Steve 90 Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Right, Im just about to swap the motor in my challenge 90. Its a 200TDi (discovery type) thats running on a Freg 2.5 petrol transmission. While im at it I'll change anything else in there that may cause trouble any time soon. I'll defo put a new clutch in, Ive been told a 130 clutch is the way to go! Are these stronger/better/longer lasting? secondly I will put a new fork in as they are so well known for pushing through. Does anyone do a decent heavy duty/uprated one? Third ive heard of people fitting heavy duty release bearings? Are they prone to trouble? Who does heavy duty one's if one is needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Steve re. clutch fork, when we changed my gearbox in the Disco we welded a bit of 3mm plate across the back so that it covered the rear of "button". Unfortunely its only been on there 15 months so can't report on logevity yet! Certainly worth doing for the piece of mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 A reinforced clutch fork is definitely a good idea, considering how quickly they wear out. I have to modify some for forum members, but it's easy enough to do yourself if you can weld. Clutch Porn:- Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Steve you changing the engine cause its cream crackered? or going V8? if engine is good i can find it a home! ie ME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiWhite Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Might be worth researching a ceramic clutch - a search will reveal supplier details. Not much more than a genuine one IIRC. Definitely reinforce the fork.... I had this happen on boxing day... Major PITFA. Genuine replacement reinforced with a bit of the old fork... I researched getting an ali machined release bearing - they're about £45 plus VAT - but thought that if the clutch is getting so hot that it melts the release bearing, I'm doing something REALLY wrong Might be worth doing the seals while you're there. Haynes state it's much easier to remove the engine rather than drop the box...I'm inclined to agree having just done the box method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Did you completely remove the box Si, as in drop it right on the floor, or did you slide it back far enough to do the clutch? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiWhite Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Slid it back Les. I think in terms of undoing props, gearbox mount bolts, floor panels etc vs engine mounts, intercooler and coolant hoses, a fuel line and a multiplug the engine'd be the easier one. Major pain for me is working under the wagon. I hate it Just my two penneth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Si/Les - how so on the slide back bit? do you use studs in the bellhousing then move it on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 I didn't use studs, but some people do, and it's a good idea if there's a chance that alignment is going to be lost. I've never done a clutch by the engine out method, but you still have to remove the transmissiobn tunnel to get at the bell housing bolts, and if the panels are correctly fitted - you have to remove the floor plates as well. So in reality I would hazard a guess that there's less physical work to move the box back. Although I'm not expert enough to know for sure. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 Steve you changing the engine cause its cream crackered? or going V8? if engine is good i can find it a home! ie ME James, Its done 245,000miles, the last 5-10,000 running lots af fuel and 1.1bar of boost and mostly in low box, got a nasty knock and a worrying rattle a low compression and a head gasket that has blown throgh to a pushrod tube. Even tho head gasket is not a big job with everything else and the millage I feel taking the head off is probably gona be opening a can of worms so I bought a M.O.T. failure Disco and im gona pinch the motor and scrap/break the rest. Will probably keep the expensive bits off the old motor as spare's, Fuel pump, turbo etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 Does anyone know anything about the 130 cluch thing then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Yes, sorry. The 130 clutch has 2 extra shock springs in the centre and is also a wee bit larger in dia - 5mm I think, which overall works out at quite a bit more contact area. If you are going to work your clutch hard it's worth doing I think. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 Well its used for challenge events and hard playing so it does get a stack of abuse. Recon thats the way to go then. Is there any specific 130 to go for or are they all the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Tech archive: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4380 and the original author only left my house this AM with his wife on route to london before a trip home to Aus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 Thanks Tony, I had read that earlier which is where I got the 130 cluch thing from I was just wondering if there was any more info on any of this! B.T.W. I think the tech archive is excellent and a brilliant source of info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsie Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Got a HD 130 clutch in my 90.Also drilled and tapped the flwheel from M8 to M10.As for the uprated release bearing,Rakeway do one-Picture in their ad in T.O.R cant remember ££s though Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Ralph 'Porn King' Western has a 200TDi release bearing and clutch cover with 130 plate in his 110 Limo Just buy a 130 clutch plate if that's what you are intending to do. I don't know anything about other mods for the whole kit. Marsie:- Also drilled and tapped the flwheel from M8 to M10 I don't suppose you have pics or at least more info on this please? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsie Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Marsie:-I don't suppose you have pics or at least more info on this please? Les. Sorry Les no i dont have any photos.Did the mod about 3 years ago.Cant remember why i drilled out the boltholes,seem to remember the 90 bolts were sloppy in the 130 cover so drilled and tapped them to M10.Only downside was a slightly heavier clutch pedal so maybe the 130 slave/master cylinder is also different? been in 3 years now and had some serious grief but has been ok upto now Sorry couldnt be more helpful,forgot all about it till reading Steves thread Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 I think using the 130 clutch pedal arrangement is what makes the difference and not so much the master or slave cylinders - the lever ratio is better to compensate for the heavier clutch action. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsie Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 I think using the 130 clutch pedal arrangement is what makes the difference and not so much the master or slave cylinders - the lever ratio is better to compensate for the heavier clutch action.Les. That makes sense,suppose it only takes a very small difference in the pivots to make a difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Guy at work recently changed the clutch on his LDV van (R380) because of the release arm failing. The new arm came out the box already reinforced, so why don't LandRover do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 I think using the 130 clutch pedal arrangement is what makes the difference and not so much the master or slave cylinders - the lever ratio is better to compensate for the heavier clutch action.Les. the clutch pedal assembly as used in 300tdi engined Defenders [was ANR3400 [mine] now SUB100320] gives a lighter pedal feel & easier operation. my 110 has a Valeo 130 FTC1994 friction plate [aka 130 heavy duty] which Les & I fitted recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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