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Eberspächer advice


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A simpler way to prime them is just to connect the pump to a battery - and repeatedly connect/disconnect it.  Each cycle draws a little more fuel.  My fuel line is 6m before the pump and it only took a couple of minutes to prime that way.

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52 minutes ago, simonr said:

A simpler way to prime them is just to connect the pump to a battery - and repeatedly connect/disconnect it.  Each cycle draws a little more fuel.  My fuel line is 6m before the pump and it only took a couple of minutes to prime that way.

^ this, just tapping the wires together or using a small momentary switch is easy enough.

I had terrible problems with mine getting air in as the tiny pipes and rubber hoses can allow pinhole air leaks if you've got poor or wrong-sized clips on them or there's any perishing on the rubber hose.

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I had the same initially - then replaced all the hose clips with 'lemon' type hose clips which provide a better seal than tiny jubilee type clips.

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4 hours ago, simonr said:

I had the same initially - then replaced all the hose clips with 'lemon' type hose clips which provide a better seal than tiny jubilee type clips.

What's a lemon style clip?

I ordered a party-pack of tiny fuel pipe clips off eBlag and re-did it all with those.

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11 hours ago, western said:

Possibly these which need a fitting tool. Lemon clamp

Well done Ralph.  I just used a pair of side-cutters which are fine on smaller clips.  I have the proper tool, but I left it, locked-down at work.

They are also known as Double (or single) Ear clips - but I've always called them Lemon Clips!

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2 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:

Those seem to be standard fit on new cars these days so must be reasonably good.

Poor quality hose clamps are a pain in the backside so I may try some!

They are very good have been used for years on oxy acetylene pipes can stand decent pressure only issue is if you need to remove them they have to be cut and as they sink into the pipe your using them on it can damage said pipe quite easily. When I've removed them in the past I cut diagonally across the width of ring regards Stephen

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14 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

They are very good have been used for years on oxy acetylene pipes can stand decent pressure only issue is if you need to remove them they have to be cut and as they sink into the pipe your using them on it can damage said pipe quite easily. When I've removed them in the past I cut diagonally across the width of ring regards Stephen

I've found it's usually possible to cut the ears off with a sharp pair of side-cutters.  I've been using them for most things for maybe 10 years.  They are available in Stainless too.

Much more reliable than Jubilee type clips - which I now only use on things I know will need to be removed soon.  I only used the screw type on my fuel pump initially because they were supplied with the pump - but I should have known better!

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Glad it's in and working Ralph. The heater box is a tidy option and you will get used to the raised cubby position. It's hard to tell whether it's as noisy as mine is at start-up but the outside sound level doesn't seem too bad at all in those videos.Enjoy the warmth!

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Sounds similar to the Airtop in my series.

I’m seriously thinking of putting one in my 90 too now. The heater in my 90 is actually really good - but it gets cold quickly when the engine isn’t running and it’s slow to warm up. 

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On 1/17/2021 at 8:03 AM, Peaklander said:

Glad it's in and working Ralph. The heater box is a tidy option and you will get used to the raised cubby position. It's hard to tell whether it's as noisy as mine is at start-up but the outside sound level doesn't seem too bad at all in those videos. Enjoy the warmth!

Thanks Tim, sent you a PM to, 

I made a thicker foam cushion  on my cubby box lid a while ago, it might get reduced by in thickness by 50mm to give my left arm a bit more space otherwise I'm quite happy with the installation. Next time your down this way we can compare the noise. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had to double check part of the wiring yesterday, the reason was in the fitting info, I missed joining 2 wires in the main loom together these send the ambient temp signal to the control panel so it can displayed, rather than the 3 dashes --- which means temp signal is not available, so had to get that done & as I moved the wiring to control panel the 12v feed & earth wires pulled out of the 4 way plug which I hadn't crimped on very well, [not having the correct crimp tool]

Not being able to obtain a replacement locally with new pins, one option was ebay but the item would be coming from Germany & the postage was 10 quid more than the item cost, so binned that idea,  Instead I used a 3 way super-seal connector from a local vehicle electrical supplier,  so that got fitted this afternoon, the 2 other wires to get the ambient temp display were sorted as well, the wires at both ends of the 3 way connector were crimped & soldered to give me reliable joints, after a further test run of the heater everything is good, so when out on rallies or other events/days out my 110 will be very cosy. 

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