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Eberspächer advice


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I agree with the comment about how good these are - my D1LC is brilliant. I just have a switch on mine but would like to fit a timer if I ever get round to it. It will defrost the car quickly on icy mornings. Is a nice additional heatsource when it gets really cold and means I can leave the dogs in the car nice and warm even in the coldest weather (yes, I am soft on them!)

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17 hours ago, supaimpy said:

wont run on veg oil

, there are only a few of the newer units that will run on bio fuel as a mix,  but D1LC at least 20 years old , if you want to run on anything other than Diesel then use kerosene/paraffin.

Thanks - its as i suspected. If i ever get around to fitting a twin tank system it will be fine, but currently I just make sure I have had a few tanks of diesel only run through in the colder weather before switching it on as I change from SVO/SVO+diesel mixes to 100% diesel as the days get colder anyway.

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5 hours ago, ianmayco68 said:

Here you go 

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I’m looking for a 7day controller which ones can I use ? As I see some are only compatible with newer units.

cheers Ian 

June 2013  Manufacture  will look next week to see its original fitment

 

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As far as maintenance is concerned, if it’s currently working, just give it 30 minutes at maximum power.  That should decoke the gauze and combustion chamber - they’re pretty good at self cleaning at full heat, but soot up if used on lower heat settings or intermittently, from what I have read on numerous sites and seen on a few videos.  They’re a great piece of kit to have.

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As it looks fairly new and in good shape and the fact that it’s been fitted to a works van and been professionally installed , I’m thinking that it’s been serviced regularly so think everyone’s advice about leaving it is the way I’m going to go , would like to know where people have installed there’s please ? Bearing in mind I intend sleeping in the back when I do the scot500 , and as the truck is used for green laning and off roading but nothing too extreme I need to get the intake pipe and exhaust high as possible .

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Under the cubby box seems the most common.  There are off-the-shelf boxes made for the purpose, but you could fabricate your own more cheaply.  Here is one from a supplier I quite like: https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/blog/2019/06/12/under-cubby-box-locker-guide/ (go to the last version at the bottom of the page).

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I have mine in the Mudstuff locker with a cubby above it. This is good and bad. Good is that the cabin air inlet and outlet are well placed and access to the heater is easy for the loom (from fusebox in the battery box). Bad though in that the cubby is now very high and even though I am tall, I find it is taking a lot of getting used to. The Roamerdrive lever is also hard to reach but at least this isn't too frequently used.

From underneath on the combustion side of things the pipe routing is easy. The only trouble I had was radiated heat from the exhaust which softened nearby underseal and grease flung up there from over zealous propshaft maintenance. I have scraped that away and used some exhaust wrap. Also I had to be careful with some sound deadening. This doesn't like getting too hot either.

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For the timer question, IIRC they only need a basic contact-closure (switch/relay) to turn them on (although swanky diagnostic controllers can talk over the K-bus), so almost any timer will do - there's 12v versions of those 7-day timer plugs on eBlag for not much. First one I found, just for reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333148872583

On the fuel side, small plastic or alloy tanks made in the far east are cheap on eBlag, you could keep a couple of litres of diesel in one of those completely separate. It's what I did on the 109 because it's a petrol V8 and the heater was a D1LC. Alternatively I've seen people adapt small jerry cans (the 5-10L ones) for the same purpose with a pickup in the cap. You might even be able to buy them like it, I've not looked.

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I have one, its excellent. I fitted it in behind the bulkhead (in an existing storage box I've built) with holes drilled through bulkhead into the area behind the seat for the internal air supply. The exhaust and combustion air pipes are just below the floor and behind the outrigger for protection. A co2 monitor and smoke detector inside help allay any fears of suffocating, but even on still nights I've not detected any problems with fumes coming in. I make a point of not sleeping with it on though.

