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De Ranged shop projects


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I need some inspiration..... I'm away for work, and to entertian myself in my spare time I've been playing with a design for Nut, Bolt and Small goods storage.... to save space I've come up with a bit of an idea 

Using parts bins (the cheapest I can find in NZ)

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-parts-bin-tray-set-with-rail-8-piece/529292.html?cgid=SCN010510#start=44

I'm going to make a cabinet that is double sided 

f6doLkZ.jpg

The idea is it will be on a frame attatched to the wall and roof of a container... they will be stored end on (green sheet facing out, 2 possibly 3 cabinetts) when I want something I pull it out end first, when I have it out far enough I will be able to spin it on a bearing centered on the top so I can access both sides. That and the main cabinet that will house these are the easy bits lol 
What I've been trying to sort out is the bearing system at the top I was working on a tapered roller bearing (a wheel bearing since I have heaps lol) my suspended weight is going to be worst case 130kg but its not going to be even (one side or one end could be alot heavier or lighter) so I'm wondering if I need to put a second bearing to stabilize....

lol Typing this up and having to think how to discribe this has dropped the "blinders".... ever find your train of thought gets caught on a track and focus's on only that direction.... more to come 

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I'd have thought a tapered roller at the bottom makes sense but it could be overkill at the top.  Your structure would have to be very rigid to hold adjustment, while the bottom is self-adjusted via gravity.  Maybe something like a sturdy teflon bush at the top, which only gets a side loading?  Just a rambling thought, sorry - I'm just about to grab a chainsaw and some rope and head up a mate's pine tree to scare myself a bit, so the brain's slightly distracted!

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23 hours ago, deep said:

I'd have thought a tapered roller at the bottom makes sense but it could be overkill at the top.  Your structure would have to be very rigid to hold adjustment, while the bottom is self-adjusted via gravity.  Maybe something like a sturdy teflon bush at the top, which only gets a side loading?  Just a rambling thought, sorry - I'm just about to grab a chainsaw and some rope and head up a mate's pine tree to scare myself a bit, so the brain's slightly distracted!

The bottom has several issues... The biggest is the rail system, by having it on roof I can have the rails extend out over the walkway down the middle of the container without effecting my abilty to move down the walkway area, if I have it from below I'm up for something similar to a draw slider system which over time will wear and sag 

Why wont gravity work on the bearing when its hanging on it from above (you are distracted lol) I think for the amount of load and use. Nylon would be plenty and I happen to have a box of nylon bushes lol

No my epiphany wasn't about the design, I've got a nice simple answer for that, that will also adjust height..... it was about where I'm placing this, I was so focused on the design I overlooked the space I need to use it lol 

 

Hope your tree went all good Deep, if you haven't done it yet I'm happy to loan you my Arb gear (harness, ropes, throwlines etc)

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48 minutes ago, De Ranged said:

The bottom has several issues... The biggest is the rail system, by having it on roof I can have the rails extend out over the walkway down the middle of the container without effecting my abilty to move down the walkway area, if I have it from below I'm up for something similar to a draw slider system which over time will wear and sag 

Why wont gravity work on the bearing when its hanging on it from above (you are distracted lol) I think for the amount of load and use. Nylon would be plenty and I happen to have a box of nylon bushes lol

No my epiphany wasn't about the design, I've got a nice simple answer for that, that will also adjust height..... it was about where I'm placing this, I was so focused on the design I overlooked the space I need to use it lol 

 

Hope your tree went all good Deep, if you haven't done it yet I'm happy to loan you my Arb gear (harness, ropes, throwlines etc)

The tree went well, thanks.  A mature twin pine leaning in a very bad direction over a building site.  It had to swing about 120 degrees to miss everything, so it took some thinking.  We picked a day with a strong, favourable wind and used the Land Rover winch with snatch block to apply a compensatory load.  Then I went up with my own ropes and harness (recent purchase but I did it for work years ago) and trimmed a fair bit of weight off the bad side.  Could have been easier if I hadn't sold my arborist saw last week - the "mid-sized" saw isn't ideal in a tight spot like that!  Slowest part was getting the rope up to start with.  I definitely need a throwline that works better than a bit of galv pipe, ahem.  Anyway, both trunks came down perfectly and I was pretty chuffed.  Quite stiff today though.  Might get some spikes for the next tree...

