start drilling and possibly build a jig to start assmebling the ends 

You probably know this  so sorry but it happend to a mate, don't allow Aluminium and Steel dust to mix as you will get Thermite which is a problem in a workshop with welding and grinding.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, missingsid said:

You probably know this  so sorry but it happend to a mate, don't allow Aluminium and Steel dust to mix as you will get Thermite which is a problem in a workshop with welding and grinding.

I did know that thermite was made from iron oxide and aluminum oxide (always wanted to make it) I never thought you could get it mixed well enough just from grinding..... I'm safe anyway as i clean up between jobs and I don't normally grind alloy (can't get alloy grinding disks locally)

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, missingsid said:

You probably know this  so sorry but it happend to a mate, don't allow Aluminium and Steel dust to mix as you will get Thermite which is a problem in a workshop with welding and grinding.

Aluminium powder needs to be treated with some degree of caution anywhere, in the wrong (or right depending on what you are doing) conditions it is highly reactive. Other than just iron oxide it can be blended with other commonly available ingredients and greatly increase the the power of an explosion, not going to list what or I will be describing how to manufacture explosives but I expect many people will know what they are anyway, one was demonstrated spectacularly fairly recently!. Making explosives is easy (and highly illegal), I worked on a mine and did it legally, setting them off more complex, setting them off safely and not being there at the time more difficult again with out the right gear!.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just for a future shop project 
I'm awear of breathing dust in my shop.... silicosis is a big issue with my job.... 

As you would guess there was alot of dust in my shop from all the grinding.... I was wearing a respirator (prefer this over the cheap dust masks) now anyone who has to wear one for a good portion of the day will agree they are exhusting to use 
For this reason and the fact that if its a small grind I don't bother with the mask 

I've been thinking of building a grinding station with a filtered extraction when I get the shed sorted. Idealy I'd like to keep the air in the shop (keep warmth over winter) but I think the practicality is I'll be better venting outside I can run a coarse filter and let it go 

I understand from a reactive point of view the finer the material is the greater the risk.... my general project direction is towards more alloy work and I'll be sanding welds down and parts to fit (not as efficent as alloy specific grinding disks but still quick and a bit slower so less chance of a mistake lol) is this going to create an issue in the extraction system ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

A wee update.... had a big weekend planned weld up all the bits on the chassis table.... machine up the adjustable legs... finish it off

Got one of the main beams all drilled and welded up, setup the jig for welding up the ends on the out riggers and joiners.... get it dialed in with the first one... get half way through the second and noticed the weld pool is bubbling...... bugger go check the regulator and 1/5th of a tank left but no flow lol yep bottle is empty the reg was lieing... and its half an hr after the last shop that has gas, has closed..... no welding this weekend 

4nLm1Kb.jpg

Oh well I'll get the machining done.... mount up the first shaft get about half way through cutting the thread and the carriage jumps out of gear..... for those that don't know to cut threads on the lathe you set your speeds and direction on the lathe, then you engage your carriage to the lead screw so it pulls the carriage along. When it jumps out of gear the carriage stops moving but the lathe is still turning the work. One of two things happens at this piont (beer in mind the tool is about 2mm deep into the work at the moment!). It can cut a slot around the shaft, distroying the thread or something gives.... as in this case snapping the tip off the carbide 

This isn't the end of the world (cost about $15 per piont) so turn the carbide to the next piont get it lined back up.... do 3 pass's slowly going deeper on each one testing to make certian I have it lined up properly (account for the backlash in the lead screw and lathe gearing) I'm finially happy so advance in in the the bottom of the cut and there is a BANG! stop the lathe and check can't see anything so I cut the rest of the thread 

Due to the tip having a broad end acme threads have a flat piont and this is as coarse a thread pitch as I can get for a 20mm tool holder also this stainless is gauling onto the carbide.....  I'm taking very shallow cuts 0.2mm per pass so to get all the way to 3.4mm takes a bit of time 

With the first one done, I start mounting up the second when I noticed the tip didn't look right.... in the end holding it up against a light I was able to see one edge was chipped..... The bang must have been a bit of carbide from the brocken tip lodged in the shoulder of the thread..... so the thread I've just finished cutting isn't the right profile (insert lots of different fish names!) 

