Jocklandjohn Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Just in process of replacing pinion seal, seal is in but it was a right old bugger to fit. Now refitting the flange. New flange I had just in case original one was badly damaged/scored seems incrediby tight to get on so I'm giving up on it and going back to the original one, and its now back in without any drama. I've read the various threads on the preload seetings and crush tubes etc and massive (maybe!) torque required to refix to original settings. However mines was quite easily removed when it came apart and now apparently despite being at the marks I'd punched on nut/flange there seems to be quite a bit of movement possible in the flange/shaft assembly. By 'movement' I mean if I'm lying underneath with the propshaft on the flange and bolted up I can 'wiggle' the assembly in the nose of the diff up and down and side to side against the rubber seal. Is this normal or should the big nut be tightened up even more to remove that movement? I'm not even at 50ft/lbs yet and some stuff I've read has suggested upwards of 100ft/lbs is required. Question basically is - should there be any such movement on the prop/flange/shaft assembly or should it be rigid? (I have no such similar movement on the front diff for comparison) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Should be rigid, did you check the bearings? Wear in these are the most likely reason for play up/down/left/right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 No didnt do anything other than swap seal and start to tighten. Thanks for advice though, I'll start giving it a bit more tightness and see what transpires. Its on 300,000 miles - so no spring chicken, although to be fair not stressful treatment as I'm pretty sedate on and off the road (mostly forest tracks and fields) and with regular oil changes (whether that helps or not!). Will report back.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 (edited) 45 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Should be rigid, did you check the bearings? Wear in these are the most likely reason for play up/down/left/right. Ok - just whacked it up nearer 100ft/lb and it all started to tighten nicely, set the wrench to just past 125 and gave it a click and bit and its nicely tight and freely rotating (apparently!) with no lateral up/down movement at all. I'm just going for a drive to see what happens. I suspect the nut must have been a good deal loooser than it should be. Thanks for the quick feedback Bowie - always instils confidence when tightening stuff up to silly tightnesses when an adult advises you! Edited October 17, 2019 by Jocklandjohn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 A new crush tube only starts to crush at 250’lbs and nets exponentially more torque to crush further. I set mine to 150’lbs when replacing seals as that is easily enough to deal with any elasticity in the tube without risking compressing it further than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 3 minutes ago, Snagger said: A new crush tube only starts to crush at 250’lbs and nets exponentially more torque to crush further. I set mine to 150’lbs when replacing seals as that is easily enough to deal with any elasticity in the tube without risking compressing it further than before. Grand thanks. Just took it for a run and its spot on. There's less 'slack' in the transmission too - noticeable when letting the clutch out so it must have been rather loose previously. Another job done....! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 What snagger said - official figure is 250 torques or f*** tight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Good job, hopefully you caught it before crown wheel or pinion damaged happened! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 50 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Good job, hopefully you caught it before crown wheel or pinion damaged happened! Well it all sounds smooth enough, no graunches or groaning, no shuddering and not much rubbish in the oil either. Runs very quietly and when out for a run a wee while ago I acccelerated and stuck it in neutral and coasted on low revs and it was fairly noise-free so hopefully all ok! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Cool, sounds good, no glitter in the oil is a good thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: Cool, sounds good, no glitter in the oil is a good thing! Well its one thing I've done fairly religiously is change the diff oil. For what little it costs I figured its worth it in the long term so here we are 300,000 miles down the road and it 'seems' to have been good therapy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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