Re controllers - I *might* have one that will work for you. I've got an engine heater (D4W) which I've upgraded the controller on and I might have the other one still around - its old - probably 20 years but was working fine when it came off. You can set it 24 hours ahead so it will switch on in the morning for you. I upgraded to one with diagnostic readout - which has proved HUGELY valuable for determining problems. The problems were not integral to the device but a consequence of a careless 'professional' vehicle renovation I had done which corrupted the wiring and I was able to figure out what was going on with the diagnostic controller which was cheaper to buy than trip to the Eberspacher dealer, but also since then useful for the diagnosing of key parts wearing out which does happen of course.

One tip - put the wee fuel dosing pump in something underneath. I built a wee alloy box and put the pump inside on the inner face of the chassis. It can be clicky-noisy and this reduces that noise signficantly and really protects it from road mank. Run the fuel line inside some clear hose pipe too - thats more protection and also helps keep the diesel from waxing in sub-zero temps (which really should not be too much of a problem anyway).

If you want I'll have a poke about for the controller?

 

Edited by Jocklandjohn
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Cheers John , and thank you very much for the offer of the controller but I’ve brought one of the new easystart controllers as I thought the diagnostics would be beneficial in helping  me and it was on eBay new a a good price . But thank you very much for the offer I’m sure a few others might be able to make use of it.

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1 hour ago, ianmayco68 said:

Cheers John , and thank you very much for the offer of the controller but I’ve brought one of the new easystart controllers as I thought the diagnostics would be beneficial in helping  me and it was on eBay new a a good price . But thank you very much for the offer I’m sure a few others might be able to make use of it.

No problems! The diagnostic unit is a sensible purchase!

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So the big question, do you all recommend genuine Eberspächer parts for the exhaust and exhaust pipe, intake hose , fuel line and the vents or are the cheaper stuff on eBay of good quality and okay to use?

cheers Ian 

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I have bought a cheap chinese kit for mine - i just wanted a new intake pipe for it. The Chinese kit was less than a genuine intake pipe and it is fine. It came with a filter that is a waste of space (but I was not running a filter in the first place so didnt mind) and a silencer that may do something when I fit it!

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28 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:

So the big question, do you all recommend genuine Eberspächer parts for the exhaust and exhaust pipe, intake hose , fuel line and the vents or are the cheaper stuff on eBay of good quality and okay to use?

cheers Ian 

I spent a bit of money on some directional vents - and I’m glad I did because they have proved robust (my daughter keeps kicking them!) and they feel and look a nice thing too.

Pipework I didn’t buy branded - but did look for decent reviews.

Silencers - I bought an intake and borrowed a genuine exhaust silencer, and strangely neither made any appreciable difference and I’ve left both off. I was surprised at that, having read on here what a positive effect they had. 🤷‍♂️ 

The one thing I bought cheap and regretted was the clips - they proved to be carp and I ended up buying again, and better quality.

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For the combustion air  just use flexible plastic conduit , the exhaust from Eberspacher is expensive, but if you fit it correctly with no really tight bends its good stuff. Plenty of genuine dealers in the UK most of the larger ones are active on the internet  , but not as cheap as Chinese prices

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I bought a kit of parts from the eBay supplier called eberwebasto (I think Kirkhams in Mansfield). The directional air vent is a Webasto but the other stuff isn't branded. I fitted an exhaust "silencer" and wrapped the exhaust because I didn't want the excessive heat near the underside of my seatbox. You need to be carefully about routing the fuel line to ensure it is kept away from the exhaust. I ran mine in a narrow plastic conduit.

The kit also contained the necessary clamps and also olives and unions for the fuel pipes. There are two sizes, with the pump-to-heater being a very small ID. On the input side you can choose. The pump needs to be inclined slightly towards the heater. The instructions show this. 