And sorry, didn't read your other post properly and didn't realise it was a hanging design, duh.

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6 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Your workshop ‘side’ projects are bigger than my main projects 😳😮😊

Lol I like to learn and develope so on my stuff I tend to push the limits.... and this is for my new shop witch is sort of a dream come true so i want it to be a bit next level 

6 hours ago, deep said:

 Quite stiff today though.  Might get some spikes for the next tree...

I did a job for the neibour a yr ago and it was painfull lol I was slow and struggled and to be honest it was an easy climb..... its amazing how fast you loose that ability

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".. I definitely need a throwline that works better than a bit of galv pipe, ahem. .."

I use dummy's we use for working the dogs for that - very effective.

...and I once lost one and the dog found it for me.. 😄

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On 9/15/2020 at 7:58 AM, Anderzander said:

Your workshop ‘side’ projects are bigger than my main projects 😳😮😊

My current project is a strip and re-purpose of an old farm trailer to make it a road trailer (fitting springs, replacing wooden bearers with steel, making sides etc. etc.).  I feel like a kid playing in a sandpit next to any of DeRanged's sidetracks!  I've been in his old workshop and everything is just so well done.  It's amazing.  Actually, I used the big shackles I bought off him on my first visit to help pull that tree over, so we've neatly tied this thread together again!

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On 9/16/2020 at 8:29 AM, deep said:

My current project is a strip and re-purpose of an old farm trailer to make it a road trailer (fitting springs, replacing wooden bearers with steel, making sides etc. etc.).  I feel like a kid playing in a sandpit next to any of DeRanged's sidetracks!  I've been in his old workshop and everything is just so well done.  It's amazing.  Actually, I used the big shackles I bought off him on my first visit to help pull that tree over, so we've neatly tied this thread together again!

Thank you for the comment glad you are able to put them to use lol they were just gathering dust with me.... your always welcome back over to share a beer 

Got a rough design sorted for the pivot and carrage etc but need dimensions to finish it off.... will sort that when I'm home 

Was thinking about the storage of things for the new shed, and came up with a redesign of my corner build scales..... so they will fit in a case with there display and cable, yes it is sort of OCD but I grew up in my fathers shed where to find something was a 45min waste of time lol he was all good ask him and he'd know where 3 of them were... I do have a habit of putting things down but I work to the idea if a tool has a place and it goes back its easy to find it next time so.....

I narrowed the scales to fit in cases 

MwSsjiK.jpg

The holes in the sides are for M8 grub screws so I can lock the ends on when I take the counter sunk caps out to fit studs, the studs will fit to extentions 

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  • 1 month later...

Been a bit distracted.... I got some work, some actual paying work lol.... Bl..dy Covid cr@p 

But back in the shop and nearly cleared my mates truck.... so started into some of my (long list of) projects lol cutting the bolt collets for the chassis table only 40 more to do lol 

Finally got a shower enclosure from a builder mate 

UF3YIq4.jpg

So I can start to build a solar air heater for the shed..... kinda funny I'm building this at the start of summer lol but I've kinda reached critical mass on my storage of adult coke cans 

u8Z4HSy.jpg

I'm going to punch out each end and form them into tubes, spray them matt black, lay them up in a box under the glass... duct the top into the shop, the convection current as the air heats should pump the hot air into the shop.... this is intended as a test piece to play with things, toying with the idea of using a cheap solar cell to power a computer fan to improve draw, also the effect of turbulance in the tubes (leaving more ragged edges where each can joins), length of the tubes etc 

 

Bought a new toy..... a Suzuki DR650 going to set it up to do some adventure riding. Did alot of reading and tried a few differnt bikes before I chose this one. It's not quite what i want but its the best to build into what I want..... Had it out for a nice sunday ride with a couple of mates... its a bit of a learning curve remembering how to ride on road, been over 25yrs
A nice tractor of a motor, she is a fun ride even on the road but the front forks have to go and the headlight windscreen is worse than useless it directs the air up at my helmet
So been doing some research to swop out the front forks for a set of Upside Down Forks from a Yamaha WR450 once I've got the forks sorted I'll make up a new fairing headlight... have a bit of a play at aerodynamics 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Done alot of cleaning, been sorting out all the old motors, gearbox's and mechanical stuff I had stashed away..... almost all of it there is nothing wrong with it... I just can't remember what they are from lol, 4 scrap runs and 2 tip runs 