So I cracked a can and sat outside for a bit had a chat with one of the other weekend shedy's who was working away 

Right 2 tips down but I still have one good one lol I could still do this so mount up the last tip and a fresh length of shaft..... get about 1.6mm deep cutting and noticed the center holding the end has stopped spinning... bugger the work is slipping in the chuck so go and get a large ring end spanner and crank the snot out of the chuck. I got another 3 pass's before it moved again and broke the tip..... some days you just can't win

So I painted the main beam I'd finished lol 

 5FboU7H.jpg

I'm not painting the top as I'm going to clamp and weld to it.... I will oil it the same as my fab table 

On a plus note I did some cleaning up in the workshop and found some more bar stock so when I get some new tips I'll just start fresh..... I think if I drill and pin the stainless shaft this will stop it turning in the chuck and I'll be good to go 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

With the acme thread, is there much angle on the side of it? (I can’t remember!). If it’s got an angle to it, are you going in square with the cross slide or at an angle? Doing the latter massively reduces the loading on the tip. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/30/2020 at 8:43 PM, Anderzander said:

I don’t do any turning - but I’m very familiar with sequences of disasters ! 😂

Well done on keeping your humour and perseverance 😊

I've learned alot of patience running sites.... lol, when I'm at home in the shed I have limited time so I try and make the most of it 

Had a resumbly good afternoon yesterday got 5 of the outriggers welded up, should get the rest done tonight, Then tidy them up and paint the next night 
One bugger tho I can't find any carbides.... everybody is on back order. So I'm not going to finish this before my next contract away .... bugger 

On 8/30/2020 at 11:43 PM, landroversforever said:

With the acme thread, is there much angle on the side of it? (I can’t remember!). If it’s got an angle to it, are you going in square with the cross slide or at an angle? Doing the latter massively reduces the loading on the tip. 

I know what you mean about using the compound slide to advance the tool along one shoulder of the thread.... I thought it was a qaulity (reduce the amount of shoulder you roll over at the edge of your cut) I didn't know it reduced loading..... there is a 15 degree angle to the tooth so I'll try it when I get some new tips 
To be honest I don't do threads that way very often..... most of what I cut is less than 2mm and its easier to just look up hte engineers handbook for the Min dia and advance sqaure to that, instead of using Pythagous to get the distance to advance the compound slide lol 

When I got home last night there was the last package waiting..... I finally have all the parts to make a pair of wheel scales, Yay! 

zMbIGQo.jpg

This is my design..... Top, sides and most of the ribs are made out of 6mm 5052 alloy (its getting cut today), there is a length of 10mm that is welded in above the scales to reinforce the top, the blue "2" is an identifier so I can match the calibrated displays to each scale, there will be a matching number on the display boxes 

4HzQWVJ.jpg

ORBNm5W.jpg

There will be a plug underneath, that way the plug cable can't be damaged while in storage 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I meant compound slide! It’s been a while! 

It means that the tip is only loaded on one side. Definitely benefits from a compound slide with minimal backlash (as does all screw cutting to be fair!).

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had a couple of issues lol.... 

First, got the call the alloy was cut... and folded, yay new toys. Get over there to pick em up.... very nice, folds have been done spot on (better than my press would have done) since this is costing me shed time I head around a couple of other places. Back at my workshop and I'm walking in with these alloy covers thinking to myself I might have made these a bit on the small side.... so I walk back outside to  check it against the tyres on the cruiser (37"s).... yep its too small!  Its not even as wide as the tyre.... bugger what a waste!
 So how much bigger does Mk 2 have to be.... go and grab a ruler to re-measure the tyre contact patch..... 320 x 320 hmmm thats what I got last time..... hmmm hang on.... yep box is 220 x220 lol, contact the profile cutters lol there forman wasn't very happy..... I can pick the new ones up today lol 