In operation the unit is very quiet inside the vehicle with the sound of the fan (variable) and the pulsing of the fuel pump which is barely discernible. Outside it's a different story. My D2 is new and at initial start-up it always goes to full-fire for a minute or so whatever the target temperature. With a cold interior of course this continues for some time. It is very noisy outside when this is happening, even with the muffled exhaust.. Some noise comes from the combustion air intake pipe too and I have wondered about a silencer on this too. Time will tell.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi all, found this thread as I was searching for Eberspacher D2 info. recently bought a Airtronic D2 new from Kirknalls in Chesterfield currently in the process of fitting into my 110CSW, I have it between the front seats in a Mudstuff locker https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/collections/mud-stuff/products/mud-heater-locker this was fairly easy to fit, 

the D2 fit has had a few problems, working in the cold outside on my drive meant the big loom in its PVC tubing was a bit difficult to handle to get it to sit where I wanted it, so far, the heater is in place, wiring is almost done, the easy select control panel sits on the angled face of my Mudstuff centre console & was fairly easy to connect,,

I fitted the little fuse-box on to the vehicles fuse panel below the dash, I couldn't fit it in my battery bay as it's full of 2 big batteries, fitted the air intake & exhaust pipes to opposite sides the intake tube is attached to the forward face of the left 2nd outrigger & exhaust to the rear face of the right 2nd outrigger.

just the fuel pump to connect after I've fitted the wires terminals & plug outer body, the fuel line from pump to heater is done, just the line from fuel tank to pump to do, as with the cold & big wiring loom the coiled up nylon fuel piping from tank to pump just wouldn't sit where I need it to, so it's indoors in the warm stretched out on the floor with some items sat on it to hopefully to stop it going back into a coil, I'll find out in morning,.

I decided to use one of the Eberspacher part 29.2100.02.0060 tank filler tube pick up pipes, it's well though out & put together BUT  only complaint is there is absolutely no fitting instruction/rubber joiner part/jubilee clips to refer to, so as the fuel filler hose has to be cut to fit this item, its a guess as to how, which way up & how close to the tank stub pipe it has to be, without any fitting info I've destroyed my filler neck rubber pipe, but I have a new one in the post, just hope it gets here soon.  but I managed to figure out the pick up sits tight against the tank stub, with the long pipe going in the tank & downwards & the outlet to the pump facing towards the front of the vehicle, [also looking at the Td5 item, there is no fitting info with that either, pretty poor considering it's nearly £70 

So once the tank filler neck/rubber hose/tank/fuel pump are joined together & I fit the 5 & 20amp fuses, it'll be start up time & see what happens. 

I can add more photo's if requested.

 

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So almost finished was fitting the terminals onto the fuel pump wires one done 2nd one broke, so need to ring Kirknalls or Espar at Plymouth on Monday to get some more terminals, then I can get the pump electrically connected, fit the 2 fuses & switch the heater on so it can lift the fuel up to burner & get it operating. Everything else is connected & safely routed, Some photos - - - - - 

Control panel on centre console

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Connections for air intake, fuel feed & exhaust 

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Fuel pump right hand inside face of chassis 

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You can see the 2 wires & the broken terminal, can't connect until the broken terminal is replaced. 

Air intake location forward face of left outrigger under 2nd row floor

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Exhaust & silencer rear face of right outrigger under 2nd row floor

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Fuel pick up in tank filler. There are 3 versions 2 for 110 including Td5 & one for Td5 Discovery. 

 

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This is the fuel pick up part, top one of the 3, & a closer view, it fits in the tight next to the tank stub & the pipe goes in & downwards, it has 2 holes to pick up fuel, the Td5 version has a pick up hole in the very end face & a slot about 50mm further back from end of the pipe, 

https://eberspacherdirect.com/shop/eberspacher-fuel-kit-landrover-70mm/

 

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1 hour ago, western said:

Exhaust & silencer rear face of right outrigger under 2nd row floor

IMG_20210108_170043.jpg

I'll be interested to compare the noise of your heater with mine. We may need to share videos. I can't get used to the jet engine roar of the burner during the start-up / warm-up phase. It makes a tranquil early morning a little less tranquil. However heat is better than cold!

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