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Uprated clutch bits?


Steve 90
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Right, Im just about to swap the motor in my challenge 90. Its a 200TDi (discovery type) thats running on a Freg 2.5 petrol transmission. While im at it I'll change anything else in there that may cause trouble any time soon.

I'll defo put a new clutch in, Ive been told a 130 clutch is the way to go! Are these stronger/better/longer lasting?

secondly I will put a new fork in as they are so well known for pushing through. Does anyone do a decent heavy duty/uprated one?

Third ive heard of people fitting heavy duty release bearings? Are they prone to trouble? Who does heavy duty one's if one is needed?

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Might be worth researching a ceramic clutch - a search will reveal supplier details. Not much more than a genuine one IIRC.

Definitely reinforce the fork....

I had this happen on boxing day...

DSC00530.jpg

Major PITFA. Genuine replacement reinforced with a bit of the old fork...

DSC00534.jpg

I researched getting an ali machined release bearing - they're about £45 plus VAT - but thought that if the clutch is getting so hot that it melts the release bearing, I'm doing something REALLY wrong :D

Might be worth doing the seals while you're there.

Haynes state it's much easier to remove the engine rather than drop the box...I'm inclined to agree having just done the box method :angry:

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Slid it back Les.

I think in terms of undoing props, gearbox mount bolts, floor panels etc vs engine mounts, intercooler and coolant hoses, a fuel line and a multiplug the engine'd be the easier one. Major pain for me is working under the wagon. I hate it :angry:

Just my two penneth... ;)

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I didn't use studs, but some people do, and it's a good idea if there's a chance that alignment is going to be lost.

I've never done a clutch by the engine out method, but you still have to remove the transmissiobn tunnel to get at the bell housing bolts, and if the panels are correctly fitted - you have to remove the floor plates as well. So in reality I would hazard a guess that there's less physical work to move the box back. Although I'm not expert enough to know for sure.

Les. :)

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Steve you changing the engine cause its cream crackered? or going V8? if engine is good i can find it a home! ie ME

James, Its done 245,000miles, the last 5-10,000 running lots af fuel and 1.1bar of boost and mostly in low box, got a nasty knock and a worrying rattle a low compression and a head gasket that has blown throgh to a pushrod tube. Even tho head gasket is not a big job with everything else and the millage I feel taking the head off is probably gona be opening a can of worms so I bought a M.O.T. failure Disco and im gona pinch the motor and scrap/break the rest. Will probably keep the expensive bits off the old motor as spare's, Fuel pump, turbo etc.

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Ralph 'Porn King' Western has a 200TDi release bearing and clutch cover with 130 plate in his 110 Limo :blink:

Just buy a 130 clutch plate if that's what you are intending to do. I don't know anything about other mods for the whole kit.

Marsie:-

Also drilled and tapped the flwheel from M8 to M10

I don't suppose you have pics or at least more info on this please?

Les. :)

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Marsie:-

I don't suppose you have pics or at least more info on this please?

Les. :)

Sorry Les no i dont have any photos.Did the mod about 3 years ago.Cant remember why i drilled out the boltholes,seem to remember the 90 bolts were sloppy in the 130 cover so drilled and tapped them to M10.Only downside was a slightly heavier clutch pedal so maybe the 130 slave/master cylinder is also different? been in 3 years now and had some serious grief but has been ok upto now :huh:

Sorry couldnt be more helpful,forgot all about it till reading Steves thread :rolleyes:

Paul

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I think using the 130 clutch pedal arrangement is what makes the difference and not so much the master or slave cylinders - the lever ratio is better to compensate for the heavier clutch action.

Les. :)

That makes sense,suppose it only takes a very small difference in the pivots to make a difference?

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I think using the 130 clutch pedal arrangement is what makes the difference and not so much the master or slave cylinders - the lever ratio is better to compensate for the heavier clutch action.

Les. :)

the clutch pedal assembly as used in 300tdi engined Defenders [was ANR3400 [mine] now SUB100320] gives a lighter pedal feel & easier operation.

my 110 has a Valeo 130 FTC1994 friction plate [aka 130 heavy duty] which Les & I fitted recently.

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