The test solar air heater is progressing 

bDTquTR.jpg

Carving out the ends of the cans is very tedious.... I'll be able to put it out and test heat output difference between the different methods I've used to hollow the cans out "
I'm really hoping there is little difference or that the method that removes the least material from teh cans is the best lol 

 

Talking with a local shop owner, I've ended up with another "help out" project, a KP60 toyota starlett.... Its a memorial project from a mate that has floundered, the panel and paint has been done it just needs put back together 

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I don't know if it will work on beer cans, but I often open cans by lightly grinding the rolled over lip of the lid flange. The top comes off cleanly and all it needs is a light run over to de burr the edges. The bottoms will be a different story...

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12 hours ago, JohnnoK said:

I don't know if it will work on beer cans, but I often open cans by lightly grinding the rolled over lip of the lid flange. The top comes off cleanly and all it needs is a light run over to de burr the edges. The bottoms will be a different story...

The top is very light I can cut them out easily with a box cutter, I've tried a number of different patterns and knives to cut it.... a hole saw just bites and crumples the can 
Been thinking how a can has enough structure in its side to take my weight standin on it..... I might be able to build some sort of punch setup that you drop it in and a set of knives. I need to know what shape to build too 

Had a bit of fun last night coming home from the workshop 231mm of rain yesterday.... when I went to leave the bonnet of the ute went underwater so turned around and parked up at the shed and got my bike.... pouring rain and I'm on the bike lol, got out onto the street my feet are soaked but all good then I discovered there is a section of the street that is lower (never noticed that before) I used to ride rivers when I was younger so as the water got to the seat height I wound the power on to force a bow wave and keep the seat out of the water..... catch is that sheets the water up off the front wheel at me lol up till then I was thinking I should get a pic of how deep 
50m later the street came up.... enough to let me slow down, about level with a car that had been abandoned in the road guessing it was hydraulic'd 

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1 hour ago, De Ranged said:

The top is very light I can cut them out easily with a box cutter, I've tried a number of different patterns and knives to cut it.... a hole saw just bites and crumples the can 
Been thinking how a can has enough structure in its side to take my weight standin on it..... I might be able to build some sort of punch setup that you drop it in and a set of knives. I need to know what shape to build too 

Had a bit of fun last night coming home from the workshop 231mm of rain yesterday.... when I went to leave the bonnet of the ute went underwater so turned around and parked up at the shed and got my bike.... pouring rain and I'm on the bike lol, got out onto the street my feet are soaked but all good then I discovered there is a section of the street that is lower (never noticed that before) I used to ride rivers when I was younger so as the water got to the seat height I wound the power on to force a bow wave and keep the seat out of the water..... catch is that sheets the water up off the front wheel at me lol up till then I was thinking I should get a pic of how deep 
50m later the street came up.... enough to let me slow down, about level with a car that had been abandoned in the road guessing it was hydraulic'd 

I reckon tickling the top edge with a grinder will work. That leaves you an opening to punch the lower out through 

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On 11/10/2020 at 8:01 AM, De Ranged said:

The top is very light I can cut them out easily with a box cutter, I've tried a number of different patterns and knives to cut it.... a hole saw just bites and crumples the can 
Been thinking how a can has enough structure in its side to take my weight standin on it..... I might be able to build some sort of punch setup that you drop it in and a set of knives. I need to know what shape to build too 

Had a bit of fun last night coming home from the workshop 231mm of rain yesterday.... when I went to leave the bonnet of the ute went underwater so turned around and parked up at the shed and got my bike.... pouring rain and I'm on the bike lol, got out onto the street my feet are soaked but all good then I discovered there is a section of the street that is lower (never noticed that before) I used to ride rivers when I was younger so as the water got to the seat height I wound the power on to force a bow wave and keep the seat out of the water..... catch is that sheets the water up off the front wheel at me lol up till then I was thinking I should get a pic of how deep 
50m later the street came up.... enough to let me slow down, about level with a car that had been abandoned in the road guessing it was hydraulic'd 

Yeah, I thought it was a bit wet on this side of the hill but you had as much in an hour as we had in a day! Well done for escaping...

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Got all the cans done, glued in and painted so put it out to test (I've left the glass off so the heat trapped under this doesn't effect measurement of the can/tubes)

VwuJHAD.jpg

I set it up at about the ideal for solar panel light collection (40 degrees off horizontal, for my latitude), I was measuring with an IR thermometer (have some issues with certian surfaces)

I took measurements randomly over the day from air temps 26 C to 15 C and sun shine varied from bright and strong to overcast and cloudy 

I measured the surface temp of the top cans in each tube and some metal blocks I placed accross the end of the tubes (so I could measure the exiting air temp of each style of tube)

IAVPtuB.jpg

I didn't bother to record temps I was looking for which was most efficent and trends 

The surprising thing was the winner wasn't the tubes with the most interferance and slowest air flow, it was the tubes with the single tab as each join that was bent like a propeller blade (closest in the bottom pic)

The open tubes while having the hotest suface temp were roughly 20% less air temp, the middle ones that I just cut and bent the bottom and top (middle bunch of tubes) I think restricted the air flow the interesting bit was the surface temp was 10% less than the open tubes but 10% more than the winning option.... maybe with a fan drawing air through there maybe a gain with this option 
At its hotest 26 C air temp and full sun the surface temp was 48 C on the open tubes (the hotest surface temp, but the black colour gave me trouble with the IR thermometer got results from 58-35 C when measuring that, but I take the most consistant of 4 or 5 measurements)

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7 minutes ago, deep said:

Yeah, I thought it was a bit wet on this side of the hill but you had as much in an hour as we had in a day! Well done for escaping...

Was a fun little adventure lol 

 

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23 hours ago, landroversforever said:

I reckon tickling the top edge with a grinder will work. That leaves you an opening to punch the lower out through 

That makes alot more sense lol sometimes the blinders drop down and you miss the obvious.... 

Now to make a frame to hold this and a couple more..... 

Haveing to put on wet riding gear to ride into the shop yesterday I had a bit of an idea to do with this air heater lol 

4VYnyMu.jpg

So I can hang these up by the door..... 

QpJOTjG.jpg

That will hold the jacket open so I can blow warm air up in there to dry them out 

Time to go build some alloy bits for my bike, really enjoying riding 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been welding up alloy bits for my bike.... finished the first round of this so decide instead of sitting on the half full bottle of gas I'll use it up and return it to BOC (there rental costs are a bit painfull lol)

So I setup to weld the wheel scales 6mm and 10mm alloy.... Doing the outside corners, so I setup for a horizontal weld (I'm pushing the limit of material with my 200amp Tig so not even going to attempt to do this vertical ) wind my poor Tig up to 200amps, do a practice pass all good..... stand on the peddle, Damm this is loud!, I'm holding there heating waiting for the sparkles (the oxide) to clear and form a shinny pool.... because I'm in a 90 degree fillet the arc is focusing on one side or the other, so I move the tungston deep in the fillet (I'm a mm... 2mm off either side now), beauty..... the pool is starting to form on both sides..... there we go..... right time to bridge the pools accross so start to wobble the torch and break the surface tension and wick the two pools into one...... PHSTTTT.... Bugger dipped the tip. Im just too shakky lol do another practice run and yep the weight of the cable is enough to shake me.... so grab the mig and 

Hs3cPXw.jpg

I now have a steady for my wrist 
Right grind the tip, set back up and I'm looking at the weld area there's a bit of that blackish oxide so grab the die grinder and whip the surface off..... with the airmuffs on I noticed my ears ringing, damm this welder is loud! grab some ear plugs 

All good way we go.... things just arn't working right the pool is building up to one side, filler rod is melting back and dragging the molten material out of the pool.... its been a while since I've welded at this level must be my technique... so play with torch angle/height things improve but still not working right.... I'm a couple of corners in. They are welded lol just not nice I've played with my technique to the point I know its not that so I stop and check the settings..... change my AC balance a little bit, it is a slight improvement but still not right. I've finished all 4 corners on one of the scales now so I stop to change scale covers and noticed theres alot of condensation on the regulator..... what the!..... the flow gauge is max'd..... one of my mates lol, has wound it right in, it took a couple of turns to get the needle off 30Lpm..... dial it back to 8Lpm and 

UhsoBMS.jpg

I'm no artist lol but thats good enough..... oh and changed my mind on doing full welds on the inside braces becasue of the thickness of material its sucking the heat out of the weld so the welding is very slow.... I've got enough material it should be plenty strong enough for the leverage .... time will tell 

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