Last night lol.... My workshop was once a pet food processing plant, the land lord has divided it up into a number of different units..... one problem with this is the floor is uneven, it was raised up and sloped so when they did the wash down it would flow to the drains (most of the internal ones are now blocked, have been for years) The landlord has been doing some roofing repairs lately, working on some leaks that are annoying 
Well it started to rain last night (while I was grinding and polishing the outriggers for the chassis table), one of the annoying leaks is from an internal gutter that runs above where my work bench is lol yea its no longer an annoying leak its worse than if you hooked the garden hose up there lol 

So moved everything away (power tools and cords!) grabbed a jacket and climbed up on the roof in the dark. I couldn't find anything lol

Head back in to find a puddle an inch deep and spreading so I clear out alot more stuff, text the landlord lol 

Problem is the fall is towards the partition wall.... for this to flow to a drain in my area its going to have to flood to 3"+ then the blocked drain its going to flow to, is in the middle of the workshop lol. It will take days for it to seep through, so I set too moving stuff and stacking ontop of projects or where ever I can to get it off the floor 

The land lord turns up about an hour later with a tube of silicon..... he knows where the holes will be, so back up on the roof with some sheet metal patches to hopefully fix the problem 3/4 of an hr later (and soaking wet lol) no real difference, so we made the call to open up the gutter from below lol what a mess.... dirt, rotten wood and rusty iron..... some clown in the past has used particl board to support the gutter, this has gotten wet probably from condensation and rotted and swelled distorting the gutter (its never flowed well) the wet wood has rotted the galv out from below and someone has just dropped another layer ontop, which is rotting out at the sides where the water sits between the layers..... you want to see the look on the landlords face lol he knows how big this job has gotten lol

As an answer the landlord grabs a wheely bin and we put that under the worst of it.... I stuck around cleaning and moving stuff for a couple of hrs.... emptied the bin before I left and the landlord was coming back in the night to empty it lol I wonder how bad it will be when I get there this afternoon 

Edited by De Ranged
Link to post
Share on other sites

Turned up to find the bin 1/3rd full.... still a few puddles in the workshop but no where near the flooding I was concerned about..... The landlord was up on the roof ripping out the old rotten gutter, so gave him a hand to replace about 5m.... so now we wait and see if it leaks lol.... no rain till monday 

Thanks to all this I still haven't finished cleaning up and painting the chassis table bits lol there is still 3 250mm outriggers to go.... hopefully today lol 

On a plus note with all the moving stuff around in the shed I've had a bit of a clean out..... I'd disposed of a trailer load of scrap metal from under the bench so it was empty, now its over half full and I still have another 4 gearbox/trans to strip down..... I'm saving the alloy to melt down... another project a 2 liter LPG smelter for casting, want to have a play at investment casting using the 3D printer 
I've been working on clearing and cleaning up (thinning down) the stockpile of "one day", "too good to throw out" or "I could use that too..." with the roof issue, its sort of bumped the process.... to the point I got **** form all my mates who turned up for Friday night drinks because this is the first time in close to a decade one bench top has seen the light of day lol (When I'm in my new shop I'm going to "try" and not get sidetracked and stockpile projects lol)

Should have some pics tomorrow lol

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got all the beams done for the chassis table, 2 x 2m main beams, 2 x 520mm joiners, one 1040mm joiner (match this by bolting the 520mm joiners together), 2 x 500mm outrigger's and 6 x 250mm outriggers 

zZUTqLQ.jpg

I've still got to machine up collets that will allow some miss-alignment when I bolt the 4 x M16 bolts to lock the parts together, I've also added a pair of M10 bolts top and bottom to make leveling the outriggers and joiners when I assemble it.... with just these parts I can configer to make it 700mm or 1200mm wide (outside to outside) with 2 joining beams (can mount the outriggers facing in if I need more), 2m to 2.75m long and with the outriggers between 1.2m to 2.2m wide 

Hopefully I'll have the tips waiting for me when I finish this contract so I can get the adjustable legs machined 

Also got a bit of the wheel scales done, no welding... that is going to be a big job 6mm and 10mm on my 200 amp tig, it will do it but it takes alot of pre heat 

mgJfAgt.jpg

There's the small boxs that got folded up by mistake ..... need to find a use for them lol 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy